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Sold the car yesterday. As is. Buyer was clearly informed ac is not engaging.
Where it all stopped, was this:
1. replaced stems in L and H ports, just for the heck of it.
2. vacuumed system, shut down pump and went shopping. Came back, it was still at negative 31 on L side and whatever it was before I left on the H.
3. jumped clutch, it engages fine
4. Recharged system. Took in 1.5 300 g cans of ref-t. System is rated to 500 g of it, or 1.1 lb. Pressure on L side went all the way to around 100. Supposed to be 110 according to shop manual. Never moved on H and clutch won’t engage.
Considering it was Saturday, shops closed, and apparently beyond me on electrical (I did not want to jump clutch to force system) I simply lowered the price and adjusted ad, mentioning ac does what it does.
Sold her next day.
For what it is, it appears to be some sort of electrical malfunction. Maybe pressure switch, maybe relay. Who knows. I am decent mechanic, I am only basic knowledge electrician. I had Expo LRV with similar problem, and they found it was simply overcharged. Bled some freon out and it all worked fine. I have gut feeling, should they take car to ac shop, and actually have system fully evacuated+flushed+recharged, it’ll work just fine.
That’s where the odyssey stopped.
Thank you all for putting up with my stubbornness.Sold the car yesterday. As is. Buyer was clearly informed ac is not engaging.
Where it all stopped, was this:
1. replaced stems in L and H ports, just for the heck of it.
2. vacuumed system, shut down pump and went shopping. Came back, it was still at negative 31 on L side and whatever it was before I left on the H.
3. jumped clutch, it engages fine
4. Recharged system. Took in 1.5 300 g cans of ref-t. System is rated to 500 g of it, or 1.1 lb. Pressure on L side went all the way to around 100. Supposed to be 110 according to shop manual. Never moved on H and clutch won’t engage.
Considering it was Saturday, shops closed, and apparently beyond me on electrical (I did not want to jump clutch to force system) I simply lowered the price and adjusted ad, mentioning ac does what it does.
Sold her next day.
For what it is, it appears to be some sort of electrical malfunction. Maybe pressure switch, maybe relay. Who knows. I am decent mechanic, I am only basic knowledge electrician. I had Expo LRV with similar problem, and they found it was simply overcharged. Bled some freon out and it all worked fine. I have gut feeling, should they take car to ac shop, and actually have system fully evacuated+flushed+recharged, it’ll work just fine.
That’s where the odyssey stopped.
Thank you all for putting up with my stubbornness.What’s to think about? Functional app is free and cheapo dongle is around $8 or 9 ebay. Even full
App is only 5 bucks. Heluva fun for less than 15 dollars.
It’s a distractor too so placement is very crucial.What’s to think about? Functional app is free and cheapo dongle is around $8 or 9 ebay. Even full
App is only 5 bucks. Heluva fun for less than 15 dollars.
It’s a distractor too so placement is very crucial.Hi Eric.
His car is 95-99 model, he might as well have bleeder on t-stat housing.
But none of our modern cars in garage has them. Nor expansion canisters in the old fashion, nor radiator caps. They are all sealed systems with high pressure reservoirs instead of air open expansion canisters.
Even my wife’s 99 RX300 does not have bleeder.
But then they all have those reservoirs very high level up above the radiator and hoses, and entire system simply burps itself into that reservoir. Just did 08 Mazdadspeed. Was easiest “bleed” ever. Had to do nothing, fill her up, run, drive, come back, add a little bit to reservoir, boom, done.Hi Eric.
His car is 95-99 model, he might as well have bleeder on t-stat housing.
But none of our modern cars in garage has them. Nor expansion canisters in the old fashion, nor radiator caps. They are all sealed systems with high pressure reservoirs instead of air open expansion canisters.
Even my wife’s 99 RX300 does not have bleeder.
But then they all have those reservoirs very high level up above the radiator and hoses, and entire system simply burps itself into that reservoir. Just did 08 Mazdadspeed. Was easiest “bleed” ever. Had to do nothing, fill her up, run, drive, come back, add a little bit to reservoir, boom, done.Not sure what is meant by “not adjustable”. Each arm moves up-down and in-out. Of course there are some limitations, but… How complicated does it have to be truly> With every additional articulation only prone to breakage?
Works much better than regular compressors, which I had for years.
Compresses just fine. I don’t care if it’s few lbs difference. It does the job fast, safe, and furious.
