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I am big fan of HALO plugs. For performance and better mpg. Yes, I did use them without ANY issues on Honda. 04 CR-V, to be more precise. They are a bit more expensive comparing to NGK, but I have very good track record with them on Lexus, Honda, GM, and Toyota. Spark they produce is amazing. Bosch was trying to copy them but they can’t close the crown due to patent.
But indeed, for straight swap, NGK is likely da best choice.Actually, if you want to, you can shot propane or butane from a bottle at it too. But it’s much less energy rich, so results may not be as instant. But sure is a bit less volatile.
Actually, if you want to, you can shot propane or butane from a bottle at it too. But it’s much less energy rich, so results may not be as instant. But sure is a bit less volatile.
Well, we didn’t tell you to take match to it, right? Just kidding.
Because it’s the cheapest high carbon contant flammable spray available. Carb and chok cleaner is more expensive.
IT WILL NOT IGNITE FROM CONTACT EVEN TO HOT EXHAUST. You have to take actual flame to it to ignite. How do I know? As if did it on cold, hot, and very hot engines. Exhaust included. It simply evaporates. I wouldn’t be taking it to a red hot exhaust, of course, but for that, you have to have someone racing the engine for quite a time. On cold warming engine you are fine and safe. WARE SAFETY GLASSES of course.Well, we didn’t tell you to take match to it, right? Just kidding.
Because it’s the cheapest high carbon contant flammable spray available. Carb and chok cleaner is more expensive.
IT WILL NOT IGNITE FROM CONTACT EVEN TO HOT EXHAUST. You have to take actual flame to it to ignite. How do I know? As if did it on cold, hot, and very hot engines. Exhaust included. It simply evaporates. I wouldn’t be taking it to a red hot exhaust, of course, but for that, you have to have someone racing the engine for quite a time. On cold warming engine you are fine and safe. WARE SAFETY GLASSES of course.OP, please, follow Karl’s advice and post vehicle make model and year. We are blindly guessing right now and mostly because of the lack of this basic but crucial info. Some clutch systems are quite goofy, like Mazda/Ford ones, with baffled shared fluid canister and very easy to damage hydraulic line seal.
So please, start with that. Then, locate your master fluid canister and check on fluid level. If level is OK, slave is not leaking, then your master has blown piston seal and develops no pressure.
Next step is to check on firewall right below the master and on INSIDE of the car floor, right below the master push-rod, connected to clutch pedal. Means – you need to peal off carpet to get to the metal. If any streaks of fluid are there, then master is leaking. I had 4 masters replaced on 2 cars in the last 2 years because of this.OP, please, follow Karl’s advice and post vehicle make model and year. We are blindly guessing right now and mostly because of the lack of this basic but crucial info. Some clutch systems are quite goofy, like Mazda/Ford ones, with baffled shared fluid canister and very easy to damage hydraulic line seal.
So please, start with that. Then, locate your master fluid canister and check on fluid level. If level is OK, slave is not leaking, then your master has blown piston seal and develops no pressure.
Next step is to check on firewall right below the master and on INSIDE of the car floor, right below the master push-rod, connected to clutch pedal. Means – you need to peal off carpet to get to the metal. If any streaks of fluid are there, then master is leaking. I had 4 masters replaced on 2 cars in the last 2 years because of this.Without getting into the big Vette science and OBD 1 or 2 transition, lean cold start indicates air leak somewhere. As engine warms up, metal expands and gap closes, returning system to sealed air supply and normal operation.
Simplest thing to do is to let her cool down, have can of brake cleaner with straw inserted ready, start her up and start giving quick shots of brake cleaner moving step by step around all gaskets – plenums, intake manifold, etc. Throttle body. Where engine bucks, that’s where the leak is.
I don’t think it’s any of vacuum hoses, as rubber does not expand from temperature. Metal is much more “shape shifting” in this respect.Without getting into the big Vette science and OBD 1 or 2 transition, lean cold start indicates air leak somewhere. As engine warms up, metal expands and gap closes, returning system to sealed air supply and normal operation.
Simplest thing to do is to let her cool down, have can of brake cleaner with straw inserted ready, start her up and start giving quick shots of brake cleaner moving step by step around all gaskets – plenums, intake manifold, etc. Throttle body. Where engine bucks, that’s where the leak is.
I don’t think it’s any of vacuum hoses, as rubber does not expand from temperature. Metal is much more “shape shifting” in this respect.I had my share of stuck – rusted to hub – Japanese rotors. For some reason, Honda and Toyoda are real bad about this.
I found this method working very well and with no chance of rotor warp:
MAKE SURE LITTLE SCREWS HOLDING ROTOR TO HUB ARE REMOVED. If not and can’t get them out – drill the heads off, they are useless anyway and serve no function.
1. squirt liberally Quick Wrench or other parting agent of choice into the stud holes, rotating rotor slowly, so that liquid distributes evenly.
2. let it soak for about 20 minutes
3. squirt another shot of parting agent into the holes. Leave it alone for another some time.
