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Fill tank and pour entire can in.
Seafoam doe not have neck, suitable for gas tanks, so get yourself narrow funnel, or you won’t be able to pour it in.
Then go on FWY and put her on cruise control for about an hour or so.
Also, Seafom engine oil before every oil change. Pour can in and just drive around, as normal, for a day or two.
Word from someone who uses Seafoam on all of his cars and engines since 2002.Yeah, it jerks some when shfting, likely to R. R usually gives the worst jolt. But, otherwise, accelerating it does not appear to be anything major. As in – engine mounts.
Also, engine mounts related vibration is the worse during start up and sort of smooths out as engine warms up and vibration reduces. It’ll manifest itself again going over bumps or potholes, as then entire power train jerks.
I’d check drive axles. They go unbalanced or bad. Does not have to be torn boot to point it out. Also, make sure you have hub bearing and control arm bushings totally checked out. I saw you said you did but for CA bushings you need to take a LONG prybar to them, so not sure how they were checked.Simply pour can of Seafom into crankcase, drive for a week, drain oil, refill with cheapest oil in your weight you can buy, run engine ,occasionally holding at 2500 rpm for 15-20 seconds, for about 15 minutes. Drain replace filter and oil with good oil.
DONE.
I’d be staying far far away from MMO and B12. Bad experiences.So you have a “blend” and then you have “pure” synth. What is that you are driving that you are concerned about this? Unless it’s a high end Mercedes or something, I wouldn’t be worried about minor differences in lubrication. Or a super charged motor with nitros.
COST is more of concern as if you have oil taking engine, it will cost you arm and leg in refills.“drives straight” with hand off the steering wheel for several hundred feet?
As what you replaced could have not possibly influenced steering wheel UNLESS alignment is totally wrong.
Did you at any point disconnect intermediate steering shaft from rack and pinion? That is the only way that under CORRECT alignment you skipped a tooth or two reconnecting it and now have SW crooked.
I think what CM was telling you was to have wheels lined straight (how do you know, actually?) then disconnect the ISS from R&P, straighten SW and reconnect ISS.
Take her to the shop. Alignment is wrong.I’d start with checking on Woodroff key fit and is the slot for it is not too loose.
You have timing marks on the crank pulley. Reason you have many is because when you ctart the engine, you adjust timing with dizzy to bring pointer between marks whatever it is to be for your car. Aren’t you setting marks by pulleys that are actually under the covers?
Just for your entertainment:1. Do NOT use ceramic pads. That’s main cause of squeal or rub.
2. Look at your rotors? Are they glazed? As in – looking like a mirror? Glass shiny? If yes, that’s 2nd component to your squeal.
If I am right on both cases, all you need to do is to take rotors off, take high speed grinder with rough sand paper on it to it, and take glaze off in circular motion. It’s actually much easier to do on the back side as hub hump is not getting in your way. But you should see nice criss cross from sand paper. Same principle as honing cylinder walls.
Then install decent price semi mets. IMMEDIATELY do bed in procedure. If you can’t “get around the corner” to do it, creep to proper street barely touching brakes, as you do not want to build up any pad material on rptprs at this point. Then RIP it. Get them bedded in and be happy.Well, here’s Tire Rack article:
Replacing Pairs of Tires or Individual Tires
There are several suggestions that have been offered to drivers who are replacing pairs or individual tires on their four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles. Some vehicle manufacturers recommend that all tires maintain the same rolling radius and circumference, while others suggest that all tire circumferences remain within 1/4- to 1/2-inch of each other. Other vehicle manufacturers recommend that all four tires remain within 2/32-, 3/32- or 4/32-inch of each other, or within 30% of each other in relative remaining tread depth.
Regardless of the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations, the least stressful application is when all four tires are the same tire brand, tread design and equivalent tread depth.
Before buying pairs or individual tires for all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles, drivers should read their vehicle’s owners manual or contact the dealer’s service department for confirmation of their specific vehicle’s requirements.
What he ^^^^ said and on areas where pads sit on bracket. Where little square cutouts in pad plate are. Old cars don’t but new ones have little spring loaded clips there that always look like crap. They need to be removed, cleaned with spray cleaner and toothbrush, reinstalled and lubricated. Yes, you’ll get some grease onto rotors during that but it’s OK.
Most reliable way is to stop by any close by tire shop and they will tell you exactly what tire will fit your rim.
2002… So she has about over 100 000 miles on ticker, right? You being a good Samaritan, which is very commendable, did change rear differential, front differential, and transfer case fluids, right? Or else it WILL cost a lot of money to replace those parts. It’s 4Runner, you know, those run all the time, pun intended.
Many “aftermarket” manufacturers are exactly same people that make OEM parts. Then they obtain license for market resale of the same parts from car manufacturer and here ya go – same part, just much less. Not all manufacturers sell those licenses, Mazda won’t, so you have to cope with horrendous parts pricing and dealer only from Mazda.
That being said, your job is to find those same guys that make those parts and buy from them. Go to toyotanation forum, you’ll easily find links to on;line retailers like this.
Btw, been a year since wife’s LexusRx300 runs on FOUR “cheap” ignition packs from O’Reilly – for quarter of OEM list price. Frugality is good.Removing ECM fuse for some time resets ECM by powering it down.
If you want to do hard reboot, remove both battery cables and then touch cable terminals together. This is said to remove all leftover power in the system. Other way is to remove cables and hold horn button down for some time. Same purpose – drain entire everything.
I doubt though you’ll get out easy. from this issue. Find a decent mobile electrician off craigslist.