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On the flip side, since you git the lift, your camera shots have given us a much clearer views deep into the vehicle. This makes it a very worthy trade off.
Ok, the battery measured borderline “weak” on my Harbor Freight load tester but the real issue I saw is that, while running and headlight and blower motor on full speed, there is only 13V on the battery terminals.
Then I moved the negative DMM lead over to the frame of the alternator and then I got over 14V. To double check, I measured about 1.1V between the negative battery post and the frame of the alternator.
So this weekend I plan to chase my ground connections around the engine bay and clean them up- everything looks corroded in there due to no splash guard under the engine bay to protect from salt spray in the winter.
Thanks for the spot on tips.
Thanks for the suggestions. When I get home from work I will load test the battery as well as measuring it’s running voltage. It’s not a new battery > 5 years.
If you drove it for any amount to time without a working charging system it would very quickly drain your battery leaving you without enough to start it next time you attempt to drive it.
Have you ruled out a charging issue? Try measuring the battery voltage while the car is running- it should be over 13.5V
If both filaments share the same ground somewhere, when one filament has current flowing through it, the ground voltage seen at the bulb will show a small voltage due to ohm law (V=IR) and the small wiring resistance, the ground on the unlit bulb will show the same 200-300mV you are reading (because they probably share that ground). You would probably measure 200-300mV on both terminals of the unlit bulb because the filament has little resistance and whatever switch or relay controlling the bulb is in a open state.
Because you mentioned that it’s worse in the rain, have you checked the alternator belt to make sure that isn’t slipping?
When you did this did you have to remove the intake manifold?
[quote=”headknocker” post=183620]I replaced the front and rear valve cover gaskets on my daughter’s ’00 Sienna last Spring and be forewarned that dealing with the rear valve cover can be a stone-cold PITA.
To make it easier on yourself make sure to remove the windshield cowl beforehand to give yourself some much-needed additional space to work with. The real problem lies with a demented Toyota engineer who thought it would be funny to drape a wiring harness across the rear valve cover which barely has any play in it to remove and install the cover. I pulled like crazy on it and pulled it aside as much as possible with a strong bungie cord and it was still all I could do to remove it and reinstall it. Let’s just say I was at the end of my rope and cussing ruled the day 🙂
It took awhile but I f-i-n-a-l-l-y got it done. There’s also an O2(?) sensor along the firewall which some people on the Sienna boards recommend should be swapped out at the same time but money was a little tight so I left it alone.
There’s some good info on the dedicated Sienna boards and I recommend them highly.
I just installed led bulbs in my 2008 Civic LX from Amazon and I love them. Much brighter and no issues with blinding others.
I used the “9006 Auto LED Headlight Kit by Evitek” from Amazon. Don’t know about longevity yet but they seem to be fairly well made.
Hopefully things work out for you. Let me know.
I advise that you talk to the seller politely and explain what happened and give him a chance to make things right. Demanding and showing anger will only put him on the defensive and won’t serve you well.
Get the codes scanned and found out what you’re dealing with. Also, try to retain a copy of the ad where seller states “no malfunction lamps” for proof in case you need to litigate.
But for now, I would go back to the seller and talk to him. He might surprise you who knows..
[quote=”college man” post=180703]Another one of Murphy’s laws. Shit goes wrong whether you want it to or not.[/quote]
Also we have the corollary to Murphy’s Law which states “If the event something going wrong would somehow have benefited you, Murphy’s Law dictates that, in that event, nothing will go wrong.
[quote=”Gearwrench” post=178697]OK, so then if power leaves the battery from the negative post, then it must follow the chassis of the vehicle seeking a way back to the pos. terminal of the battery. That means that the whole chassis is energized so to speak with electrons and enter, say the blower motor, through its casing then back to the pos post via insulated wires. (Seems to me like a less efficient way for electrons to travel to the load than the other way around.) Thanks, for the quick lesson. It was a great revelation for me. Makes you really appreciate what’s going on under that hood.[/quote]
You are correct. Also, electrons are lazy and will take the path of least resistance back to the positive terminal of the battery.