4. take a mid size hammer, position yourself conveniently to have a good swing and aim, and HIT rotor HARD somewhere between the studs. Do so several times, in criss-cross pattern. So far, after 3-4 strikes, even the stubbornest rotor pops right off.
I just did this to my Camry, maybe 3 months ago, replacing rear rotors.
I also learned to liberally smear antiseize onto the rotor inside before reinstall.
As a rule, I prefer not to hammer on rotor leading edge. Reason obvious. If I do, I use rubber mallet.Another trick that works is to remove 2 lug nuts on 4-5 lug wheel, and 3 on 6-8 lug wheel. Loosen the rest of the lugs just enough to allow some wobble between wheel and rotor/hub assy. Start engine and slowly move vehicle back-for few times, maybe 3 feet. Usually pops rotor loose.
I had my share of stuck – rusted to hub – Japanese rotors. For some reason, Honda and Toyoda are real bad about this.
I found this method working very well and with no chance of rotor warp:
MAKE SURE LITTLE SCREWS HOLDING ROTOR TO HUB ARE REMOVED. If not and can’t get them out – drill the heads off, they are useless anyway and serve no function.
1. squirt liberally Quick Wrench or other parting agent of choice into the stud holes, rotating rotor slowly, so that liquid distributes evenly.
2. let it soak for about 20 minutes
3. squirt another shot of parting agent into the holes. Leave it alone for another some time.
4. take a mid size hammer, position yourself conveniently to have a good swing and aim, and HIT rotor HARD somewhere between the studs. Do so several times, in criss-cross pattern. So far, after 3-4 strikes, even the stubbornest rotor pops right off.
I just did this to my Camry, maybe 3 months ago, replacing rear rotors.
I also learned to liberally smear antiseize onto the rotor inside before reinstall.
As a rule, I prefer not to hammer on rotor leading edge. Reason obvious. If I do, I use rubber mallet.Another trick that works is to remove 2 lug nuts on 4-5 lug wheel, and 3 on 6-8 lug wheel. Loosen the rest of the lugs just enough to allow some wobble between wheel and rotor/hub assy. Start engine and slowly move vehicle back-for few times, maybe 3 feet. Usually pops rotor loose.
Hi all.
I guess a bit of background will help. As this happens in every automotive forum to every new poster with a strange question.
No, I am no rookie to cars. Been working on my cars since 1990. My cars, pals, cars, just cars.
AC specific, I had recharged quite a few and did several compressor swaps. I did several clutches replacements. Every time successfully including DIY recharge.
This particular car went on a 9 hr trip one way, and about 45 minutes away from destination, started making grinding noise. Come to find, it was ac clutch. Driven by my son. Car, not clutch, of course.
Him and his buddy pulled clutch plate off to find bearing in basically pieces. Clutch bearing, not comp bearing. They found a matching bearing and replaced it. While doing this, and I have seen many Mazda 3 and Mazdaspeed owners do same, they warped the clutch plate. He took off home and Sunday, 2 hrs into drive, in Boise, he lost PS and muscled his car into Autozone parking lot. Lucky. Hired a mobil mech. Serpentine belt was ripped. Clutch plate was from what I can tell now, badly overheated. And it IS bent. Also, they found that idler bearing was in pieces too. Pulley configuration did not permit making car drivable with “no-ac” belt. Son rented U-Haul and towed car back to a total tune of close to $2000 for that trip.
This car in less than 2 yrs of ownership cost us close to $5000 in repairs. Much of it done by yours truly here. I AM TIRED of this vehicle. And I am NOT tossing any more money at it. It is up for sale, either with ac or “as is” and I don’t care if I were to lose some $$ on it.
FArthest I’ll go will be to get her back on the lift Saturday morning, jump clutch to make sure it works, if not – seller will pay me back, PayPal is good about this – will replace O-rings on comp, vacuum it completely, and try to recharge using manifold.
If it charges, it charges, if not, as is it is. I damn well KNOW what it will take to take her to ac shop. Will end up in a thousand or so bill, as they are minding their business, and will try to milk me for all kinds of replacements and repairs. And I have short fuse for this.
I have good guess why it has pressure on L side. As, likely, some freon stayed inside, then air got trapped, plus it took about half a large can of freon in, when I tried to recharge it “the simple way”.
But what really ticks me off is couple things:
1. fortunately, I DID DIY recharge systems before and successfully.
2. buddy across the fence is car flipper. He rebuilds cars and had dozens of them, with radiator and lines and everything disconnected or replaced after front end damage, recharged. 2 cans of freon, boom done. He never even vacuumed the systems. I started talking to him about vacuum, he looks at me like I am from space. And that is the guy who does this for living and for years.
So if you patiently read my rumble down to this line, let’s put it all on ice. Let me see what I can do, and I’ll post the final results. Yes, I am very well aware of all the cautions and hazards. I have not only done “research” but have hands on experience from multiple cars.
