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Not to pet myself on the shoulder, but I busted a stud on son’s Mazdaspeed due to over torqued lug nut. Had to take rotor off to install new one. Sure enough, it won’t let go. 5 strokes between studs popped it loose just like this. Not even sprayed it with release agent.
Well, before you go that route, check hub bearings, OK?
I actually never witnessed a Go-Go dencer, so I am only guessing on what exactly that is:
shimmy like a 60’s Go-Go dancer between 60 and 75ish MPH.
but hub bearings slipped your attention, I believe.
Now, here’s interesting thing from my experience with Hondas. Was valve adjustment job ever done on this car? As I had to do it to reduce unpleasant vibration in my Ridgeline.
And last but definitely not least. Your clutch bands are slipping in transmission. Honda automatics are known for transmission shake.
Well, before you go that route, check hub bearings, OK?
I actually never witnessed a Go-Go dencer, so I am only guessing on what exactly that is:
shimmy like a 60’s Go-Go dancer between 60 and 75ish MPH.
but hub bearings slipped your attention, I believe.
Now, here’s interesting thing from my experience with Hondas. Was valve adjustment job ever done on this car? As I had to do it to reduce unpleasant vibration in my Ridgeline.
And last but definitely not least. Your clutch bands are slipping in transmission. Honda automatics are known for transmission shake.
2 ways to check on it.
1. If you have good parking brake. Engage parking brake completely, start the vehicle, release clutch by completely pressing the clutch pedal, engage 1st gear, slowly release clutch pedal. If car stalls, clutch is OK.
2. if you do not have good parking brake, place a large chunk of foam or something soft between front bumper and a sturdy object you can use as a block to prevent your car from moving forward. Do not engage parking brake. Start engine and do same thing with the 1st gear. If car stalls…Out of two, I’d rather trust your mech and personal findings. As of how high up from the floor clutch should engage (you release clutch by pressing clutch pedal down and release pressure plate=engage clutch by releasing pedal) is likely debatable. I’d suggest finding factory spec for your car with exact distance to travel from the floor. Personally, I prefer clutch engage lower to the floor. So I do not have to move foot that far. Gives faster shifts. But it’s personal. Follow the spec.
2 ways to check on it.
1. If you have good parking brake. Engage parking brake completely, start the vehicle, release clutch by completely pressing the clutch pedal, engage 1st gear, slowly release clutch pedal. If car stalls, clutch is OK.
2. if you do not have good parking brake, place a large chunk of foam or something soft between front bumper and a sturdy object you can use as a block to prevent your car from moving forward. Do not engage parking brake. Start engine and do same thing with the 1st gear. If car stalls…Out of two, I’d rather trust your mech and personal findings. As of how high up from the floor clutch should engage (you release clutch by pressing clutch pedal down and release pressure plate=engage clutch by releasing pedal) is likely debatable. I’d suggest finding factory spec for your car with exact distance to travel from the floor. Personally, I prefer clutch engage lower to the floor. So I do not have to move foot that far. Gives faster shifts. But it’s personal. Follow the spec.
You can. Same autozone has bearings. You simply hit a quick sale clerk at the counter.
I had idler replaced twice and tensioner once on my Silverado, zo I knew which one it usually is.You can. Same autozone has bearings. You simply hit a quick sale clerk at the counter.
I had idler replaced twice and tensioner once on my Silverado, zo I knew which one it usually is.OK, I may be of no help, but I’ll try with asking you questions.
1. Why do you have your jack on something that appears to be connected to CA?
2. What is that crack in the back part of that piece that your jack is sitting on?
3. watch this:4. Here’s my take on things. Where that bolt goes into the subframe or crossmember, is about one of the sturdiest body areas. If you are BENDING it there, your body has major structural issue.
Not trying to be a prick, I simply can not see it possibly done otherwise.
The bushing sleeve simply should come out of the CA as soon as bolt is undone. Bolt should have a self centering cone taper on the opposite to head side and go into either welded nut in subframe or threads cut in it. That area is designed for sever impacts and torque, so with hands you no way going to damage it.
I’d say, re-think jack positioning, as judging from the pic, it simply prevents bolt from coming out.OK, I may be of no help, but I’ll try with asking you questions.
