[david]

sorry, do not understand … “your mechanic” is person at walmart or separate?

they did cut corners tho by not overnighting your parts.
at least, they are paying for the timing belt change and new timing belt cover?
(well, might be actually a feature to have a hole or two in the timing belt cover
for easier monitoring of condition of timing belt.. but that’s for another day . . . )

as long as your timing belt did not snap, you should be ok since it is quite new. dont want little pieces of timing belt cover flying around in that enclosed space so hope they made sure there were no pieces or cleaned out the ones that were there.

if walmart broke it, then they should fix it and im pretty sure they will.
this does not attest the quality of the fix, but i don’t see walmart trying to stiff you on a situation where they are at fault – and you have paper from their own guy saying so.

2 cents.

[david]

sorry, do not understand … “your mechanic” is person at walmart or separate?

they did cut corners tho by not overnighting your parts.
at least, they are paying for the timing belt change and new timing belt cover?
(well, might be actually a feature to have a hole or two in the timing belt cover
for easier monitoring of condition of timing belt.. but that’s for another day . . . )

as long as your timing belt did not snap, you should be ok since it is quite new. dont want little pieces of timing belt cover flying around in that enclosed space so hope they made sure there were no pieces or cleaned out the ones that were there.

if walmart broke it, then they should fix it and im pretty sure they will.
this does not attest the quality of the fix, but i don’t see walmart trying to stiff you on a situation where they are at fault – and you have paper from their own guy saying so.

2 cents.

[david]

well, this is truly an interesting topic.
if this trend continues we gain efficiency in the “fixing” aspect …
as in … “no more fixing” and not “less broken stuff”.

if a couple of bands are busted in a non-serviceable transmission, and you change the transmission,
it is “fixed”, but what about waste .. what about all the good parts left?
how is that more efficient than someone who knows how to open up a transmission, and fix just the bands and keep the transmission going?
The waste from throwing away all the good stuff along with the bad stuff i would imagine is more inefficient than fixing up just the bad stuff.
But they (the analysts and the researchers) can’t/don’t want to quantify the waste aspect of it.

This is why “repair” (any type of repair, be it machine or man) takes experience and with that experience the repair-er becomes more efficient.
Patient feels pain in middle finger from over-use.
Doctor’s job is to remove patient’s pain (“fix” it).
Doctor amputates hand from patient.
Patient definitely no longer feels finger pain.
Heck, i aint’ no doctor and i thought of this way to fix the finger pain.
But, truly, is that efficient?
This is neither rhetorical nor contemplatory (this might not be real word), it’s a flat out NO.
It’s inefficient … but the solution was spot on. The pain from the patient’s middle finger was fixed.

I say, all that modular crap will cause too much waste and i’d like to see THAT part quantified.

End of the day, it’s just a way to “save” a buck on the manufacturer’s side while improving the consumer’s overall “experience” with the product. Can’t do this for free, gotta be a cost somewhere.

2 cents.

[david]

well, this is truly an interesting topic.
if this trend continues we gain efficiency in the “fixing” aspect …
as in … “no more fixing” and not “less broken stuff”.

if a couple of bands are busted in a non-serviceable transmission, and you change the transmission,
it is “fixed”, but what about waste .. what about all the good parts left?
how is that more efficient than someone who knows how to open up a transmission, and fix just the bands and keep the transmission going?
The waste from throwing away all the good stuff along with the bad stuff i would imagine is more inefficient than fixing up just the bad stuff.
But they (the analysts and the researchers) can’t/don’t want to quantify the waste aspect of it.

This is why “repair” (any type of repair, be it machine or man) takes experience and with that experience the repair-er becomes more efficient.
Patient feels pain in middle finger from over-use.
Doctor’s job is to remove patient’s pain (“fix” it).
Doctor amputates hand from patient.
Patient definitely no longer feels finger pain.
Heck, i aint’ no doctor and i thought of this way to fix the finger pain.
But, truly, is that efficient?
This is neither rhetorical nor contemplatory (this might not be real word), it’s a flat out NO.
It’s inefficient … but the solution was spot on. The pain from the patient’s middle finger was fixed.

I say, all that modular crap will cause too much waste and i’d like to see THAT part quantified.

End of the day, it’s just a way to “save” a buck on the manufacturer’s side while improving the consumer’s overall “experience” with the product. Can’t do this for free, gotta be a cost somewhere.

2 cents.