With that being said, I appreciate everyone’s input and suggestions. I do. Forums saved me lots of headaches, money and gave me a lot of education. This is where I go first thing with questions and I serve with my experience and advice in 6 of them. I simply never used manifold before and had some questions. Most of them answered, thank you.All be well. Don’t get upset with me or think I’m a smart ars. I work on cars basically non stop, I feel, I am well entitled to some experience credit. But in this car case, there will be no another expensive “shop way”. She’s not worse it. It’s 2nd car in my life that really got on my nerve.
Hi all.
I guess a bit of background will help. As this happens in every automotive forum to every new poster with a strange question.
No, I am no rookie to cars. Been working on my cars since 1990. My cars, pals, cars, just cars.
AC specific, I had recharged quite a few and did several compressor swaps. I did several clutches replacements. Every time successfully including DIY recharge.
This particular car went on a 9 hr trip one way, and about 45 minutes away from destination, started making grinding noise. Come to find, it was ac clutch. Driven by my son. Car, not clutch, of course.
Him and his buddy pulled clutch plate off to find bearing in basically pieces. Clutch bearing, not comp bearing. They found a matching bearing and replaced it. While doing this, and I have seen many Mazda 3 and Mazdaspeed owners do same, they warped the clutch plate. He took off home and Sunday, 2 hrs into drive, in Boise, he lost PS and muscled his car into Autozone parking lot. Lucky. Hired a mobil mech. Serpentine belt was ripped. Clutch plate was from what I can tell now, badly overheated. And it IS bent. Also, they found that idler bearing was in pieces too. Pulley configuration did not permit making car drivable with “no-ac” belt. Son rented U-Haul and towed car back to a total tune of close to $2000 for that trip.
This car in less than 2 yrs of ownership cost us close to $5000 in repairs. Much of it done by yours truly here. I AM TIRED of this vehicle. And I am NOT tossing any more money at it. It is up for sale, either with ac or “as is” and I don’t care if I were to lose some $$ on it.
FArthest I’ll go will be to get her back on the lift Saturday morning, jump clutch to make sure it works, if not – seller will pay me back, PayPal is good about this – will replace O-rings on comp, vacuum it completely, and try to recharge using manifold.
If it charges, it charges, if not, as is it is. I damn well KNOW what it will take to take her to ac shop. Will end up in a thousand or so bill, as they are minding their business, and will try to milk me for all kinds of replacements and repairs. And I have short fuse for this.
I have good guess why it has pressure on L side. As, likely, some freon stayed inside, then air got trapped, plus it took about half a large can of freon in, when I tried to recharge it “the simple way”.
But what really ticks me off is couple things:
1. fortunately, I DID DIY recharge systems before and successfully.
2. buddy across the fence is car flipper. He rebuilds cars and had dozens of them, with radiator and lines and everything disconnected or replaced after front end damage, recharged. 2 cans of freon, boom done. He never even vacuumed the systems. I started talking to him about vacuum, he looks at me like I am from space. And that is the guy who does this for living and for years.
So if you patiently read my rumble down to this line, let’s put it all on ice. Let me see what I can do, and I’ll post the final results. Yes, I am very well aware of all the cautions and hazards. I have not only done “research” but have hands on experience from multiple cars.
With that being said, I appreciate everyone’s input and suggestions. I do. Forums saved me lots of headaches, money and gave me a lot of education. This is where I go first thing with questions and I serve with my experience and advice in 6 of them. I simply never used manifold before and had some questions. Most of them answered, thank you.All be well. Don’t get upset with me or think I’m a smart ars. I work on cars basically non stop, I feel, I am well entitled to some experience credit. But in this car case, there will be no another expensive “shop way”. She’s not worse it. It’s 2nd car in my life that really got on my nerve.
Thank you.
No, didn’t vacuum system. Will now. Now that I have all the tools.
No, I am not going to replace any more parts on this car. It’s lame, but it took so much of our money in such a short period of time, that I am tired of tossing $$ at her.
Only clutch went bad, long story. There should be no metal shards in dryer.I got it about manifolds. Matter of fact, out of curiosity, I just stepped out and put gauges onto the system.
Surprise. Somehow, there is ton of pressure in it, that’s after comp was removed and system was open for over a week, while we were waiting for comp to come in.
With engine NOT WORKING, L side showed 60 and H side showed 32. Clutch never kicked in after comp re-install. Where the pressure is from I don’t know.
Thank you.
No, didn’t vacuum system. Will now. Now that I have all the tools.
No, I am not going to replace any more parts on this car. It’s lame, but it took so much of our money in such a short period of time, that I am tired of tossing $$ at her.
Only clutch went bad, long story. There should be no metal shards in dryer.I got it about manifolds. Matter of fact, out of curiosity, I just stepped out and put gauges onto the system.
Surprise. Somehow, there is ton of pressure in it, that’s after comp was removed and system was open for over a week, while we were waiting for comp to come in.
With engine NOT WORKING, L side showed 60 and H side showed 32. Clutch never kicked in after comp re-install. Where the pressure is from I don’t know.