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I just did a smoke test by connecting my smoke machine to the throttle body and there was no smoke coming from the manifold or anywhere under the hood that i could see
next thing will be to run the engine in a can of carb cleaner to clean the nozzles
This place looks like totally dead or some kind of deserted town in some future dystopia scifi movie or something, but I’ll add an update just in case someone may use the experience or someone may like the challenge.
I did a water spray test in all the common places that I’d expect a vacuum leak but did not see a change.
O2 sensor reading (both upstream and downstream) seem to be normal with a little bit of lean indication.
Pinching the brake booster vacuum hose lowers the short term trim to normal (eliminates the lean condition) and causes the the long term to eventually go down. Keeping the brake pedal down to the floor has the same effect of fixing the lean condition on the fuel trims. Blocking the booster’s vacuum hose, on the other hand stalls the engine!!!
Is that normal?
Does it indicate a vacuum leak inside the booster or elsewhere?
I took the check valve between the booster and its vacuum hose out and it feels like it works (sucking and/or blowing in one direction).
I held the brake pedal down for about a minute while the engine was running and then shut it off and felt that the pedal was pushing my foot up with a moderate force.I personally experimented with that for a long time many years ago when i was a field tech and have to leave cars in long term airport lots. More than two weeks will kill a car battery unless a miracle happens. These days they sell little solar squares that you can just throw at your dash (if you pick a spot where there is sun) that works as a trickle charger when connected to a lighter outlet. Otherwise, carry a fully charged lithium battery pack (10-20 Ah’a) with a USB to about 12.5 volt converter to feed the car battery with a few milliamp’s continuously and keep the car topped off until you come back to use it again
do you have any “data logger” device in your arsenal or any multimeter that records voltage over hours (you can make one with an arduino and an sd card shield) or at least a very long wire that goes from the car to where you spend most of your time inside to keep an eye? you can use the security camera app in an old phone or a baby monitoring camera and keep the Ammeter under the hood as long as you can monitor every 20 mins or so. When you leave the car, it does not go to “sleep” instantly, but after a few minutes. In addition to that, without a continuously connected trickle charger (or one of those little solar ones that you leave on the dash), batteries do discharge at a few milliamps all the time
i’m not sure why everyone who commented here is bragging about how it rains cash where they are from. This vid shows that there is no need to remove the whole control arm to replace a bushing saving around $50 difference in price, in addition to labor time (and hence $$$) added to about $50-100 in alignment https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bo_CPLrRlmY. I think replacing the whole arm and doing alignment is a good thing when two or more of the 4 things look bad (ball joint, two bushings, and the metal of the arm) and/or the DIYer makes cash out of thin air!
so, what you’re saying, is that, the bags may inflate on their own while you’re driving, simply if an electrical contact becomes dirty/loose over the years? and that’s why you’re terrified all that much from disconnecting that under-seat yellow connector to clean the contacts?
I doubt that the logic in the software for that is this trivialthank you for the answers.
I never mentioned 1000-1500 miles, but i mostly get to 55% after driving 3500-5000 miles.I don’t have any smoke out of the ordinary coming out of the exhaust to assume oil burning and i left cardboard pieces under engine overnight several times with negative “obvious” leaking clues. I don’t really care about the environment and I voted for Trumps in the last few elections, and I totally believe that my money is more important than the planet or the milky way.
what would you do if you were in my shoes?
Is there a reasonably priced diagnosis? or does it cost close to replacing? (a nice experienced mechanic gave me a price of replacing with a reman’ed engine for $2600)[quote=”Evil-i” post=180887]No sense in doing the job half way. Replace everything the kit comes with.[/quote]
I’m replacing it as soon as i get it. That’s not the point now.
Did you, personally replace it without an obvious problem? did you feel a difference afterward? what difference? can you describe please?
[quote=”Packard93″ post=180864]Pcv is recommended replacement it can cause issues with emmission parts make them worn and if they go bad your over heating issues.[/quote]
when the PCV valve is bad (clogged, stuck, ….) a P0172 or other lean code is usually set. I don’t have any code but I never replaced it and now 135K. Do I really have to? and will it make a difference in oil consumption, power, or drive-ability?
Did anyone do this simple job and felt a change in motor operation?
I already ordered it and will receive it in a couple of days, but i’m baffled by the fact that there isn’t much info or videos out there about this thing (it feels like classified info as compared with other jobs that are not as easy) and it looks like the people who replaced it, only did so because the had a code set or some serious problem and that’s why i started this thread, but haven’t got a convincing reply yet
[quote=”jonsey1886″ post=180807]The PCV valve is a wear item just like a thermostat, timing belt, accessory drive belt, etc. Yes it should be replaced and I would strongly suggest getting the kit so that the entire assembly is changed out.[/quote]
I ordered the “kit” which basically has the spring and o-rings and the black plastic hand looking casing that I will probably not use.
What could go wrong with the MAP sensor that is right over it? I saw warnings in other places. Did anyone here do it and can give some advice if it’s worth it?
haha
they still use that magical spray today.
I was thinking about brake cleaner or something stronger, but yet not bad to the injector.I still think that there should be some DYI something to do to them before thinking about replacing and $25 eah is not cheap if you think about replacing all.
I’ll google EMS to see if it’s practical for one person with limited resources and money to make something. Thanks for the tip.
thank you much for the video. I wasn’t asking about the cleaning chemical but the setup. gas surely do. The setup in both is pretty primitive and dangerous. I’m thinking about switching all injectors on and off at a high frequency using relays and a microcontroller circuit. I have everything laying around in my place. I do electronic designs like that for a living and the material cost pennies
BTW, did the dude swallow his tongue in the video? this is much clearer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg
Thank you for teaching me something. I would still have an argument or two. First, I use SEAFOAM quite often, and it really makes the engine run smoother. I can feel a difference (or it’s probably just the psychological effect of loosing $7 every time I buy a can).
The other is that fuels and the materials they use to make injectors’ orifices/nozzles didn’t change between the 1980’s and now, nor did they way a combustion engine work. So, what makes you think that carbon and other deposits don’t gradually build up and partially clog the injectors.Are there any symptoms for partially clogged injectors or partially leaking fuel pressure regulators that don’t set codes? like performance/milage, etc.