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One way of doing this:
Or:
Step Five: Resurfacing the Rotor
First, lay the rotor flat on the ground
Then, using a drill and a abrasive pad (cookie) slowly begin roughing up the surface of the rotor
Next, do the same on the other side of the rotor
Then, when you can no longer see your reflection in the rotor you are complete
Finally, simply put the rotor back on the hubOne way of doing this:
Or:
Step Five: Resurfacing the Rotor
First, lay the rotor flat on the ground
Then, using a drill and a abrasive pad (cookie) slowly begin roughing up the surface of the rotor
Next, do the same on the other side of the rotor
Then, when you can no longer see your reflection in the rotor you are complete
Finally, simply put the rotor back on the hubUnfortunately, you made very basic but costly down the road mistake. You did NOT bed in your rotors and pads BEFORE regular use. This is very common, though bedding in procedures are well known and highly recommended in DIY community.
Here’s an excellent article on this:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-mythsWhat you see is a hard object caught between pad and rotor, that lathed a grove in it. You want to take pad off, and resurface it on a flat sand paper. Wear mask, thing is dangerous to inhale. If I were you, considering that rotors are “fresh”, I’d have all four pads removed, resurfaced, rotors removed, and rotary sanded to remove glaze, then bed them in right away.
Be well.Unfortunately, you made very basic but costly down the road mistake. You did NOT bed in your rotors and pads BEFORE regular use. This is very common, though bedding in procedures are well known and highly recommended in DIY community.
Here’s an excellent article on this:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-mythsWhat you see is a hard object caught between pad and rotor, that lathed a grove in it. You want to take pad off, and resurface it on a flat sand paper. Wear mask, thing is dangerous to inhale. If I were you, considering that rotors are “fresh”, I’d have all four pads removed, resurfaced, rotors removed, and rotary sanded to remove glaze, then bed them in right away.
Be well.For some silly reason, I could not see all other responses before I posted mine. Then I read them and would like to add this:
Antifreeze formulations used as coolants deploy an assortment of organo-metallic and organic additives. These are used to protect metals in the cooling system from corrosion/cavitation, to control scale, to prevent foaming and to maintain pH. Common examples of additives include various phosphates, sodium borate, molybdate, sodium silicate, potassium sebacate and sodium nitrate. Just like additives in a lubricating oil, these additives will contribute to ranging elemental concentrations of sodium, boron, potassium, silicon and phosphorous in the coolant. As will be discussed in greater detail later, the elemental families from the coolant additive system help serve as markers, like DNA, to identify glycol contamination of lubricating oils.
See, problem is, coolant is “oily” not because it has oil in it, but because of its main compounds plus lubrication additives. Water pump fins spin at very high speed. Regular oil, unfortunately, has very high foaming ability, one of the reasons it is not used in say shock absorbers. When you have water +engine oil, run through fast spinning pump fins, they will beat that mixture up into suspension, well known yellow “milkshake”. You don’t want to have THAT inside your cooling system.
That being said, I am opposed to saying “it’s OK to drive on it for some time”.For some silly reason, I could not see all other responses before I posted mine. Then I read them and would like to add this:
Antifreeze formulations used as coolants deploy an assortment of organo-metallic and organic additives. These are used to protect metals in the cooling system from corrosion/cavitation, to control scale, to prevent foaming and to maintain pH. Common examples of additives include various phosphates, sodium borate, molybdate, sodium silicate, potassium sebacate and sodium nitrate. Just like additives in a lubricating oil, these additives will contribute to ranging elemental concentrations of sodium, boron, potassium, silicon and phosphorous in the coolant. As will be discussed in greater detail later, the elemental families from the coolant additive system help serve as markers, like DNA, to identify glycol contamination of lubricating oils.
See, problem is, coolant is “oily” not because it has oil in it, but because of its main compounds plus lubrication additives. Water pump fins spin at very high speed. Regular oil, unfortunately, has very high foaming ability, one of the reasons it is not used in say shock absorbers. When you have water +engine oil, run through fast spinning pump fins, they will beat that mixture up into suspension, well known yellow “milkshake”. You don’t want to have THAT inside your cooling system.
That being said, I am opposed to saying “it’s OK to drive on it for some time”.Start here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#symptoms
The way distributor is on those, sealing O-rings allow oil into distributor after some mileage, causing ignitor and coil issues. Plus, most likely, cap and rotor is worn out anyway. I am alsmot positive it’s distributor.
Start here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#symptoms
The way distributor is on those, sealing O-rings allow oil into distributor after some mileage, causing ignitor and coil issues. Plus, most likely, cap and rotor is worn out anyway. I am alsmot positive it’s distributor.
I actually had done just the opposite – poured some coolant into oil. Makes two of us.
You have to do complete engine drain and flush. That being said, hopefully, it’s an older car and you can buy a repair manual for it. Hopefully even more, engine block has drain cocks. Like wife’s RX300 has 2, one per each engine bank.
But truly, if you didn’t start the engine and run it, that oil is still blissfully in radiator only, not in engine block. Basically, then you should worry not about the engine and simply locate all radiator hoses, disconnect them, drain everything, and then flush with garden hose, and maybe add some radiator flush to the water, via say a garden sprayer bottle. Like they use for herbicides.
Truly, coolant has oil in it anyway, to keep water pump lubricated. But you do not want to end up with milkshake coolant, as it simply reduces heat exchange and plugs small passages.
Be careful and do NOT disconnect ac or transmission hoses, plenty of those going into radiator. That’s why $15 or so spent on repair manual is good money.I actually had done just the opposite – poured some coolant into oil. Makes two of us.
You have to do complete engine drain and flush. That being said, hopefully, it’s an older car and you can buy a repair manual for it. Hopefully even more, engine block has drain cocks. Like wife’s RX300 has 2, one per each engine bank.
But truly, if you didn’t start the engine and run it, that oil is still blissfully in radiator only, not in engine block. Basically, then you should worry not about the engine and simply locate all radiator hoses, disconnect them, drain everything, and then flush with garden hose, and maybe add some radiator flush to the water, via say a garden sprayer bottle. Like they use for herbicides.
Truly, coolant has oil in it anyway, to keep water pump lubricated. But you do not want to end up with milkshake coolant, as it simply reduces heat exchange and plugs small passages.
Be careful and do NOT disconnect ac or transmission hoses, plenty of those going into radiator. That’s why $15 or so spent on repair manual is good money.Oh yeah. I donated car to my patient, he taught both of his daughters how to drive with it, and donated it to his cousin or something. Very stubborn vehicle.
Oh yeah. I donated car to my patient, he taught both of his daughters how to drive with it, and donated it to his cousin or something. Very stubborn vehicle.
I can copy post autozone receipt for mazdaspeed ac clutch bearing and for idler bearing.
But it’s irrelevant. Main thing is satisfaction from DIY accomplishments.
Be careful with water pump too. It starts as screeching noise on cold startups that goes away in about a minute.
Bad bearings sound like beetles in a mass. Kinda crunchy noise. Automotive bearing should have no play whatsoever due to amount of stress and life at stake.
Be well. Good job.I can copy post autozone receipt for mazdaspeed ac clutch bearing and for idler bearing.
But it’s irrelevant. Main thing is satisfaction from DIY accomplishments.
Be careful with water pump too. It starts as screeching noise on cold startups that goes away in about a minute.
Bad bearings sound like beetles in a mass. Kinda crunchy noise. Automotive bearing should have no play whatsoever due to amount of stress and life at stake.
Be well. Good job.