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the only code its showing is the po302 misfire cylinder 2… i didn’t clear the code yet cause i can’t get it to start and if its anything like my hondas ecu it won’t throw any codes till it actually fires on a cylinder a couple times….i played hell doing it with mine
were working on getting a compression tester to test it
i haven’t crawled under the car but its not leaking oil from anywhere (no oil spots anywhere) so i doubt the crank case broke apart……..that would suck through big time i feel bad for that person that happened too.
i finally got it too run……it was the coolant sensor, after i cleaned the spark plugs it fired right up……..its got a hunting idle but a coolant bleed should help that hopefully, i just wanted to thank everyone that tried to help and hopefully help someone else that might have this problem
no i took it off so i had easier access to everything…everything was on it when it was running (airbox air filter etc)
just so you have more info the cars bone stock other than an aftermarket manifold the guy i bought it off of put on because the original cracked. not sure if he replaced the o2 sensor or just put the old one in it and he replaced the plugs and wires with NGK wires and plugs
only stuff i have replaced is
Cylinder Head with a rebuilt one (gaskets and seals) (engine crashed about a year ago when the timing belt broke at idle while at a redlight, i have another post on here on about that whole thing, no piston damage i replaced the head just to be on the safe side) fully tuned valves after….timing belt, pulley, water pump
air filter
changed oil and filter
distributor (replaced trying to fix this problem…didn’t help at all)when i did all that it ran like a new car…up until friday morning when this all happened
i finally got it to throw a couple codes……..po141 and po118….from what i can find that’s the coolant temp sensor and the o2 sensor would those cause this issue with not starting?
i got the car to run on just cylinder 3 for about 20-30 seconds at full throttle and it seemed like it wanted to keep going when i let off the throttle. it tried but died out, seemed like it was trying to idle with just that one firing….. but that’s how i got the codes….but no check engine light i still think the bulb is burnt out….i can’t get to the plug for the crank sensor to run a test on it , it’s up underneath the intake manifold and i can’t get my hand in there to get the plug off without pulling the intake off and out of the way.
but i did notice something else, there is a puddle of oil in the intake down past the butterfly valve and it looks like there is a film of oil all over the inside and on the bottom of the valve……any idea what that is?
i got it to run for a few seconds, was firing on only one cylinder (number 3 i think) with the throttle held open all the way it died out if i let go.
tried pulling codes like the video but my check engine light is either blown or it just don’t work… so i can’t get the flashes
long shot but would a crank sensor cause this issue?….. one of my friends called and said he had a similar issue with a Neon not running at all like this and it was the crank sensor…could that be causing a problem? how could i test it
I have a brand new distributer. And i have good spark going to the plugs. Found that article earlier but thanks.
No never had a check engine light come on since I had the car….. I think the bulb is dead. I cant check the codes i don’t have a scanner…..how do I check the distributer plug?
i checked the fuel right after the filter going into the intake (did it like eric showed in his dangerous test video…it sprayed everywhere on the cardboard i covered the engine with) it’s good gas and im getting gas to the cylinders the plugs are wet….
i tried starting fluid right in the intake doesn’t help anything….. tried a little and a good spray nothing helps ..
it tries to start when i crank it for a few seconds i’ll get a couple good pops then it just dies, i crank it a couple more times and it will pop and try to run and the engine will shake and sometimes i get a white poof out of the intake where the butterfly valve is……i can take a video too show everyone if it will help
Just checked pulled head cover to visually see cam gear line up with head at top of compression stroke on cylinder #1……everything is still lined up. And belt is good as well.. l not stretched at all.
I checked the line up… The distributer rotor lines up with #1 plug wire on compression stroke. …. What is an IAC problem?…. Its got a brand new distributer on it……