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Have to replace trans due to a tooth breaking off on a gear and pretty much destroying the “inner guts” of the trans to the point of not bein able to repair it.
Had a mechanic look at my car and he said something in my trans broke. Sounded like a tooth broke on the diff or the input shaft. Any suggestions on the cheapest route to go. I can’t fix this myself unfortunately…
I guess what I meant is that it sounds like a rotational clunking noise so in turn it sounds faster as the rotational speed of the wheels/axle goes faster. It doesn’t make noise as I’m speeding up, but when I push the clutch pedal in at a higher speed it sounds faster than if I was going slower and had my clutch pedal pushed in. I hope that makes better sense…?
And as far as the videos, I thank you, but I have watched those videos and all his other videos already, lol! That is why I think it is the throw-out bearing and the input shaft bearing from my own reacher on the Internet. I also bought the car used with 85k miles and it now has 110k. Idk if it is the clutch from the factory or not.
http://www.weapon-r.com/index.php?act=v … duct&id=48
That is the intake I was looking at but the vacuum hose is right after the throttle bodie and if I put that intake on after the MAF sensor then I don’t know what to do with the vacuum line on the aftermarket intake as the stock intake already has the vacuum line on it.
The below link is a picture of the engine(not mine) and to the right of the engine is the intake and you can see the vacuum hose that I previously talked about.http://www.nordstromsauto.com/carphotos … 11-300.jpg
http://www.weapon-r.com/index.php?act=v … duct&id=48
That is the intake I was looking at but the vacuum hose is right after the throttle bodie and if I put that intake on after the MAF sensor then I don’t know what to do with the vacuum line on the aftermarket intake as the stock intake already has the vacuum line on it.
The below link is a picture of the engine(not mine) and to the right of the engine is the intake and you can see the vacuum hose that I previously talked about.http://www.nordstromsauto.com/carphotos … 11-300.jpg
It was a faulty battery cable. It is bolted good to the battery.
Well the alignment makes since as what you said reminded me that when the cars tires were aligned last time the guy said that it was bent but he got it aligned to where the tires should be and it has been producing normal wear.
Well the car has all new struts/shocks and in the rear specifically when there is weight in the rear like with for example a couple passengers, then it makes a squeaky/bottoming out sound. That would be the best way that I could describe it without a video.
Ya the car runs perfectly with no problems. Just every once in awhile I will just have to crank it for a few seconds before it starts, but when it does start after the long cranking it runs perfect. Maybe the car is just being difficult lol!
I just did a test on the fuel pressure and it read 59psi exactly when just the fuel pump was on and the pressure did not decrease and when the car was running it read 52psi, again with no drop or gradual decrease. Any other suggestions on what it could be? Thanks for the video Eric, I have watched all your videos and they are very helpful!
I checked the FPR and the is no problem with it. I haven’t had a chance to check fuel pressure. I’ll keep all of ya posted.
the car has 105k and the PCV is serviceable. i have not checked how much oil i am loosing on a monthly basis. i would say close to 4 quarts every month and a half. i recently put an aftermarket intake on and when i was taking the stock one off i noticed oil close to the throttle body and a slight film on the inside of the throttle body. i personally havent seen smoke coming out of my exhaust when i have been driving. there is also no oil in the coolant, that was the first thing i checked. i have not seen any oil leaking from the valve covers.
killman-you are right about not having a PCV…i assumed the air/oil separator was a sort of PCV. i also said earlier that the valve cover was not leaking but i took a closer look and it is leaking. the timing cover is not leaking though. thanks for the info about the air/oil separator it will help a lot when i check it out, but like Eric said i will do the compression test first. oh and i do not have a low oil level light as it never comes on when i am low on oil so i check the oil once a week. i found this out when i first purchased the car and i took a sharp left hand turn and my oil pressure light came on until i was done turning.
it is a napa fuel pump. couldnt afford OEM pump at 450ish so i went with the napa for 317.
well so far the pump has not faulted again.
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