[Terry]

I do change the oil every 3,000 miles or 12 months. The car is driven on weekends only so time usually comes first. Ford recommends 10W-40 oil. I use Motorcraft synthetic blend 10W-40.

I bought the car from the original owner and it was always garage kept. He had it serviced at the Ford dealer it was purchased from. I got a mountain of service paperwork with the car. Like I said before, It’s an old car no matter how well it was kept. I’m going to do my best to keep it on the road for a long time to come. The major problem is parts availability, it isn’t there. I’ll keep you posted.

[Terry]

I replaced the vacuum lines because they were original, cracked and nasty looking. I found test procedures for the vane air meter in my service manual, it failed so I ordered a replacement. I was seeking advice for the wastegate and boost control solenoid. The car is a 1988 and even though it has only 93,000 miles age is the enemy. I think I’m a pretty good do it yourself mechanic. I keep my cars running well. My turbo coupe is a little more complex than the others because of the turbo and associated equipment.

I’m out of smoke solution for my smoke machine and just haven’t gotten around to ordering more. I do wish I could use my Autel scanner on my Tbird.

[Terry]

I did some more digging and the sensor code was for the vane air temp sensor not the act sensor. The vat sensor is in the vane air meter and is not replaceable. I’m going to order a remanufactured vane air meter. Hopefully it will fix the problem. Fingers crossed.

[Terry]

Replaced the ACT sensor and it didn’t help. I replaced some vacuum lines and that didn’t help either. I used a vacuum pump from a brake bleeding kit on the wastegate valve and it didn’t move. I don’t know if the pump is even strong enough to make it move. Can I bypass the turbo control solenoid to see if that’s the problem? I’m getting frustrated.

[Terry]

Checked for codes and had just one. KOEO code 28; Vane Air Temp Sensor Out of Range.

[Terry]

[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=150110]Hard to say based on just this. Could need just a tune up. Also should be checked for codes.

-Karl[/quote]

I did a tune up around the same time I replaced the power steering pump last fall. I replaced all filters, plugs and wires. I also replaced the distributor due to a bad igniter. My friend already bought the entire distributor so I put it in. The car runs great except for the puzzling stall and power rack. I will be replacing that. I’ll check for codes and get back to you.

[Terry]

[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=149435]a engine light or any codes?

if you are suspicious of a bad fuel pump, i would do a fuel pressure test before making this assumption, i would also check for spark.[/quote]

Spark test passed, no fuel pressure. Checked for voltage at pump plug and had the initial 12v when the key was turned on and had 12v when cranking the engine so not a voltage problem. Installed new pump and filter and the van runs like new. Not a bad repair over all.

[Terry]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=149532]Many people think it’s the power steering pump that’s at fault in situations like these. In my experience, it’s almost always the PS rack that causes this condition. Given that you’ve recently replaced the pump, I think you should replace the rack and recheck for the condition.

Please keep us updated on your progress.[/quote]

I will keep you updated. Thanks.

[Terry]

[quote=”VinceFromQC” post=149509]Oh I didn’t realize that. In fact I kinda contradicted myself on that one. A worn pump should not be hard to rotate manually. Being all worn it’s actually the opposite :silly:

But the rest of my point still stands though. The fluid will give you a good indication of what’s going on in the system. Did the issue appear all of a sudden or it was a rather progressive degradation?[/quote]

The issue happened over time which leads me back to the rack. I hope it didn’t damage the new pump. I’ll replace the rack and keep you posted. It may be a while.

[Terry]

[quote=”VinceFromQC” post=149496]Of course I can understand you may not have access to a suitable pressure gauge to begin with. It’s all theory here LOL.

But should you manage to find the specific gauge/tester device, it’s meant to be installed in lieu of the hydraulic hose between the pump’s output and the steering rack’s input. Since these systems are very rarely if ever troubleshooted on the field, especially in cars, there’s usually no provision for a quick-coupled pressure gauge. However most service manuals should provide a troubleshooting procedure with a specifically designed service tool, usually in the form of a valve with a pressure gauge.

Reading your reply it’s quite possible your power steering pump is going bad, especially since you mentioned it’s getting hard to rotate by hand. These pumps really don’t have much inside, they should turn manually with (almost) no effort. What I think happens is when you move the steering wheel, the steering rack will obviously let hydraulic pressure in to provide assistance. But if the pump is bad and leaks too much internally, the mechanical force that the hydraulic pressure normally overcome will instead slow the pump down. So what you see as a slow rotation of the pump is probably how it doesn’t provide enough pressure and remains in a quasi-lockup state, quasi because of the internal leaks (i.e. worn internal parts) that allow the fluid to slowly circulate internally and the pump to rotate slowly as a result.

One thing you can do is drain the system by the lowest point you can (probably a fitting on the steering rack) in a clean container and inspect the fluid carefully for any contaminants. If anything, it’s probably metal particles you’ll find. If it’s the case, it’s most certainly the pump going bad. Although I’m not quite sure if the contaminants (if any) will remain in the system or come with the fluid if you simply drain by gravity. Doesn’t cost much to drain and check the fluid at least! :P[/quote]

The steering wheel is hard to turn, the old pump was hard to turn. LOL. I installed the present pump less than a year ago and everything was working well until recently. The present pump rotates without issue. I’ll check the fluid.

[Terry]

[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=149434]can you make a video of the sound you are hearing? sometimes it helps a little if we can hear the sound to make a more through diagnosis.[/quote]

That’s a good idea. I’ll try.

[Terry]

Hello,

Thanks for the input. There’s no provision to hook up a pressure gauge. I misdescribed the problem The power steering pump pulley doesn’t stop dead and stay that way, it stops for a second the turns slowly as long as long a I attempt to turn the steering wheel.. The steering wheel is hard to turn. The old pump was going bad because the pulley was hard to turn by hand. Could this have damaged the power rack and in turn damaged the new pump? The rack is original 1994.

[Terry]

Hello,

No, no codes or engine light. I didn’t have my fuel pressure tester or spark tester with me at the time. I know what assumption is the mother of but I was assuming that since it ran like a champ just before it started running like crap and then wouldn’t start that the fuel pump was the problem. I’ll do the pressure and spark check. I would have done them any way because I don’t throw parts at something hoping it gets fixed. Thanks for the input. I’ll keep you posted.

[Terry]

[quote=”tomatofarmer1″ post=141586]Yes sir…these fasteners are common on many GM applications. Torx sockets may be purchased many places like an auto,parts store, Lowe’s, etc. A standard 3/8″ set should get you going…Good luck[/quote]

Thanks for the reply. I ordered a set of sockets from Amazon.com with free 2 day shipping. I hope these work. I do know about and have seen some types of torx/star head bolts, internal and external, just never like these. They almost look like tamper proof heads. We’ll see and I’ll update. It may be some time though. If I manage to get them out I’ll post a picture on here if I can.Thanks again.

[Terry]

I took the Taurus to a local Ford dealer and they updated the computer. That seems to have fixed the problem. It starts great in cold weather and I believe my average mpg is increasing.

[Author]

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