Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Ok followed what you showed me but still a little lost. Is it possible that one of thewhitewires is crossed for the heater? Here is how it is main harness black w yellow tracer to white heater wire, main harness blackw whites racer to heater wire, main harness red w yellow tracer to grey , main harness white w red tracer to black. When I test heater circuit with ohm meter is now showed 5.2 ohms. I have 12 volt at main harness black and yellow wire ( hot), 12 volts at red and yellow ( ground), is there a way to tell if heater wires are backwards or should I assume they are backwards. Originally they had the 2 sensors plugged in wrong. They had the upstream plugged into the doenstream O2, downstream plugged into upstream. No heater Cricut problem then. Heater circuit problem occurred when I switched them to where they should be. Thanks for your help to this point.
My code reader does not allow me to look at fuel trim. I replaced the down stream o2 sensor with a aftermarket one. While trying to figure out what’s going on I got an error code showing misfire cylinder 4. The plugs are like 4 months old. I put new wires , new coil,new cat. Switched plugs around. I put cylinder2 in cylinder 4 and vise versa. Misfire went to cylinder 2. Changed all plugs again. So far no codes. Will keep updating.
Ok worked on the dodge caravan again. Replaced cat. Found out that there was another issue that computer did not show. Had a misfire on more than one cylinder. Replaced plug wires. No change. Decided to change the coil. Then it ran good again. The exception was only when at operating temp. When it was cold it would misfire but computer kicked it up and gave me cylinder 4 misfiring. Checked plugs they all look the same. Switched plugs in cylinders 2,4. Runs like a champ again even cold. Took out on a test drive today and cat efficiency code back. Couldn’t have burned up cat didn’t run that long. It’s new. Kinda lost. Van doesn’t seem like it’s missing runs like it used to. It will even spin tires like it used to. No popping sound like I had before. So now I’m a list as to what to check. Any ideas?
I did not remove the cat in the first place. I just acquired the car because owner couldn’t pay his bills so he sold it to me. Thought it was too good to be true that there would be nothing wrong with it. Hasn’t given me any problems til now. That is why I asked that question. Passed emissions 2 years ago but not now
I have been working on this can for a few days now. However I cannot get a video of the noise because you gave to be driving down the road. I tried to make a video but you can’t hear the noise. I have taken injectors out and had them checked out. They claim they are ok. I happen to notice that the top of the spark plugs where the wire connects at are showing signs of getting hot. They have a blue tint to them. I was checking foil and also noticed that one post showed a sign of being what call burnt. When I put the van back together it ran good but when I took on test drive started that noise again. This noise does not do it when I tried to brake torque it. So that idea didn’t work for me to get the video of the noise. When I hit the plugs from parts store I got platinum plugs. They said it was an upgrade from what I had. 3 of the old plugs had no electrode on the bottom of the plug. Could it be the coil causing the blue tint on the tops of the plugs or not hot enough of plugs for the van? I have to put some miles on it to see if cat code is still present. The noise I believe is actually coming from closer to the cat than the manifold but unsure because it will only do it when driving down the road under a load and accelerating like to go up a hill or to pass another car. Any ideas of how I can get a video of the noise would be appreciated. I know none of you are here to hear it and is hard to say what to do.
Yes. And over the last couple of weeks it starting to get worse. Being a flex fuel car I put E85 in it to see if it would help. A few months back the E 85 did help but now it is not. I would think that if the cat was plugged up it would be glowing under car. I don’t see that as of yet. With the E85 I have to let van warm up a bit or it chugs along until it warms up. Then after operating temp it starts the noise. I will make a video of it tonight with some help because it only does this when you have the van in gear and driving. Worse case I will have to brake torque it so the noise will happen for video
No not an exhaust leak. I will try to make a video of the noise for everyone to gear. The problem I will have with making the video is it only makes this noise while in gear and driving. No noises at idle. Will post video later tonight after I get off work. Maybe the sound it’s making might help figure out what problem is.
Messed with the truck today. What I did today was put some cardboard in front of radiator. It heated up got close to 230 degrees. Stopped and let cool off and removed some of the cardboard. Now runs at 205-210 and has heat. I know that the cardboard was a long shot but I wanted to see what it would do. Can it be not getting hot enough in the first place or can it still have air in system.
I have been messing around with this van for a while. Check fuel pressure. Pressure ok. Have not checked coil pack or try to see which cylinder is missing. But to add to the confusion of all this. being a flex fuel vehicle I ran 1 tank of e85 in it. When that tank got to 1/8 tank started to run bad gain. Put regular gas in it and started running good again. Thinking something in bottom of tank. When you go up an incline or try to go into passing gear I hear 3 pops and it will then go. A friend at work said he heard my van making a noise but sounded like a metallic sound popping sound. Can the axle or wheel bearing make this sound only under load? He said it almost like the axle is slipping. Not sure where else to look.
At this time the only code is a small very small leak in evaporate system. I checked secondary resistance on coil it shows 12,300 ohms. Thinking that is low considering they say 10,000 – 19,000 ohms. Checked plug for injector harness seems good but will check wires more closely. Is there a range for degree for timing. Was looking a code reader say ignition timing 45 degrees but that wa at like almost 3,000 rpm’s. Can timing be an issue. Van has 207,0000 not sure when it was it was changed or if it has ever been changed. Still has power just small popping through throttlebody
No I have not checked those yet. I will have to rent one. Here is what I have done so far. I was thinking water in bottom of tank so. I put some e 85 in it. Drove fine. Then a couple of pops through throttle body and straightened out. Parked in drive way and at idle it’s ok but when you rev it up it will start popping through throttle body.
Well I will say THANK YOU t everyone who took the time to help me fix my car. I am glad you were persistent in me checking wiring to find the short. I finally found the source of the problem. There was 3 wires connected to one. I thought someone else did that but when I checked my daily it has the same thing. After repairing that I kept blowing Ecu fuses as I stated before. Could not figure out where short was. So I figured I would make the fuel pump hot and Dar would run. When checking for power at pump it was dead. Dead at relay. Swapped relay still no fuel. Went to pump to make sure it was good and found that the wires on fuel pump crossed. Switched wires and it runs. THANK YOU for all your help! I hope someday I can help someone just as you all do.
Thank you for the information. I will look and see about wiring diagram. I will do some more checking but at least I have something to work with to get me started. Thank you again.
Well I took your advice and finally traced down the source of my wires not being hot. Found where what looks like where the wires were tired together. Assuming factory. I repaired those wires and tested plug with test light show power at a25 , b1. When I plugged the ecm in and turned ignition to start position the Ecu fuse blew in fuse box under dash. The check engine light stayed on but the battery light went out on dash. Guess I have another wire shorting out but not sure where to even begin. Any ideas on where to even start to figure it out? I have opened Ecu looks brand new inside. I see no burn marks on board. Can I try plugging in one plug at a time on Ecu and see at what point the fuse starts blowing? Or unplug all sensors and one by one plug in til fuse blows? Wiring is not my speciality.
Update on 91 accord. Ran new grounds. Checked ignition switch. Put main relay and Ecuador in my daily and works fine. Tells me wiring issue. I found a Pinout for the ecu and going to start there. What I think is that the ecu is not getting feedback from sensors. No injectors clicking. No spark from coil. Even if I swap dizzy from one car to the other. Any other ideas? Help me please!