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I just picked up a 140pc Stanley Black Max tool kit from Costco, it has 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch sockets in metric and SAE. Also comes with Allan wrenches for the socket driver, screw drivers, 2 spark plug sockets, and open end wrenches. Best of all is laser etched sockets so I can easily see what size I’m grabbing,
Cost was $69.
escape1,
try this- measure continuity (or resistance) in ohms between the negative terminal of your battery and the negative terminal of your fuel pump. According to the schematic it should be fractions of an ohm.
By your results I am suspecting an open ground since you can’t get a reading on the negative side. We should at least rule this out anyways.
Do not do this test on the positive side…
The last pic of the joint with the split boot is most concerning to me. You need to replace that yesterday…..as you don’t want to be driving when that goes.
Thanks for your very well written reply. I had been putting Techcron from Costco with every oil change but also noted no change in MPG or performance as well. Sounds like the gas I’m buying as you suggested is already doing the job.
If you really have 6.65V on the pump that means you are losing almost 6V somewhere. Is there a relay that turn this pump on? If so it could have pitted contacts.
It sounds like you might have an intermittent break in the wiring or connections leading down to the pump. When you replaced the previous pumps maybe the moving of the wires temporarily restored your connection? Next time the pump stops maybe you do a resistance check with a DVM to see if you see the coil resistance of the pump through the wire harness from the start.
I use Mobil 1 for my Civic because the maintenance has me changing the oil about every 8000 miles.
Used to use a Motocraft Synthetic blend in a Ford Ranger I used to own and noticed a big improvement with cold weather starting as the engine turned over much quicker.
I also noticed that my Civic calls for ATF Z1 transmission fluid but it is not readily available anymore as Honda changed to a synthetic formula called ATF DW1.
In my van I use valvoline MaxLife ATF fluid that is synthetic and I think it shifts much smoother.
I would like to try valvoline’s synthetic motor oil has anyone tried it?
You may have a faulty voltage regulator but if your DVM can measure current you should pull the wire off the positive terminal of your battery and put the DVM in current setting in series between the. Positive terminal of the battery and the wire to rule out any leakage that could be loading things down and possibly damaging the alternator and or regulator.
I think if don’t have one now you should get a DVM that can measure both voltage and current. They aren’t that expensive.
Then you can measure the voltage the alternator/voltage regulator is putting out by measuring battery voltage while your car is running.
Eric has a great video on how to do this just search on his website.
I’ve been using valvoline max life synthetic in my Toyota sienna and it seems to work pretty well for me.
The owners manual for my 2008 Civic is very specific in that you check ATF level after waiting 30 seconds after shutting engine off but before 90 seconds has elasped. Weird.
You probably have some leakage draining your battery overnight. The link below is from another thread on this site where there are many excellent suggestions on how to find the parasitic draw on your battery.
[url=http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topics.aspx?ID=112:qaty1m1m]http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topics.aspx?ID=112
K[/url]eep us posted on what you find and good luck.