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Now I want to know the *exact* detergent that you used and what was the proportion and how long did you soak it in detergent. Post the picture of the bottle!
OEM converters are stupidly expensive and aftermarket ones barely work for few months before throwing the same code again at you. If the cleaning works and even if it needs to be done every 6 months, you are way ahead of the game financially.
The first couple of graphs look good. You want it to stay at high or low for a longer time. The last one seems to be switching constantly. That is not good. Can you check your I/M status now? If they have all gone to complete, the cleaning worked!
The first couple of graphs look good. You want it to stay at high or low for a longer time. The last one seems to be switching constantly. That is not good. Can you check your I/M status now? If they have all gone to complete, the cleaning worked!
Do you have enough braking power to lock up the wheels? Can leave black skid marks in the parking lot? If the answer is negative, ABS is not going to be activated. It is easy to check this at very low speed in deserted parking lot. It would be highly unlikely to have all four wheels locked up and ABS unit not recognizing.
Do you have enough braking power to lock up the wheels? Can leave black skid marks in the parking lot? If the answer is negative, ABS is not going to be activated. It is easy to check this at very low speed in deserted parking lot. It would be highly unlikely to have all four wheels locked up and ABS unit not recognizing.
Damn, looks like Scotty is on to something!!
If you can get your scanner to plot the rear O2 (post-cat) voltage, it should switch quite slowly at idle or even at load. It should stay at one place for few seconds before switching. If your scanner can plot two, then compare it against the front O2 (pre cat). The rear should be switching way slower than the front one. If that is how it is behaving, then you have fixed it!
Please tell us if that is the case.
Damn, looks like Scotty is on to something!!
If you can get your scanner to plot the rear O2 (post-cat) voltage, it should switch quite slowly at idle or even at load. It should stay at one place for few seconds before switching. If your scanner can plot two, then compare it against the front O2 (pre cat). The rear should be switching way slower than the front one. If that is how it is behaving, then you have fixed it!
Please tell us if that is the case.
Can you post the video of the new bulbs with better tint? When you showed it during the fog light video, the lights were on for a very short time and the true tint takes time until the bulb warms up.
I really want to install HID on the 99 Odyssey but I need to really see how the H4 reflector beam pattern looks like with 4300 tint. And yes, I am one of those guys who used to think all reflector HIDs are wrong.
Can you post the video of the new bulbs with better tint? When you showed it during the fog light video, the lights were on for a very short time and the true tint takes time until the bulb warms up.
I really want to install HID on the 99 Odyssey but I need to really see how the H4 reflector beam pattern looks like with 4300 tint. And yes, I am one of those guys who used to think all reflector HIDs are wrong.
Now that is the Eric I know and love 🙂
I think if you need a 12V, there are better choices than the one which I love and you hate. If you are going to select a tool, decide its intended usage first. Forget the voltage. Concentrate on its ergonomics, size, weight, balance, features and obviously important torque and staying power. Whether it is powered by 12V or 18V or 24V or a nuclear reactor is immaterial 🙂
You already conceded that with the 18V tool, the balance and the ergonomics had already taken the hit as compared to 12V tool. Just imagine if only the little brother had the 80% torque of the big boy! You would have been happy with it, right? You would have found it lot more useful and you could have retired your pneumatic air ratchet (NOT the gun) with this. Just think how easy it would to not have to drag the air hose inside the car or under the hood.
But this will be a personal decision. Some people may like the ergonomics of Bosch better than DeWalt. Nothing wrong with that. When it comes to personal likes or dislikes, you never have to justify it to anybody else.
Getting back to the topic, if you have the same criterion of replacing your air gun with the 18V DeWalt tool, I believe it fails miserably in fulfilling that requirement.
Now that is the Eric I know and love 🙂
I think if you need a 12V, there are better choices than the one which I love and you hate. If you are going to select a tool, decide its intended usage first. Forget the voltage. Concentrate on its ergonomics, size, weight, balance, features and obviously important torque and staying power. Whether it is powered by 12V or 18V or 24V or a nuclear reactor is immaterial 🙂
You already conceded that with the 18V tool, the balance and the ergonomics had already taken the hit as compared to 12V tool. Just imagine if only the little brother had the 80% torque of the big boy! You would have been happy with it, right? You would have found it lot more useful and you could have retired your pneumatic air ratchet (NOT the gun) with this. Just think how easy it would to not have to drag the air hose inside the car or under the hood.
But this will be a personal decision. Some people may like the ergonomics of Bosch better than DeWalt. Nothing wrong with that. When it comes to personal likes or dislikes, you never have to justify it to anybody else.
Getting back to the topic, if you have the same criterion of replacing your air gun with the 18V DeWalt tool, I believe it fails miserably in fulfilling that requirement.
The bottom line:- You got out of fire to land in the frying pan 🙂
Seriously, this is NOT the tool that you will be happy with. The specification on this is 120 ft-lb which is not enough for the pneumatic tool replacement. The 12V was rated at 96 ft-lb. As you say “dozen vs 14”, there is not much difference between their capabilities.
BUT WHAT ABOUT ABOUT ABLE TO REMOVE ALL THOSE BOLTS WITH THIS GUN?
You know my reply to that already 🙂
I don’t have broken head around but I could run that test easily with 12V and I might just be able to take off freshly torqued 5 lug bolts to 80 although I am sure that by the last one it will be struggling. The 12V came with 1.5Ah battery whereas the 18V came with 3.0Ah battery,. The later has double the stamina. But in terms of the raw torque, it is only 20% more which is not a whole lot.
Have you already returned the 12V tool?
The bottom line:- You got out of fire to land in the frying pan 🙂
Seriously, this is NOT the tool that you will be happy with. The specification on this is 120 ft-lb which is not enough for the pneumatic tool replacement. The 12V was rated at 96 ft-lb. As you say “dozen vs 14”, there is not much difference between their capabilities.
BUT WHAT ABOUT ABOUT ABLE TO REMOVE ALL THOSE BOLTS WITH THIS GUN?
You know my reply to that already 🙂
I don’t have broken head around but I could run that test easily with 12V and I might just be able to take off freshly torqued 5 lug bolts to 80 although I am sure that by the last one it will be struggling. The 12V came with 1.5Ah battery whereas the 18V came with 3.0Ah battery,. The later has double the stamina. But in terms of the raw torque, it is only 20% more which is not a whole lot.
Have you already returned the 12V tool?