[URL=http://s302.photobucket.com/user/ukrkoz/media/07%20Camry%20rear%20strut%20replacement/20131116_090504_zps2d596531.jpg.html][IMG]http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn101/ukrkoz/07%20Camry%20rear%20strut%20replacement/20131116_090504_zps2d596531.jpg[/IMG][/URL]Not sure what is meant by “not adjustable”. Each arm moves up-down and in-out. Of course there are some limitations, but… How complicated does it have to be truly> With every additional articulation only prone to breakage?
Works much better than regular compressors, which I had for years.
Compresses just fine. I don’t care if it’s few lbs difference. It does the job fast, safe, and furious.
[URL=http://s302.photobucket.com/user/ukrkoz/media/07%20Camry%20rear%20strut%20replacement/20131116_090504_zps2d596531.jpg.html][IMG]http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn101/ukrkoz/07%20Camry%20rear%20strut%20replacement/20131116_090504_zps2d596531.jpg[/IMG][/URL]I have Torque for well over 5 months. Had it connected to 2 vehicles but had to remove OBD2 adapter from my Camry Hybrid as it caused some ABS codes.
I am very much happy with app.
Gives well of knowledge on your power train.
My favorite part is you can set display as HUD and then set phone on your dash, and use reflection on windshield as HUD. Pretty cool.
I know folks undust old large display Android phones and use them just for this purpose.
Takes some time to figure proper location, but thereafter, it’s pretty cool toy. Much cheaper than say Scangaguge.
Also, you can change engine PIDs with this app. Which is tuning.
I give guy 6 out of 5 starts on app.I have Torque for well over 5 months. Had it connected to 2 vehicles but had to remove OBD2 adapter from my Camry Hybrid as it caused some ABS codes.
I am very much happy with app.
Gives well of knowledge on your power train.
My favorite part is you can set display as HUD and then set phone on your dash, and use reflection on windshield as HUD. Pretty cool.
I know folks undust old large display Android phones and use them just for this purpose.
Takes some time to figure proper location, but thereafter, it’s pretty cool toy. Much cheaper than say Scangaguge.
Also, you can change engine PIDs with this app. Which is tuning.
I give guy 6 out of 5 starts on app.If I understood you correct, you have t-sta removed? And fans start? And car still overheats?
I am yet to see a car that will overheat with t-stat removed and fans blowing, as it’s basically free coolant flow and cold air supply.
Unless you have 2 things happening:
1. blown head gasket, resulting in hot exhaust getting into coolant and overheat
2. physical obstruction somewhere in the system, which the simplest one is a collapsed hose. Sometimes they have inner lining peal off and block coolant flow, or deter it enough to act as closed t-stat.
Or, you have air lock, but you claim to have bled the system.
I’d actually start with checking for exhaust leak into coolant.
If that checks out, locate both upper and lower radiator hose and feel them by hand at operating temp. If they are same by touch, you have unobstructed flow. If one is cooler – well, read #2.If I understood you correct, you have t-sta removed? And fans start? And car still overheats?
I am yet to see a car that will overheat with t-stat removed and fans blowing, as it’s basically free coolant flow and cold air supply.
Unless you have 2 things happening:
1. blown head gasket, resulting in hot exhaust getting into coolant and overheat
2. physical obstruction somewhere in the system, which the simplest one is a collapsed hose. Sometimes they have inner lining peal off and block coolant flow, or deter it enough to act as closed t-stat.
Or, you have air lock, but you claim to have bled the system.
I’d actually start with checking for exhaust leak into coolant.
If that checks out, locate both upper and lower radiator hose and feel them by hand at operating temp. If they are same by touch, you have unobstructed flow. If one is cooler – well, read #2.Oh, and don’t forget one thing. After done with replacements, pull ECM fuse out overnight. It will remove all stored “habits” and ECM will learn new parts from scratch.
Oh, and don’t forget one thing. After done with replacements, pull ECM fuse out overnight. It will remove all stored “habits” and ECM will learn new parts from scratch.
I am big fan of HALO plugs. For performance and better mpg. Yes, I did use them without ANY issues on Honda. 04 CR-V, to be more precise. They are a bit more expensive comparing to NGK, but I have very good track record with them on Lexus, Honda, GM, and Toyota. Spark they produce is amazing. Bosch was trying to copy them but they can’t close the crown due to patent.
But indeed, for straight swap, NGK is likely da best choice.