[david]

well, ok. i’ll just use more than one window opened.
it’s just i often do side searches when doing some main search.
something mentioned piques my interest, oh, yeah.. was gonna look at that the other day, etc etc.
it’s just weird having to “cd..” until the search button shows but i wanted to keep the spot i just found through the search.

anyways, all good. just this is only car forum i’ve been in that doesn’t have the search function “at the ready”.
not a big deal, thanks for your time/reply.

[david]

well, ok. i’ll just use more than one window opened.
it’s just i often do side searches when doing some main search.
something mentioned piques my interest, oh, yeah.. was gonna look at that the other day, etc etc.
it’s just weird having to “cd..” until the search button shows but i wanted to keep the spot i just found through the search.

anyways, all good. just this is only car forum i’ve been in that doesn’t have the search function “at the ready”.
not a big deal, thanks for your time/reply.

[david]

sup Eric,

but … but …
awww mane~!

serious side though:
not everyone can enjoy buying new.
so maybe many of your viewers (including me) are forced to buy a less-than-optimally-clean engine and clean it up after some necessary repairs have been made.
obviously, want to get the insides all good an’ running first (And ideally no more drips). But even if small drip, better than 100k miles of grime totally uncleaned. especially when working on the engine – and especially if have to work underneath … all safety goggled up n all.

maybe, i guess from being a pro mechanic, you kinda don’t have the choice and work with what ya got.

many of us would probably dare if we had nice step-by-step from you.

kinda like the AC video … you mentioned reasons why you shy away from it, but it was really instructional and i know it benefited me and many others. (i rocked that video and got me some ice cold! – maybe too cold).

Heck, anyone can scratch up the head to block surface too badly during head gasket change.
so can a person mess up an engine wash and short something or flood something.
Mayhaps, not so recommended, but if done correctly, worth it?

Just my 2 cents, and 100% understand if you don’t want to do it.
(kinda trying to convince you :stick: – hah.)

Well, i guess, you can even recommend completely against it … which is i guess what you are saying?
~aww mane~

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98602]I care about how clean the inside is, not the outside. I don’t clean engines. I’ve had too many detail guys come to me with cars that wouldn’t start after they cleaned an engine. Therefore I don’t recommend it, nor do I have a preferred method of doing it. In fact there was a forum post about this in the past week. Car wouldn’t start after washing the engine.[/quote]

[david]

sup Eric,

but … but …
awww mane~!

serious side though:
not everyone can enjoy buying new.
so maybe many of your viewers (including me) are forced to buy a less-than-optimally-clean engine and clean it up after some necessary repairs have been made.
obviously, want to get the insides all good an’ running first (And ideally no more drips). But even if small drip, better than 100k miles of grime totally uncleaned. especially when working on the engine – and especially if have to work underneath … all safety goggled up n all.

maybe, i guess from being a pro mechanic, you kinda don’t have the choice and work with what ya got.

many of us would probably dare if we had nice step-by-step from you.

kinda like the AC video … you mentioned reasons why you shy away from it, but it was really instructional and i know it benefited me and many others. (i rocked that video and got me some ice cold! – maybe too cold).

Heck, anyone can scratch up the head to block surface too badly during head gasket change.
so can a person mess up an engine wash and short something or flood something.
Mayhaps, not so recommended, but if done correctly, worth it?

Just my 2 cents, and 100% understand if you don’t want to do it.
(kinda trying to convince you :stick: – hah.)

Well, i guess, you can even recommend completely against it … which is i guess what you are saying?
~aww mane~

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98602]I care about how clean the inside is, not the outside. I don’t clean engines. I’ve had too many detail guys come to me with cars that wouldn’t start after they cleaned an engine. Therefore I don’t recommend it, nor do I have a preferred method of doing it. In fact there was a forum post about this in the past week. Car wouldn’t start after washing the engine.[/quote]

[david]

Hi DarkViggen,

i could not turn the piston at all with the dust boot all contorted.
however, i did not try this with the caliper/bracket assembled onto the wheel so maybe it was just because i did not have enough muscle.

but the contorted dust boot looks like it was maybe wedging in the piston into the seat/bore.
the first pic i showed, was actually like already 10 minutes or so of spraying some silicone and attempts to ease to boot back to normal. I had to do it some more, just slowly prying at the dust boot and twisting it back other way and sprayed more silicone until it finally got all nice and seated as shown in the second picture.

anyhow, going to do a full brake fluid flush this weekend. since the brake pads are really thick, and does not look distorted, i will keep them for a while. Just hope they work normally. the grinding rubbing brakes sound has gone away completely.

