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I wanted. To let everyone know that I finally figured out the issue with the iat. After tracing the wiring harness to find no broken wires I got the wiring diagram with color code for wiring. I found that the iat and charcoal canister purge have the same plug and they were reversed according to diagram color code. I switched them and iat temp went down. I took car on test drive and o2 monitors set but cat did not. Took a while for the cat monitor to set ut it finally happened. What a lesson. Thanks to all that have helped. Learned a lot from this.
Thank you for the link for testing. I will follow it and let you know what I find. The pending code is P0111. The scan tool shows the it is reading 370 degrees all the time. My old ecu never had any pending codes. But it still had reading of 370 degrees. Runs good. No missing. Just could not get out of readiness for O2 and cat monitors. I did find that my old ecu # 37820-p2e-a01, new ecu 37820-p2e-a02. Called Honda was told that it was a newer ecu but still compatible. Using ohm meter sensor reading open 1600 and continues to climb. Tried to test for open wire. Red lead on red wire with yellow tracer and black lead to ground. No voltage. Checked for contenutity red lead in other wire and black lead to ground no contenutity. Didn’t try jumping wire yet. Remember my reading is 370 even when it is unplugged. Think shortly in wiring harness. Question I have is to check ecu to see if wire is bad. Should the key be on engine off. Red lead to back side of connector to ECU and black to ground. Is that correct? Got another iat and using ohm meter it is at 1600. Shouldn’t it be lower than that? But I will follow your link and check everything. Thank you for your time. Will keep everyone up to date with testing. All help is appreciated very much. Can you tell me is the wire for it in d connector for ecu. Noticed I have 2 wires with same color. Which pin should I be checking?
Thanks for the info. Here is what I did. Jacked up car. Hit brake pedal and then tried to spin the wheel. Would not spin right away. Sit for about 30-45 seconds and it spins again. Tried to push caliper piston back in caliper and if was hard to do. I then loosed the line from caliper and it was still hard to push piston back. I put new caliper on and it spins as soon as you let off brake. Took for test drive and the wheel is not getting hot like it was. Told her we will keep an eye on it for a few days and see. Still might need brake hose. I hope I did it right for her and don’t need hose.
Well here is a update to my o2 problems. After taking car to have theo2 moved I learned that my 96 civic originally had 2 cats on it. Didn’t know that. Well the upstream o2 was not going to work by moving it. According to shop the o2 needs to sense the heat from the cat that is part of the manifold. Without that the car will not come out of readiness cycle. I bought the car with a blown motor and the header on it already. What an expensive lesson. I have not heard of that before. Does this sound right? Shop is guarrantying that it will now pass emissions. After about 680.00 it better. Let me know if this sounds right to all of you. Thank you to all that have been trying to help me out.
That is what I was thinking too. I am confused about this. Ordered new upstream O2 and it shows on their site that it can be used as an upstream and downstream. Thought that they were different. Are they the same? As long as they are both 4 wire.
I have not reset pcm or Ecu. I have no codes, nothing as pending either. Do I need to reset since I put new sat on?
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The numbers given are all short term. Fluctuates between -10 & -14. The long term is 0. Rechecked when I got home from work and short term fluctuates between 0 and – 5.5. Checked all spark plugs assuming stuck injector but no excess fuel there. Checked for intake leak using carb and throttle body cleaner no leak found. Checked air filter it’s good. Seems to run good and no power loss. Could the Pcm or Ecu still be learning because of new cat? Or should I be looking elsewhere. Not much time left.have about 11 days left on my temp registration. Not sure what else to check. ThanksNeed help understanding fuel trim. Put new cat on and car still stuck in readiness. Fuel trim numbers are in the negatives. Is this normal? O2 output for upstream in around .9 downstream at idle is .25. fuel trim runs around -10 / -14. Cars runs good no missing. Does this mean burning rich?
Ok new O2 didn’t solve issue. Put new cat on. Would you happen to know the drive cycle that needs to be done? Beginning to think bad Ecu. Want to try drive cycle first but don’t know what it is and the dealer will not tell me. They say bring it in and they will check it out. Not wanting to pay 110.00 per hour for them to attempt to fix it. Thanks.
Ok. Installed new O2. Cleared codes. Drove car in town and highway for 70 miles over a course of 3 days. Car is still in drive cycle. I tried driving at 60 mph for 5 minutes sat for 5 minutes and did the same on the way back. Still in drive cycle. Question I have is the speedo is off by 10 mph. Do I do the drive cycle according to speedo or my gps. Or does Honda have a particular drive cycle. I have not found many threads for Honda drive cycles. I have just under half tank of gas. Heard that you need to have a certain amount of gas or drive cycle won’t work. Thanks in advance.
I want to say Thank You for your help. Took a while to figure it out. Traced everything. I currently have it torn apart. Bought new O2 sensor.should fix it. Used ohm meter to find that it’s part of the O2 positive. Had 5 volts and checked ground. Seems ok. Has ground. Did test you sent me and I believe it’s bad heater. Thanks for your help.
Can you explain this wiring to me. The white wire with red tracer is for the ground to secondary o2 sensor. That wire is dead but if I touch the loose wire showing outside of sheathing it is grounded. The loose wire goes to the brown wire with black tracer which is grounded at the block by thermostat housing. Is this actually a wire?