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Same thing happened to me when I did my valve covers. Took a good hour of driving to get the smell completely gone. And still sometimes when sitting at a light or a drive-thru, the manifolds would heat up more, also heating up the heat shields above them, causing a little more to be burned off. I used brake cleaner to clean up the manifolds after the replacement so I didn’t get a whole lot of smoke. It made it really easy to check for new leaks since the manifolds were bone dry after the brake cleaner.
Same thing happened to me when I did my valve covers. Took a good hour of driving to get the smell completely gone. And still sometimes when sitting at a light or a drive-thru, the manifolds would heat up more, also heating up the heat shields above them, causing a little more to be burned off. I used brake cleaner to clean up the manifolds after the replacement so I didn’t get a whole lot of smoke. It made it really easy to check for new leaks since the manifolds were bone dry after the brake cleaner.
I agree with the above. This may look like rust, but is not.
I agree with the above. This may look like rust, but is not.
Oh alright, that’s what I had in mind about how it wears. My fluid looks pretty nice as it sits at 109,000, so it must have been changed at least once so far in its life. Their service interval is 50-100k, so I believe I’m not very far overdue. Hopefully that puts me in the range of more than likely yielding positive results.
A friend of mine had a Monte Carlo, with what I believe is the same trans as mine, and he just got his fluid changed or flushed, not sure yet. It was probably the first time because the fluid was dark before. Now he says it accelerates weird. He doesn’t call it slipping, but jerky. I’m assuming he means from initial takeoff, all the way to the point where it shifts into 2nd. I think he caused a failure in the not too distant future.
But in comparison to my situation, I’m fairly confident still, I’m yet to find someone in my situation (clean fluid, not totally overdue) and had it fail afterwards. My cousin has done hundreds of trans flushes over the years, and agrees.Oh alright, that’s what I had in mind about how it wears. My fluid looks pretty nice as it sits at 109,000, so it must have been changed at least once so far in its life. Their service interval is 50-100k, so I believe I’m not very far overdue. Hopefully that puts me in the range of more than likely yielding positive results.
A friend of mine had a Monte Carlo, with what I believe is the same trans as mine, and he just got his fluid changed or flushed, not sure yet. It was probably the first time because the fluid was dark before. Now he says it accelerates weird. He doesn’t call it slipping, but jerky. I’m assuming he means from initial takeoff, all the way to the point where it shifts into 2nd. I think he caused a failure in the not too distant future.
But in comparison to my situation, I’m fairly confident still, I’m yet to find someone in my situation (clean fluid, not totally overdue) and had it fail afterwards. My cousin has done hundreds of trans flushes over the years, and agrees.Ok. Well first I was planning on a pan drop oil/filter change, I don’t believe in flushes. I know you can never know the outcome for sure, there are no guarantees, but I’m looking for trends because people change trans fluid past 100,000 miles ALL the time. I have personally seen good, and bad results, even up to 150,000 miles. Also so you’re saying that the transmission always wears out the same by 100,000 miles, no matter what, even if it was changed at the proper intervals? and that the amount of wear cannot be related to the visual condition of the fluid?
Ok. Well first I was planning on a pan drop oil/filter change, I don’t believe in flushes. I know you can never know the outcome for sure, there are no guarantees, but I’m looking for trends because people change trans fluid past 100,000 miles ALL the time. I have personally seen good, and bad results, even up to 150,000 miles. Also so you’re saying that the transmission always wears out the same by 100,000 miles, no matter what, even if it was changed at the proper intervals? and that the amount of wear cannot be related to the visual condition of the fluid?
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeeq-MRxCzs[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeeq-MRxCzs[/video]
If an injector has an open circuit, the solenoid either has a fault, or the connector/wires came off. Check to make sure that injector 6 is plugged in, and that the wires are in good shape. They are thin wires so don’t bend them much.
Here’s a picture of the wires/connector from when I did my valve cover gaskets:
If an injector has an open circuit, the solenoid either has a fault, or the connector/wires came off. Check to make sure that injector 6 is plugged in, and that the wires are in good shape. They are thin wires so don’t bend them much.
Here’s a picture of the wires/connector from when I did my valve cover gaskets:
What do you mean when you said they will not come on? I would find out the temperature they’re supposed to come on, then test that out. I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix. I got it in the fall so I haven’t had a chance to see if the cooling fans work. But I did try the A/C, and the fans did not come on in the minute or so that I let the A/C run, So I don’t know if they always will.
What do you mean when you said they will not come on? I would find out the temperature they’re supposed to come on, then test that out. I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix. I got it in the fall so I haven’t had a chance to see if the cooling fans work. But I did try the A/C, and the fans did not come on in the minute or so that I let the A/C run, So I don’t know if they always will.
I can’t be sure that a bad ground is causing the problem, but here are some diagrams to show where to look for grounds if you need it. It looks like it’s under 31/7, and the second attachment shows it’s near the drivers side by the frame.
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