Thanks for response.

[quote=”DarkViggen” post=98567]Could a contorted dust boot cause my brakes to not work (barely work)?
If it was sealing properly – i don’t think so. The job of a dust boot is to prevent water and other stuff to contact with the piston. Nothing more.

What causes brake piston to seize?
Most of the time it is rust. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. Many people don’t change their brake fluids often enough and after some time brakes start to seize.[/quote]

[david]

Hi DarkViggen,

i could not turn the piston at all with the dust boot all contorted.
however, i did not try this with the caliper/bracket assembled onto the wheel so maybe it was just because i did not have enough muscle.

but the contorted dust boot looks like it was maybe wedging in the piston into the seat/bore.
the first pic i showed, was actually like already 10 minutes or so of spraying some silicone and attempts to ease to boot back to normal. I had to do it some more, just slowly prying at the dust boot and twisting it back other way and sprayed more silicone until it finally got all nice and seated as shown in the second picture.

anyhow, going to do a full brake fluid flush this weekend. since the brake pads are really thick, and does not look distorted, i will keep them for a while. Just hope they work normally. the grinding rubbing brakes sound has gone away completely.

Thanks for response.

[quote=”DarkViggen” post=98567]Could a contorted dust boot cause my brakes to not work (barely work)?
If it was sealing properly – i don’t think so. The job of a dust boot is to prevent water and other stuff to contact with the piston. Nothing more.

What causes brake piston to seize?
Most of the time it is rust. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. Many people don’t change their brake fluids often enough and after some time brakes start to seize.[/quote]

[david]

Wow. This is a good topic.

I am all Mobil1. Started with my 3rd car (my list of cars in my sig), 1983 280z turbo, back in 1997. This car was quite abused, was working part time doing delivery for take-out taxi in ATL and i liked making my deliveries pdq. I had regular in it, then for some reason, i saw some coupon and went ahead and tried Mobil1.
The engine was so much quieter after the oil change.
My jaw just about hit the floor.
Was much too dramatic of a difference and that engine never sprang a leak.
Since then, every car i’ve had, i only run Mobil1.
Not just any synthetic, but Mobil1 with recommended weight and viscosity.

However, i can see how/why there would be recommendation against synthetics or at least the value might not be there for many cars and their respective drivers.

The bit about the possibly “remove” the sludge left behind by regular oil and maybe what was clogged is now floating around to be clogging somewhere else, well, i’d say that’s more likely the case when switching much later in an engine’s life – especially an engine that’s been neglected of oil changes.
Not really sure about the engine life’s part though, as i did the switch in the 280z at around 120k or so.
Did the switch in the Accord at around 70k or so and the Benz i think started with synthetic since new.
The Escort i started using Mobil1 when it was under 90k. Acura Legend switched when it was 120k or so.

Personal recommendation to anyone, use Mobil1. if just transitioning between oils, do 3k mi changes first two or three times. Then can do the 5k or 10 to 15k (extended life) changes after this transition period.
I have not had a car which became leakier or noisier because of a change to synthetic. I have had cars that became quieter and remained leak free after a change to synthetic. I have had cars that had no observable change between using synthetic and conventional – well, actually, i think i’ve always noticed the engine is quieter when going to synthetic.
Yes, i have tried Rotella once, tried Castrol blended, tried Penzoil Platinum. For some reason or another, although Mobil1 is always more expensive, i keep coming back.

But that’s just me … and im going to do my first oil change on my latest acquisition (infinti g20) to full synthetic (actually might start this with Castrol Edge instead of Mobil1, not sure yet) in right about 500 more miles. And then doing another change at 3k after that. Hope no leaky. This car is at 158k.

oil, o’ what wonderous substance, both seals and lubricates!

Dunno if i can document it … maybe i will try.
2 cents.

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=89503][quote=”wysetech” post=89473]That’s a very good post but all the testing, engineers and the best labs in the world will never come close to the testing done by “John Q Public” driving his car every day.

I don’t think there are NASCAR teams running Dino oil anyware in their $150.000 race cars. They run at 250+ degree oil temperatures for 4 hours at 9000 rpm They use synthetic for a reason not to mention trying to gain one thousands of a second speed difference between competitors.

Just my opinion :)[/quote]

Fantastic! You just made my point. Application. A 1992 Honda Civic with 250K is NOT a NASCAR. I never claimed that dino was better than synthetic. What I said in both videos was is that there are certain situations where the use of synthetic may actually be harmful OR a complete waste of money. If you have a solid engine that’s not leaking and you want to extend your oil change interval and get better MPG, synthetic is the way to go. If however you have an old POS that you’re looking to make better with synthetic oil, think again. It may do more harm than good.[/quote]

[david]

Wow. This is a good topic.

