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So I finally got my code reader in and want some advice from someone who has some experience. I cleared the codes first off because I had unplugged multiple sensor to see if any of them made a difference in how the engine idled. Car would not even start. Had to go unplug the tps sensor to get it to start. Codes I got were PO123 and PO108. Going to take of the tps sensor and clean it and see if that resolves my problem with that code. However for the MAP sensor code I was wondering if it is possible to clean one of those? Pretty sure the sensor is shorted out of something since it is located right next to where my first issue is that i mentioned in my first post. Unintentionally spraying a sensor with a bunch of water will do that I guess.
So I finally got my code reader in and want some advice from someone who has some experience. I cleared the codes first off because I had unplugged multiple sensor to see if any of them made a difference in how the engine idled. Car would not even start. Had to go unplug the tps sensor to get it to start. Codes I got were PO123 and PO108. Going to take of the tps sensor and clean it and see if that resolves my problem with that code. However for the MAP sensor code I was wondering if it is possible to clean one of those? Pretty sure the sensor is shorted out of something since it is located right next to where my first issue is that i mentioned in my first post. Unintentionally spraying a sensor with a bunch of water will do that I guess.
Finally was able to replace the spark plugs. Back three were complete suck to get to and i’m covered in fiberglass now but the job is done.
I can safely say with almost 100% certainty the issue that is causing my problems is a misfire. Even after replacing the plugs it’s almost as if it is worse now that I have plugs that are actually in good shape. The old plugs looked like they had never been replaced. What seems to be happening is while at idle (700ish rpm) the car will misfire. Sometimes the car recovers and sometimes I guess it might misfire multiple times in a row and that is when the car stalls. While driving it seems to misfire a lot less.
I ended up running some seafoam through a vacuum line to see it would help my idle issue while in park. It was getting up to 1500 rpms for some reason. They seemed to help a bit. Idle around 1100 now so I might give it another go and see if it improves even more. Pretty sure that is my IAC which I can not seem to get off since it has a striped t20 screw. I can get it out half way then it refuses to budge at all. I can’t seem to find the exact measurements on the screw to get a replacement for it.
So I wanted to ask what else can i change to try and get rid of this misfire issue? I did not change out the boots when i did the plugs so that is next on my list. I still have about a week before i get my code reader in. Thanks in advance!
Finally was able to replace the spark plugs. Back three were complete suck to get to and i’m covered in fiberglass now but the job is done.
I can safely say with almost 100% certainty the issue that is causing my problems is a misfire. Even after replacing the plugs it’s almost as if it is worse now that I have plugs that are actually in good shape. The old plugs looked like they had never been replaced. What seems to be happening is while at idle (700ish rpm) the car will misfire. Sometimes the car recovers and sometimes I guess it might misfire multiple times in a row and that is when the car stalls. While driving it seems to misfire a lot less.
I ended up running some seafoam through a vacuum line to see it would help my idle issue while in park. It was getting up to 1500 rpms for some reason. They seemed to help a bit. Idle around 1100 now so I might give it another go and see if it improves even more. Pretty sure that is my IAC which I can not seem to get off since it has a striped t20 screw. I can get it out half way then it refuses to budge at all. I can’t seem to find the exact measurements on the screw to get a replacement for it.
So I wanted to ask what else can i change to try and get rid of this misfire issue? I did not change out the boots when i did the plugs so that is next on my list. I still have about a week before i get my code reader in. Thanks in advance!
So I did the spray bottle trick. Didn’t find any vacuum leaks. The spark plugs did look really old but for the most part did not look to bad. No major gunk or anything on them. One of the boots did have some white stuff in it. Got out what I could. Another thing that I forgot to include in the first post was that after the car has fully heated up when in park or neutral the rpms sit at 1500. Put the car in drive or any gear and it comes back down. Is that the IAC messing up? Could that cause my other issues as well?
So I did the spray bottle trick. Didn’t find any vacuum leaks. The spark plugs did look really old but for the most part did not look to bad. No major gunk or anything on them. One of the boots did have some white stuff in it. Got out what I could. Another thing that I forgot to include in the first post was that after the car has fully heated up when in park or neutral the rpms sit at 1500. Put the car in drive or any gear and it comes back down. Is that the IAC messing up? Could that cause my other issues as well?
Sadly they do not lend them out either. All they did was show me there small selection of scanners they had in stock the cheapest being just under $100.
I got the right extension I need to start pulling out the plugs. Will be able to check them tomorrow and see if I see any issues with them.
On another note. Is there a homemade spray I can make to substitute carb cleaner to help look for vacuum leaks?
Sadly they do not lend them out either. All they did was show me there small selection of scanners they had in stock the cheapest being just under $100.
I got the right extension I need to start pulling out the plugs. Will be able to check them tomorrow and see if I see any issues with them.
On another note. Is there a homemade spray I can make to substitute carb cleaner to help look for vacuum leaks?
Correct. The engine started over heating. I pulled over, let the car cool a bit and added some water. On the way home it started to overheat again so I pulled into a gas station so I could fully top off it off and she use the small water hose at one of those little air/water stations and poured water on the engine. After continuing home we were greeted with the check engine light.
As far as going to a autozone or any other car part retailer. I live in California where they have banned retail stores from being able to check your engine code. You have to be a licensed technician here which is just outrageous.
Correct. The engine started over heating. I pulled over, let the car cool a bit and added some water. On the way home it started to overheat again so I pulled into a gas station so I could fully top off it off and she use the small water hose at one of those little air/water stations and poured water on the engine. After continuing home we were greeted with the check engine light.
As far as going to a autozone or any other car part retailer. I live in California where they have banned retail stores from being able to check your engine code. You have to be a licensed technician here which is just outrageous.
Alright, I had my check engine light read and it came up as a generic egr code. Guy said he could look at it for me and try to find out what is causing the problem for 75 bucks which I don’t have atm.
Alright, I had my check engine light read and it came up as a generic egr code. Guy said he could look at it for me and try to find out what is causing the problem for 75 bucks which I don’t have atm.
I can’t get it checked atm, studying for a final. Will do tomorrow though and let you know what comes up. I really do hope it is just a vaccuum line.
I can’t get it checked atm, studying for a final. Will do tomorrow though and let you know what comes up. I really do hope it is just a vaccuum line.