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Thanks for sharing your video. I would recommend that you replace the rotor and brake line. You may have a partial collapse of the brake line causing it to not release. Under pressure you can still get a good gush of fluid coming out of the bleeder but it may not let it go backwards when the pressure is released. Something else you can try now that you have a new caliper is try to compress it. If it doesn’t move smoothly back into the housing you still have the same issue you had to begin with. It could be that your new caliper is defective but I would say it is more likely to be a brake hose having some kind of obstruction. If you dont replace the rotor you will go through those brake pads quickly and have uneven wear due to the scoring and warp. Turning the rotor will help if it isnt to far gone. But with the cost of turning you may come out cheaper to get a new rotor. Since you are going to have to take the rotor off one way or another I would put the caliper bracket on that it came with. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for sharing your video. I would recommend that you replace the rotor and brake line. You may have a partial collapse of the brake line causing it to not release. Under pressure you can still get a good gush of fluid coming out of the bleeder but it may not let it go backwards when the pressure is released. Something else you can try now that you have a new caliper is try to compress it. If it doesn’t move smoothly back into the housing you still have the same issue you had to begin with. It could be that your new caliper is defective but I would say it is more likely to be a brake hose having some kind of obstruction. If you dont replace the rotor you will go through those brake pads quickly and have uneven wear due to the scoring and warp. Turning the rotor will help if it isnt to far gone. But with the cost of turning you may come out cheaper to get a new rotor. Since you are going to have to take the rotor off one way or another I would put the caliper bracket on that it came with. Just my 2 cents.
Yes IMO that is ok. I think that you will get better performace out of a dual piston setup. I would think that your brakes should be dual piston already. If they are not I higly recommend changing both sides at the same time so braking preformace will be equal.
Yes IMO that is ok. I think that you will get better performace out of a dual piston setup. I would think that your brakes should be dual piston already. If they are not I higly recommend changing both sides at the same time so braking preformace will be equal.
If you are going to go through the hassle of changing the calipers go ahead and change the brake lines if they are showing signs of age (cracking or dry rot). They are not that expensive and only require a few mins extra. Make sure that you have some flare nut wrenches so you don’t strip the nut. When I changed my Calipers I changed both left and right sides. In Erics video mentioned in JTF’s post he stated you can replace just one if your budget doesn’t allow for both. I just have always replaced both.
If you are going to go through the hassle of changing the calipers go ahead and change the brake lines if they are showing signs of age (cracking or dry rot). They are not that expensive and only require a few mins extra. Make sure that you have some flare nut wrenches so you don’t strip the nut. When I changed my Calipers I changed both left and right sides. In Erics video mentioned in JTF’s post he stated you can replace just one if your budget doesn’t allow for both. I just have always replaced both.
I had a similar issue with a truck I used to have. It would act strangely after a fill up or on cold starts. It ended up being a bad fuel pump module. Nothing wrong with the pressure it had to do with the evap system. Somehow raw fuel was getting drawn up into the system and when the solenoid would open to dump what was supposed to be fumes it was dumping fuel into the intake system causing it to sputter and die. Once the engine got hot it would vaporize the fuel prior to it entering the cylinders.
Check your lines coming from the evap solenoid to see if it is wet. If they are you may have the same issue as I did.
I had a similar issue with a truck I used to have. It would act strangely after a fill up or on cold starts. It ended up being a bad fuel pump module. Nothing wrong with the pressure it had to do with the evap system. Somehow raw fuel was getting drawn up into the system and when the solenoid would open to dump what was supposed to be fumes it was dumping fuel into the intake system causing it to sputter and die. Once the engine got hot it would vaporize the fuel prior to it entering the cylinders.
Check your lines coming from the evap solenoid to see if it is wet. If they are you may have the same issue as I did.
When my avalon did that it was caused by a slipping belt when the engine was under load. I found that my belt was loose. Tigthend the belts and I was good to go.I would bet a shiney new nickle that you have a slipping belt. I also bet when the weather changes or it gets wet the blinking light will return. If it is more involved than that take it to your favorite mechaninc that can do that kind of work.
When my avalon did that it was caused by a slipping belt when the engine was under load. I found that my belt was loose. Tigthend the belts and I was good to go.I would bet a shiney new nickle that you have a slipping belt. I also bet when the weather changes or it gets wet the blinking light will return. If it is more involved than that take it to your favorite mechaninc that can do that kind of work.
Found this online. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371101349022?lpid=82
At least if you find the cut wiring you can replace the pigtail.
From the picture you can see the wire coloring that you need to find in the harness.