I am all Mobil1. Started with my 3rd car (my list of cars in my sig), 1983 280z turbo, back in 1997. This car was quite abused, was working part time doing delivery for take-out taxi in ATL and i liked making my deliveries pdq. I had regular in it, then for some reason, i saw some coupon and went ahead and tried Mobil1.
The engine was so much quieter after the oil change.
My jaw just about hit the floor.
Was much too dramatic of a difference and that engine never sprang a leak.
Since then, every car i’ve had, i only run Mobil1.
Not just any synthetic, but Mobil1 with recommended weight and viscosity.

However, i can see how/why there would be recommendation against synthetics or at least the value might not be there for many cars and their respective drivers.

The bit about the possibly “remove” the sludge left behind by regular oil and maybe what was clogged is now floating around to be clogging somewhere else, well, i’d say that’s more likely the case when switching much later in an engine’s life – especially an engine that’s been neglected of oil changes.
Not really sure about the engine life’s part though, as i did the switch in the 280z at around 120k or so.
Did the switch in the Accord at around 70k or so and the Benz i think started with synthetic since new.
The Escort i started using Mobil1 when it was under 90k. Acura Legend switched when it was 120k or so.

Personal recommendation to anyone, use Mobil1. if just transitioning between oils, do 3k mi changes first two or three times. Then can do the 5k or 10 to 15k (extended life) changes after this transition period.
I have not had a car which became leakier or noisier because of a change to synthetic. I have had cars that became quieter and remained leak free after a change to synthetic. I have had cars that had no observable change between using synthetic and conventional – well, actually, i think i’ve always noticed the engine is quieter when going to synthetic.
Yes, i have tried Rotella once, tried Castrol blended, tried Penzoil Platinum. For some reason or another, although Mobil1 is always more expensive, i keep coming back.

But that’s just me … and im going to do my first oil change on my latest acquisition (infinti g20) to full synthetic (actually might start this with Castrol Edge instead of Mobil1, not sure yet) in right about 500 more miles. And then doing another change at 3k after that. Hope no leaky. This car is at 158k.

oil, o’ what wonderous substance, both seals and lubricates!

Dunno if i can document it … maybe i will try.
2 cents.

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=89503][quote=”wysetech” post=89473]That’s a very good post but all the testing, engineers and the best labs in the world will never come close to the testing done by “John Q Public” driving his car every day.

I don’t think there are NASCAR teams running Dino oil anyware in their $150.000 race cars. They run at 250+ degree oil temperatures for 4 hours at 9000 rpm They use synthetic for a reason not to mention trying to gain one thousands of a second speed difference between competitors.

Just my opinion :)[/quote]

Fantastic! You just made my point. Application. A 1992 Honda Civic with 250K is NOT a NASCAR. I never claimed that dino was better than synthetic. What I said in both videos was is that there are certain situations where the use of synthetic may actually be harmful OR a complete waste of money. If you have a solid engine that’s not leaking and you want to extend your oil change interval and get better MPG, synthetic is the way to go. If however you have an old POS that you’re looking to make better with synthetic oil, think again. It may do more harm than good.[/quote]

[david]

hope you don’t test drive in that same “parking lot” … there was a shot in the second video, near the end, where there looked like there are 2 or 3 other metal spikes coming out of the ground?

2 cents.

[david]

hope you don’t test drive in that same “parking lot” … there was a shot in the second video, near the end, where there looked like there are 2 or 3 other metal spikes coming out of the ground?

2 cents.

[david]

Just depends on your car if you can get free repair guides or not.
Have to check around online.

two examples:
for my lastest ride, the infiniti G20, i have the FSM posted online if just register at nicoclub.com.
(and looks like you can get most if not all Nissan cars, maybe they have up to a certain year model, i have not checked)
for my other car, i don’t have FSM but i have a whole website dedicated to Ford Escorts.
And the help there is genuine and non-judgmental and from practical experience.

Wish all cars had their specific sites but that would be much to wishful thinking.
Having just gone thru a car hunt recently, i actually start looking for car sites to check for available information before i buy a used car now.
And with ETCG … well, ya got a virtual road map here for Honda/Acura?

AND like you said, maybe you just gotta be lucky. 7 bux … hard to beat. :pinch:

[Author]

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