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FIXED! It was a vacuum leak at the back of the plenum, against the firewall. A metal hose supporting bracket was pinched between the plenum and the intake when I bolted it back together. I found it by doing a smoke test. I had no idea a vacuum leak could cause idle issues that severe, to the point of being non-drivable. No more check engine light or trouble code either.
Driving the car to work today I could see that the original idle issue that prompted me to clean the throttle body and the idle air control valave is now gone. It is idling at about 750rpm, right where it should be.
FIXED! It was a vacuum leak at the back of the plenum, against the firewall. A metal hose supporting bracket was pinched between the plenum and the intake when I bolted it back together. I found it by doing a smoke test. I had no idea a vacuum leak could cause idle issues that severe, to the point of being non-drivable. No more check engine light or trouble code either.
Driving the car to work today I could see that the original idle issue that prompted me to clean the throttle body and the idle air control valave is now gone. It is idling at about 750rpm, right where it should be.
Now I’m even more confused by the P0113 trouble code related to the intake temperature sensor. There is voltage going to that sensor, and the sensor itself seems to be in working order after bench test.
Now I’m even more confused by the P0113 trouble code related to the intake temperature sensor. There is voltage going to that sensor, and the sensor itself seems to be in working order after bench test.
I should have taken better notes as I was checking things after this problem started. If I remember correctly, there was voltage to the intake temp sensor, but I’ll check it again. If there is not voltage to the intake temp sensor, would that mean an issue with the PCM? Maybe a blown fuse?
I should have taken better notes as I was checking things after this problem started. If I remember correctly, there was voltage to the intake temp sensor, but I’ll check it again. If there is not voltage to the intake temp sensor, would that mean an issue with the PCM? Maybe a blown fuse?
Just out of curiousity, I’m also wondering if you take walk-in customers, or do you only work on your friends and family’s cars, and do you also take referral customers. Seems like you are probably too busy to take on a full “client” base and still keep up with ETCG…
Just out of curiousity, I’m also wondering if you take walk-in customers, or do you only work on your friends and family’s cars, and do you also take referral customers. Seems like you are probably too busy to take on a full “client” base and still keep up with ETCG…
2001 Honda Accord, 2.3L. One of the connectors is the 10 wire transmission range sensor and the other is for one of the clutch pressure solenoids. I expect that neither of these harnesses have ever been disconnected in the car’s 10 year life, but I’m[ still surprised and how much of a difficult time I’m having with it.
Thanks!
Also, how do I know what amp fuse to use with my jumper wire for each testing application? (speaking not only of the shift solenoids mentioned here, but also other types of automotive components)I noticed that my Haynes book shows how to check the shift and clutch solenoids for proper continuity and also for a consistent audible click when supplying 12 volts to it. Can someone tell me the proper steps to supplying power to a component? The book says to use a fused jumper wire, but my jumper wires are just plain wires with clips on both ends and no fuse. I don’t have a powerprobe or the money for one, so I’ll have to go with the old school method.
All I know is that I need to disconnect the writing harness to the component and disconnect the car battery. Other than that, I don’t know how to do the actual connection safely and how to make a FUSED jumper wire.
Thanks!!