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I maybe have had something like 75% success rate with cleaning IAC about half of them even without removing IAC and just to put cleaner in and through IAC. You probably have done them more but still cleaning it cost next to nothing so I think peoples should try it before replacing.
To OP you probably just have to replace it. If there wasn’t lubricant in it when it was new you shouldn’t put lubricant in so if you can open it and there has been lubricant in it then you can lubricate it but don’t use silicone.
[quote=”Texarkana” post=91125]If need be I’ll run a fuel injection cleaner through the brake booster hose. [/quote]
Cleaner that is put into vacuum line doesn’t clean injectors. It only cleans intake manifold and valves. And maybe also little of combustion chamber and even less exhaust.
[quote=”Texarkana” post=91125]If need be I’ll run a fuel injection cleaner through the brake booster hose. [/quote]
Cleaner that is put into vacuum line doesn’t clean injectors. It only cleans intake manifold and valves. And maybe also little of combustion chamber and even less exhaust.
If something causes starter to engage when engine is running starter will over rew and overload its windings.
And things that can cause starter to engage when engine is running are:
-Starter itself (already replaced)
-Solenoid (already replaced?
-Starter relay(s) (already replaced)
-Ignition switch
-Flywheel/flexplate (depending on how engine is designed)
-Wiring (unlikely since you need two wires to touch)If something causes starter to engage when engine is running starter will over rew and overload its windings.
And things that can cause starter to engage when engine is running are:
-Starter itself (already replaced)
-Solenoid (already replaced?
-Starter relay(s) (already replaced)
-Ignition switch
-Flywheel/flexplate (depending on how engine is designed)
-Wiring (unlikely since you need two wires to touch)Another possibility is that you have bad ignition switch, starter relay or solenoid that causes starter to engage by itself. That can cause starters to fail. If exactly same thing happened with old starter relay and old solenoid then only thing left is ignition switch (or unlikely wiring) or flywheel/flexplate if that is possible with that engine.
Another possibility is that you have bad ignition switch, starter relay or solenoid that causes starter to engage by itself. That can cause starters to fail. If exactly same thing happened with old starter relay and old solenoid then only thing left is ignition switch (or unlikely wiring) or flywheel/flexplate if that is possible with that engine.
To really understand CAI we need to divide it into two things 1) colder intake air 2) less restriction on intake
1) This will make engine more efficient but only if you use power (you don’t have to use max power but close to it). With less power needed colder air is bad thing cause you engine will have more power so you will need less throttle so engine will be less efficient. So for steady feet cruising you would get better MPG from hot air intake system (that has its own disadvantages). Stock system is somewhat designed to work like that so that when you use less throttle air is going to be warmer than if you use more throttle.
2) This will only help if you use power (you don’t have to use max power but close to it). And there is slight change that this will cause engine to run lean on full (and close to full) throttle (if it’s not tuned). It will also make engine run leaner on lesser throttle values but effect will be smaller and actually good for economy.
And many CAI systems don’t work at all they may have both hotter air and more restrictive than stock system.To really understand CAI we need to divide it into two things 1) colder intake air 2) less restriction on intake
1) This will make engine more efficient but only if you use power (you don’t have to use max power but close to it). With less power needed colder air is bad thing cause you engine will have more power so you will need less throttle so engine will be less efficient. So for steady feet cruising you would get better MPG from hot air intake system (that has its own disadvantages). Stock system is somewhat designed to work like that so that when you use less throttle air is going to be warmer than if you use more throttle.
2) This will only help if you use power (you don’t have to use max power but close to it). And there is slight change that this will cause engine to run lean on full (and close to full) throttle (if it’s not tuned). It will also make engine run leaner on lesser throttle values but effect will be smaller and actually good for economy.
And many CAI systems don’t work at all they may have both hotter air and more restrictive than stock system.1. No. Unleash you push throttle so much that ECU goes to open loop or to full throttle. And even then cold air intake doesn’t lover intake temperature that much. And other times it hurts MPG. This is with naturally aspirated gas engine diesel or turbo is different but it’s unlikely that you get MPG gains with those either.
2. Yes. Traditional fan takes engine power always. Electric fan only when needed. But MPG gain is going to be very small.
3. Yes. But it may wear everything faster and gains are small.
1. No. Unleash you push throttle so much that ECU goes to open loop or to full throttle. And even then cold air intake doesn’t lover intake temperature that much. And other times it hurts MPG. This is with naturally aspirated gas engine diesel or turbo is different but it’s unlikely that you get MPG gains with those either.
2. Yes. Traditional fan takes engine power always. Electric fan only when needed. But MPG gain is going to be very small.
3. Yes. But it may wear everything faster and gains are small.
Maybe this could be power delivery issue? Check airbag related fuses and make sure they have good contact.
Maybe this could be power delivery issue? Check airbag related fuses and make sure they have good contact.
No automatic transmission (or anything with wet clutch) can be sealed for life… So if you want it to work more than 200tkm or 120t miles you should replace fluid. Those numbers are from Audi tiptronic transmissions where you can change transmission fluid even if dealer tells you that it isn’t possible.
No automatic transmission (or anything with wet clutch) can be sealed for life… So if you want it to work more than 200tkm or 120t miles you should replace fluid. Those numbers are from Audi tiptronic transmissions where you can change transmission fluid even if dealer tells you that it isn’t possible.