Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
update:
i drove the car for about 30 mins and measured the resistance and it was 230 ohms. both hot and cold resistances of this sensor are far from manufacturer’s specs.
then, while sensor disconnected, i connected resistors in its place and with a resistor of 100 ohms, my gauge was at 3/4 where the red zone starts and with 39 ohms, it was T max.
so, my conclusion is that the wiring and gauge and the whole system is good, but the coolant sensor is bad. it looks like they have a lifetime of a few years, and then their range becomes narrow (or they become less sensitive to temperature change).there is only one other probability, which is that, even though i purged the system and used the spill-free funnel and air valve, but the sensor lives in a bubble of air or steam and is not working correctly.
any opinions are appreciated
I have a new update…
the mechanic i sent the car to, who is known in my area for being honest and trust worthy, looks to be not as experienced and knowing as I expected him to be.
He called me at the second day that he had the car telling me that all my fluids are full and that i have a misfire that if i ignore would lead to gas/air mixture moving to the catalytic converter to burn there (these are all things i already told him about!!!!), but he knows now that it is two specific cylinders and since i replace plugs and wires a year ago and i have OEM ignition module, that he replaced the coils one by one with a new working coil with no positive result and that he will test the ignition modules.
he mentioned that there is no vacuum leak in my engine what so ever without mentioning what detection method he used!!!
Now, i understand that taking my ignition module out to test it is much easier physical work than taking my six plugs and wires on his behalf and will add to the bill, but shouldn’t he test plugs and wires and vacuum leaks first when there is only P0300??He finally told me that he is sure that it is not a gas problem but a spark one, so he assured me that whatever it is, that the bill will be much less than what we both expected.
Anyone ever gone through this with a word of advice?
thank you nightflyr for the reply. I was worried too about the smell, i just think that it’s either a spark somewhere outside of the engine or that due to misfire, the burning happened in the catalytic converter for a short period of time before i turned it off.
I have an update. yesterday, i started it and was idle for about 10 mins and the light kept off, but this morning after starting this thread, i decided to take the risk and drive it. i drove for less than a mile and the vibration and blinking service light started again. i turned around and left it home.
Now i’m sure that i’ll be towing it to a good shop tomorrow morning because that is a little higher than my knowledge and capabilities and a little too much work when i have two jobs and one car.
i will update here.
It just make me feel so much better if i get guesses and analyses here about the range of possibilities (worst case?) so that i will be mentally prepared to talk to the mechanic tomorrow.
I did a long study for two days online and watched videos and stuff….and came to the conclusion that it shouldn’t be cylinder specific problems (plugs, wires, injectors, ..etc.) but more like a vacuum leak or egr valve or fuel pressure