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1) Check the fuses first. If it still doesn’t work problem is likely in the switch.
2) Problem may be in the switch that selects which mirror you’re adjusting but you should measure the switch. Another likely possibility is that problem is in the wires going to mirror most likely in where they go into door.1) Check the fuses first. If it still doesn’t work problem is likely in the switch.
2) Problem may be in the switch that selects which mirror you’re adjusting but you should measure the switch. Another likely possibility is that problem is in the wires going to mirror most likely in where they go into door.If this happens without you touching brake pedal its master cylinder. But it may only be adjusted incorrectly. There should be about (if I remember correctly) 3mm or 1/8” of slack before brake pedal starts to push in master cylinder.
If this happens without you touching brake pedal its master cylinder. But it may only be adjusted incorrectly. There should be about (if I remember correctly) 3mm or 1/8” of slack before brake pedal starts to push in master cylinder.
Clean all of those with brake cleaner or degreaser or similar. Fluid on front diff may be from it or engine oil. Diff fluid normally will have very distinctive smell.
Clean all of those with brake cleaner or degreaser or similar. Fluid on front diff may be from it or engine oil. Diff fluid normally will have very distinctive smell.
ECUs used to be designed so that every input could be grounded or connected to battery positive and every output device could short and still ECU was fine. If ECU can be damaged this easy and will do so much damage it almost feels like it’s done on purpose…
But keep us posted.
ECUs used to be designed so that every input could be grounded or connected to battery positive and every output device could short and still ECU was fine. If ECU can be damaged this easy and will do so much damage it almost feels like it’s done on purpose…
But keep us posted.
Looking from Honda manual idle adjustment should be with no load and IAC disconnected 625+-50rpm. Then with IAC connected no load ECU will keep it at 750+-50rpm (USA) or 800+-50rpm (Canada).
Looking from Honda manual idle adjustment should be with no load and IAC disconnected 625+-50rpm. Then with IAC connected no load ECU will keep it at 750+-50rpm (USA) or 800+-50rpm (Canada).
Exhaust manifold gasket leaking is quite common. Leak in there may make engine running lean and that makes it wear more. Leak will also reduce power and worsen your mpg.
CV-boot may be new and grease just leftover. Or it may be that clamp isn’t tight enough in that case it maybe ok just to tighten (renew) it. Or boot maybe wrong or installed incorrectly. Or clamp maybe too tight and boot is broken under it. But I would first clean it and see that does it actually leak. If it does I would only replace boot or tighten or replace clamp since there is no contaminants inside yet.
Exhaust manifold gasket leaking is quite common. Leak in there may make engine running lean and that makes it wear more. Leak will also reduce power and worsen your mpg.
CV-boot may be new and grease just leftover. Or it may be that clamp isn’t tight enough in that case it maybe ok just to tighten (renew) it. Or boot maybe wrong or installed incorrectly. Or clamp maybe too tight and boot is broken under it. But I would first clean it and see that does it actually leak. If it does I would only replace boot or tighten or replace clamp since there is no contaminants inside yet.
Changing to synthetic oil will only reduce oil consumption if oil consumption is due to oil quality dropping.
If problem is blocked piston oil return holes in theory you can clean them with engine flush or pouring diesel or solvent into cylinders and letting it sit. But it may be too late depending one when it started.