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Two times I have looked at similar sounding problem. First was Nissan with ga14s it sounded like bottom end sound if you used torque. RPMs didn’t matter. Problem ended up being one small broken vacuum line. No idea what that vacuum line was for. Next was Toyota with 4a it sounded more like top end sound but only at higher RPMs and using torque. Problem ended up being exhaust manifold gasket.
Normally between 200tkm or 125tmiles to 300tkm or 190tmiles you have to replace shocks and wheel bearing and something else. But wheel bearing is the thing that is real problem course it might need replacing quickly after detecting problem and it may not be possible to do it yourself.
Normally between 200tkm or 125tmiles to 300tkm or 190tmiles you have to replace shocks and wheel bearing and something else. But wheel bearing is the thing that is real problem course it might need replacing quickly after detecting problem and it may not be possible to do it yourself.
Cats will always seem to work better just by heating them with engine. By driving the car with high revs and revving it standing still. It burns them a bit cleaner and gets the catalyst to work better witch then heats them even more.
Cats will always seem to work better just by heating them with engine. By driving the car with high revs and revving it standing still. It burns them a bit cleaner and gets the catalyst to work better witch then heats them even more.
Don’t buy used wear items. Don’t buy used parts that are known problems in this type of car. Don’t buy used parts that are too hard to chance unless you’re absolutely sure of them. Some parts you can check and/or make better before installing them.
Don’t buy used wear items. Don’t buy used parts that are known problems in this type of car. Don’t buy used parts that are too hard to chance unless you’re absolutely sure of them. Some parts you can check and/or make better before installing them.
I always at least think of fixing part rather than replacing it. I do plastic welding. I have repaired many types of electronic units, rebuild voltage controllers and wiper motors, fixed abs sensors, head units, factory amplifiers, and a lot more. In some electronic units it might even be cheaper and better to make new one yourself.
I always at least think of fixing part rather than replacing it. I do plastic welding. I have repaired many types of electronic units, rebuild voltage controllers and wiper motors, fixed abs sensors, head units, factory amplifiers, and a lot more. In some electronic units it might even be cheaper and better to make new one yourself.
[quote=”TheXDS” post=75715]We did some testing to the pedal, and we found out that having it half depressed is just the same as having it fully depressed, and then just moving it a little bit, makes the car stall. Is there some way to adjust that?[/quote]
Sorry but I can’t quite understand what’s the problem. Clutch pedal normally has its slipping area in the center and its normally only small portion of pedal movement.
Test the clutch master cylinder by putting on handbrake (engine idling) pressing clutch pedal to floor (car in 5th gear). Then lift clutch pedal a little then pressing it back down then lifting it little repeat this at least 20 times. If there is something wrong with clutch master cylinder each time you do this less you can lift pedal and finally car just stalls.
I did fix one Kia with hard to use clutch by replacing clutch master cylinder. And in one Toyota problem was firs hard to use clutch and then clutch master broke completely.[quote=”TheXDS” post=75715]We did some testing to the pedal, and we found out that having it half depressed is just the same as having it fully depressed, and then just moving it a little bit, makes the car stall. Is there some way to adjust that?[/quote]
Sorry but I can’t quite understand what’s the problem. Clutch pedal normally has its slipping area in the center and its normally only small portion of pedal movement.
Test the clutch master cylinder by putting on handbrake (engine idling) pressing clutch pedal to floor (car in 5th gear). Then lift clutch pedal a little then pressing it back down then lifting it little repeat this at least 20 times. If there is something wrong with clutch master cylinder each time you do this less you can lift pedal and finally car just stalls.
I did fix one Kia with hard to use clutch by replacing clutch master cylinder. And in one Toyota problem was firs hard to use clutch and then clutch master broke completely.I don’t know what mileage to expect with that kind of truck in that kind of driving.
Firs make sure that there isn’t anything that is faulty and is causing higher fuel consumption.
Only modifications worth doing to vehicle for fuel economy are instrumentation, aerodynamics, weight, and gearing.
-Instrumentation helps you drive more economically.
-Aerodynamic mods that are effective are noticeable and/or make it harder to use, maybe not including grill block, small air damn, or aerodynamic tunnel cover http://media.popularmechanics.com/images/truck-bed-cap-470-0608.jpg normal tunnel covers don’t work for aerodynamics.
-Weight can’t normally be taken down from what it was from factory without making it less useful.
-Chancing gearing is normally too costly, but maybe it can be done cheaply enough with those old types of rear ends. It will make your speedometer incorrect. EDIT:Its 4×4 so forget it.
-Don’t install bigger wheels to it they will increase fuel consumption![quote=”Raistian77″ post=75660]That’s why I have two, a old Toyota Corolla to do the general running around and the truck for taking parts to get machined or picking parts up.[/quote]
How much does it take just to own a car? Like for taxes and insurances and that kind of stuff.I don’t know what mileage to expect with that kind of truck in that kind of driving.
Firs make sure that there isn’t anything that is faulty and is causing higher fuel consumption.
Only modifications worth doing to vehicle for fuel economy are instrumentation, aerodynamics, weight, and gearing.
-Instrumentation helps you drive more economically.
-Aerodynamic mods that are effective are noticeable and/or make it harder to use, maybe not including grill block, small air damn, or aerodynamic tunnel cover http://media.popularmechanics.com/images/truck-bed-cap-470-0608.jpg normal tunnel covers don’t work for aerodynamics.
-Weight can’t normally be taken down from what it was from factory without making it less useful.
-Chancing gearing is normally too costly, but maybe it can be done cheaply enough with those old types of rear ends. It will make your speedometer incorrect. EDIT:Its 4×4 so forget it.
-Don’t install bigger wheels to it they will increase fuel consumption![quote=”Raistian77″ post=75660]That’s why I have two, a old Toyota Corolla to do the general running around and the truck for taking parts to get machined or picking parts up.[/quote]
How much does it take just to own a car? Like for taxes and insurances and that kind of stuff.[quote=”DaCoder” post=74932]Yeah, I got to look under the hood of the Audi, and behind that little “Lexus” plate on top, is the most confusing engineering I have seen yet! I wouldn’t even know where the water pump is on that thing.[/quote]
If you talk about a4, a6 or a8, just take front carrier little bit forward, or turn it sideways, or take it off completely and you have very good access.
[quote=”DaCoder” post=74932]Yeah, I got to look under the hood of the Audi, and behind that little “Lexus” plate on top, is the most confusing engineering I have seen yet! I wouldn’t even know where the water pump is on that thing.[/quote]
If you talk about a4, a6 or a8, just take front carrier little bit forward, or turn it sideways, or take it off completely and you have very good access.
