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Tyler

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Viewing 15 replies - 46 through 60 (of 147 total)
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  • in reply to: Hey Eric & Company Brakes #509577
    TylerTyler
    Participant

      Let’s see if i can help

      1) I found mine at Central supplies ( Building supply store, same as home depot basically)
      2)i found that if you just wrap electrical tape to get the same thickness does the same thing. but if you wanted the tubing usualy auto part stores will have the fuel line.
      3) When it’s broken or stuck you can, with very very light heat but beware you can ruin all of your rubbers, and may need new caliper. If it’s broken off i’ve seen people drill them out and tap them oversize. But as they taught me in school your supposed to “replace” the caliper

      in reply to: Hey Eric & Company Brakes #507673
      TylerTyler
      Participant

        Let’s see if i can help

        1) I found mine at Central supplies ( Building supply store, same as home depot basically)
        2)i found that if you just wrap electrical tape to get the same thickness does the same thing. but if you wanted the tubing usualy auto part stores will have the fuel line.
        3) When it’s broken or stuck you can, with very very light heat but beware you can ruin all of your rubbers, and may need new caliper. If it’s broken off i’ve seen people drill them out and tap them oversize. But as they taught me in school your supposed to “replace” the caliper

        in reply to: Working in my friends 05 Chrysler 300c hemmi #509500
        TylerTyler
        Participant

          I’m not sure if i’m going to be any help but if the timing jumped a tooth then it would run like poop most of the time ( or in some cases one even run at all ) i don’t think it has anything to do with the timing it may have something to do with the chain being stretched. Another speculation is that it may have to do something with the computer ( if they arn’t coordinating) i’ve did some re-search and they said you may need to re-learn the computer of the car. I hope this helped.

          in reply to: Working in my friends 05 Chrysler 300c hemmi #507624
          TylerTyler
          Participant

            I’m not sure if i’m going to be any help but if the timing jumped a tooth then it would run like poop most of the time ( or in some cases one even run at all ) i don’t think it has anything to do with the timing it may have something to do with the chain being stretched. Another speculation is that it may have to do something with the computer ( if they arn’t coordinating) i’ve did some re-search and they said you may need to re-learn the computer of the car. I hope this helped.

            in reply to: Low brake pressure #509495
            TylerTyler
            Participant

              Well most e-brake are cable actuated, some are hydraulic, i never worked on a daewoo look at the back brakes and if theres a cable going to it then it’s cable actuated if theres a line then most likely it hydraulic.

              in reply to: Low brake pressure #507618
              TylerTyler
              Participant

                Well most e-brake are cable actuated, some are hydraulic, i never worked on a daewoo look at the back brakes and if theres a cable going to it then it’s cable actuated if theres a line then most likely it hydraulic.

                in reply to: Apprentice flat rate #509463
                TylerTyler
                Participant

                  I don’t blame you. If your going to be making good money i’d say stay. But myself i would resort to a dealer last. I want to learn on all makes and models

                  in reply to: Apprentice flat rate #507589
                  TylerTyler
                  Participant

                    I don’t blame you. If your going to be making good money i’d say stay. But myself i would resort to a dealer last. I want to learn on all makes and models

                    in reply to: Redneck Engine Build (funny) #507378
                    TylerTyler
                    Participant

                      It costs $20 to get a ring compressor ( http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Piston-Ring-Compressor-Ratchet-Band-Style-Removal-Install-Set-7-to-2-1-8-Large-/370770349719?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5653a28e97&vxp=mtr ) this is the one i usualy use it works fine, and probably if you looked around another 20-30 for the pliers. I wonder if that ran.

                      in reply to: Redneck Engine Build (funny) #509241
                      TylerTyler
                      Participant

                        It costs $20 to get a ring compressor ( http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Piston-Ring-Compressor-Ratchet-Band-Style-Removal-Install-Set-7-to-2-1-8-Large-/370770349719?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5653a28e97&vxp=mtr ) this is the one i usualy use it works fine, and probably if you looked around another 20-30 for the pliers. I wonder if that ran.

                        in reply to: Low brake pressure #507367
                        TylerTyler
                        Participant

                          I’m with drth get it towed, if you get pulled over with a unsafe vehicle, you may pay more in fines than the tow may be worth.

                          in reply to: Low brake pressure #509235
                          TylerTyler
                          Participant

                            I’m with drth get it towed, if you get pulled over with a unsafe vehicle, you may pay more in fines than the tow may be worth.

                            in reply to: Collision Damage Inspection (Suspension) #507365
                            TylerTyler
                            Participant

                              I’m guessing a pain! When i replaced the stablizer bushing on the stablizer bar, i had to drop the subframe down a inch or two so i could get access to the bolt, you could have probably gone through the top but it was on the rack, so i said what the hell.

                              Note: Those are some funky tires he has on that car too LOL

                              in reply to: Collision Damage Inspection (Suspension) #509233
                              TylerTyler
                              Participant

                                I’m guessing a pain! When i replaced the stablizer bushing on the stablizer bar, i had to drop the subframe down a inch or two so i could get access to the bolt, you could have probably gone through the top but it was on the rack, so i said what the hell.

                                Note: Those are some funky tires he has on that car too LOL

                                in reply to: 1994 Chevy Suburban Need to Replace Drivers Seat #509231
                                TylerTyler
                                Participant

                                  I would presume that any of the 90’s silverados, possibly sierra’s would fit, ( before they changed the body style) just check the mounting locations and if they are the same they will fit. But when i go to work monday i’ll look on alldata if you still havn’t found the answer.

                                Viewing 15 replies - 46 through 60 (of 147 total)
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