1. Why do you have your jack on something that appears to be connected to CA?
2. What is that crack in the back part of that piece that your jack is sitting on?
3. watch this:4. Here’s my take on things. Where that bolt goes into the subframe or crossmember, is about one of the sturdiest body areas. If you are BENDING it there, your body has major structural issue.
Not trying to be a prick, I simply can not see it possibly done otherwise.
The bushing sleeve simply should come out of the CA as soon as bolt is undone. Bolt should have a self centering cone taper on the opposite to head side and go into either welded nut in subframe or threads cut in it. That area is designed for sever impacts and torque, so with hands you no way going to damage it.
I’d say, re-think jack positioning, as judging from the pic, it simply prevents bolt from coming out.For that year, know no start Honda culprits are:
– main relay
– ignitor
– coil
– distributor.
Main relay runs pump, ignition, and starter. Try this: SLOWLY move key through key positions in the key lock. With every position, you should hear click from about where your left knee is, inside the dash. That’s GOOD sign.
Ignitor and coil are hidden inside the distributor.
Distributor, due to it’s location, is easily fouled by oil leaking from valve cover. There are 2 O-rings that must be replaced routinely to prevent that.
Spark plugs get fouled by oil very fast. But it’s not just valve cover gaskets. Eric here has a nice vid on hidden seals, inside the rocker arm base, that may cause this.
So, you have plenty of areas to CHECK BEFORE YOU TOSS $$ AT THIS CAR. Don’t do any haphazard, on a hunch, replacements, car is not worth this. If I do not forget, I’ll shoot you link to excellent Honda for those years site, with all kinds of real life walk through-s for no start up issues.
From what you describe, btw, have you ever looked at your idles speed control valve? It needs to be removed and disassembled/cleaned. It’s not hard to do. Betcha ton of calcium build up inside.For that year, know no start Honda culprits are:
– main relay
– ignitor
– coil
– distributor.
Main relay runs pump, ignition, and starter. Try this: SLOWLY move key through key positions in the key lock. With every position, you should hear click from about where your left knee is, inside the dash. That’s GOOD sign.
Ignitor and coil are hidden inside the distributor.
Distributor, due to it’s location, is easily fouled by oil leaking from valve cover. There are 2 O-rings that must be replaced routinely to prevent that.
Spark plugs get fouled by oil very fast. But it’s not just valve cover gaskets. Eric here has a nice vid on hidden seals, inside the rocker arm base, that may cause this.
So, you have plenty of areas to CHECK BEFORE YOU TOSS $$ AT THIS CAR. Don’t do any haphazard, on a hunch, replacements, car is not worth this. If I do not forget, I’ll shoot you link to excellent Honda for those years site, with all kinds of real life walk through-s for no start up issues.
From what you describe, btw, have you ever looked at your idles speed control valve? It needs to be removed and disassembled/cleaned. It’s not hard to do. Betcha ton of calcium build up inside.What bushings on Accord? Sway bar bushings need no press to replace.
Most likely, you referring to control arm bushings. Well, have you checked how much are they online? ENTIRE control arms with bushings? NEW? I can buy set of TWO for our 2011 civic for $110. That’s $55 a piece. Complete.
Why would I even bother with any bushings replacements then?What bushings on Accord? Sway bar bushings need no press to replace.
Most likely, you referring to control arm bushings. Well, have you checked how much are they online? ENTIRE control arms with bushings? NEW? I can buy set of TWO for our 2011 civic for $110. That’s $55 a piece. Complete.
Why would I even bother with any bushings replacements then?GM sometimes has weird back forth play in their shafts. And it’s designed.
Do this. Cut a piece of a garden hose or another similar suitable length hose. Doesn’t really matter, as far as it’s reasonably sturdy.
Turn engine on and use that hose as stethoscope. You’ll be surprised how well it actually works to spot the bearing noise source.
My bet is on 2 all time known bearings:
– idler
– alternator.Very seldom have I heard of PS pumps going bad.
GM sometimes has weird back forth play in their shafts. And it’s designed.
Do this. Cut a piece of a garden hose or another similar suitable length hose. Doesn’t really matter, as far as it’s reasonably sturdy.
Turn engine on and use that hose as stethoscope. You’ll be surprised how well it actually works to spot the bearing noise source.
My bet is on 2 all time known bearings:
– idler
– alternator.Very seldom have I heard of PS pumps going bad.