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You could always use ramps instead of jacking the car up. It won’t be level but I use ramps without issues.
I had the exact symptoms that you had when I changed the rear drums/shoes on my 2008 Honda Civic. They were new drums but not OEM and this knocking/pulsing was a new problem after the work I just did, so I removed the new drums and put the old Honda OEM original drums back on for troubleshooting purposes.
Also, I had bought non OEM brake shoes online and it turns out they didn’t even fit at all so I ended up buying Honda shoes.
That fixed everything so I said screw it, just left the old OEM drums on and left it alone. Those drums have 198,000 miles on them and they perform great.
The most likely cause for a resistive connection will be corrosion. If you have a floating ground, you should be able to see that as a voltage higher than ground on your DMM on what is supposed to be ground (0V). If you put your negative lead of the DMM on battery neg post than, with the positive DMM lead start measuring at the ground terminal of the 02 sensor- work your way back to the negative battery post. When the voltage suddenly jumps from >4V to 0V, you have found your resistance.
For example, measure o2 sensor ground at the sensor, then measure it right at the ECU, then measure ECU ground, then at each connection point leading back to the battery neg post.
I doubt the reverse protection diode is at the ground of the ECU, if that was the case the sensor ground voltage could never reach 0V per spec.
I think you might have a resistive connection on the o2 sensor ground terminal back to the ECU that switches it to ground. It doesn’t take much resistance to cause that 4V reading you are seeing and this resistance might be low enough for you to believe that the wiring is good. Another possibility is that the ECU doesn’t have a perfect path to ground which could cause the same reading you are seeing.
I suggest measuring O2 sensor ground right at the ECU while the sensor is on and also measure edu ground when the sensor is on as well. Put your DMM ground right on battery negative terminal when you are doing this.
What does it say in your owners manual? If it doesn’t say synthetic is required I would just leave it alone till the next oil change cycle.
Is the O2 sensor ground a direct connect back to battery ground or is it a switched (open collector) switched ground?
Could you post a schematic here?
My experiences are the same: as a DIY’er, I have installed 4 sets of Cardone rebuilt brake calipers and all have failed within a year. I was able to get free exchange under warranty but it’s still a lot of work to repeat the job over and over again.
I just completed the job today. It took me 3 hours only because I haven’t done a lot of DIY work. But your tip about hitting the inner clamp of the tie rod boot worked like a charm- 2 sharp wacks with a long screwdriver and hammer and it just fell right off.
The old inner tie rod was rusty and then I noted a tear in the old boot. Luckily I had another boot. The hardest part of the job was bending the washer over the flats of the new inner tie rod. There was no room. Finally I just used a large channel lock pliers and just crimped it down using the actual joint as leverage. I didn’t like doing this but I just couldn’t get a hammer and punch in there.
Also difficult was getting the new boot over the inner part of the steering rack. Finally I used a heat gun low setting to warm the boot up to make it more pliable- also lubed it with silicone spray.
Now it’s off to get an alignment, which is not too far off thanks to Eric’s latest inner tie rod video where he measured the length of the inner=outer tie rod assembly because the new tie rod was quite different than the old one negating the counting of threads trick.
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=164362]What’s funny in a sad way about that, is that Honda doesn’t officially support using an inner tie rod tool. Using the Honda labour guide any inner tie rod is about 5 hours, or how ever long it takes to drop the subframe, pull the rack, change the inner tie rod and put it all back together. Meanwhile any other labour guide lists it around 1.5-2.0 hours. The latter is more accurate.
You might be able to get your hands on an inner tie rod tool kit through a loan-a-tool program.
The hardest part is usually getting the inner clamp off the boot. I usually just use a pry bar and give it a couple of whacks at the crimp. When you put it back together, you can just use an automotive grade UV resistant ziptie to secure the inside of the boot.[/quote]
Thanks, I bought tool and just used it today on my 2008 Civic, it worked great. For the price it was great.
[quote=”peshewa” post=164350]I’ve changed a lot of tie rods, but I’m not sure if I’ve done them in a civic like yours. I use this simple tool to remove inner tie rods.
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=164362]What’s funny in a sad way about that, is that Honda doesn’t officially support using an inner tie rod tool. Using the Honda labour guide any inner tie rod is about 5 hours, or how ever long it takes to drop the subframe, pull the rack, change the inner tie rod and put it all back together. Meanwhile any other labour guide lists it around 1.5-2.0 hours. The latter is more accurate.
You might be able to get your hands on an inner tie rod tool kit through a loan-a-tool program.
The hardest part is usually getting the inner clamp off the boot. I usually just use a pry bar and give it a couple of whacks at the crimp. When you put it back together, you can just use an automotive grade UV resistant ziptie to secure the inside of the boot.[/quote]
I suspected that was the case. Thanks for the tip, I was wondering how I was going to get the inner boot band off. Will report back next weekend to update.
Do the map lights work ?
I checked the schematics and it shows that they share the same power feed from the fuse box that also passes through the under dash fuse/relay box, so if the map lights work you know the power feed is good up to the under dash box.
Let me know thanks.
[quote=”dblisle” post=157567]This is more prevalent in the computer industry over the automotive industry. For instance, Apple has been purposely slowing down the OS of their older device in order for you to come in and buy the new one.
I have an iPad 2 that was fast up until the release of the most recent iPad and now it crawls.[/quote]
Same thing happened to me, so I replaced my IPAD2 with a Samsung Galaxy tablet and couldn’t be happier.
Nice, I noticed there is even a saw blade should you need to extract fresh coconut juice for a pina colada 🙂
There might be a screen at the bottom of the power steering reservoir that may have caught all that debris. You should check/clean if it is clogged up.