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Sounds like a bad clutch. Check out this article to see if it can help:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems?start=1#DiagnosingClutchProblemsSounds like a bad clutch. Check out this article to see if it can help:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems?start=1#DiagnosingClutchProblemsVery likely. Go out and spin just the bearing assembly and see if it spins freely. If it does then that is not likely the culprit. I bet that it will not spin freely. It may spin by hand with a grinding sound or not be smooth. When it gets hot it may lock up. If you dont want to spend the money on a new AC then see if there is an Alt belt routing option that leaves the AC out. I know my older Truck had this option as you could buy the truck without AC. Don’t know if yours has that option.
Very likely. Go out and spin just the bearing assembly and see if it spins freely. If it does then that is not likely the culprit. I bet that it will not spin freely. It may spin by hand with a grinding sound or not be smooth. When it gets hot it may lock up. If you dont want to spend the money on a new AC then see if there is an Alt belt routing option that leaves the AC out. I know my older Truck had this option as you could buy the truck without AC. Don’t know if yours has that option.
I had a 1987 Dodge K car that I converted to R134a and the original compressor ran fine for years until I sold the car. I converted in 96 and sold the car with Ice cold air in 2001. Not saying that is what you should do but just throwing that out there. My unit was empty. If your still has R12 in it, it will need to be recovered.
I had a 1987 Dodge K car that I converted to R134a and the original compressor ran fine for years until I sold the car. I converted in 96 and sold the car with Ice cold air in 2001. Not saying that is what you should do but just throwing that out there. My unit was empty. If your still has R12 in it, it will need to be recovered.
If that is the problem you are looking at about 100ish for the part depending on model and about 2 hr labor plus shop charges and etc. But I wouldn’t condemn the master cylinder yet check out Eric’s Videos. and this link:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problemsIf that is the problem you are looking at about 100ish for the part depending on model and about 2 hr labor plus shop charges and etc. But I wouldn’t condemn the master cylinder yet check out Eric’s Videos. and this link:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problemsSounds like the other caliper is going bad or is bad. Usually they are changed out in pairs. Eric says you can only change one if that is all your budget allows. When I do that level of work on Brakes I change out everything Pads, Rotors, hoses and calipers. Both sides. It may be over kill but I haven’t had any issues yet. Brakeing performance is dramatically improved.
Sounds like the other caliper is going bad or is bad. Usually they are changed out in pairs. Eric says you can only change one if that is all your budget allows. When I do that level of work on Brakes I change out everything Pads, Rotors, hoses and calipers. Both sides. It may be over kill but I haven’t had any issues yet. Brakeing performance is dramatically improved.
Thanks for posting. I really like when we see a resolution at the end. It makes it easier for someone looking for a solution to see it at the end of the thread.
Thanks for posting. I really like when we see a resolution at the end. It makes it easier for someone looking for a solution to see it at the end of the thread.