[Ben]

I worry about the stress on the cable over time, just like Cap269 this is one of those situation where i always suggest the local scrap yard.Often times I find those little things like boots. springs, random connectors and all other various and sundry things which are either special order or dealer only if you can even find them there.

[Ben]

Good idea not many near by but a good number of them about 15 miles away. I do work at Enterprise and even though it is not perhaps the most appropriate thing to do I often talk to customers about car repair especially when they are complaining about shop prices or uncle so and so never showing up to do the work.

Normally I would not mind the slow period however since I am trying to make this an actually functioning business and not just a little work here and there for extra cash it becomes more important. Thankfully my wife is very supportive even though she is still having to pull crazy hours at her job, it is extra motivation for me to be successful.

[Ben]

Well family will screw you over before anyone else sadly enough

[Ben]

Thanks for sharing everyone. A few things have changed, I raised my prices a bit still fair but cheeper then the 70$ an hour shops.

I have also changed a few other things I’m doing. Either I keep hold of the vehicle keys or it is half the labor up front. Of course my customers are given a invoice as always. I am working with the program I am using for my book keeping to add a disclaimer/ contract stating I will be in possession of the keys or at least half of the labor plus parts will be paid. Advance.

Now I just need to get a few more customers since the last few weeks have been slow. I have been advertising in the loop cal craigslist and a few other local sites. Business cards are being given to every one I am talking to who has vehicle problems any other suggestions for building my business would be appreciated.

[Ben]

Hey karl
That is a very common problem with the windstars I just did one recently and it was a little harder then expected. The windstars have a tendancy to to have the gauge clusters go out due to bad connections on the internal boards which give a lot of movement in the gauges . Up and down movements of the speed, tach are the most common or pegging out then dropping to for a while then returning to regular operation for a while before going crazy again. I ended up replacing the gauge cluster unfortunately however the the cluster has to be programmed and I had to have that done at the dealership.

I do not know if it is the same problem for you however so a little more detail would be appreciated on how and when the gauges are acting up. How and when are they being fussy, is it random or common event and how long have you been experiencing the issue. I hope this helps some.

[Ben]

After flushing the radiator and the complete engine block as well as replacing the radiator cap which was only very slightly worn everything seems to have been holding up fine for the last 2 days. I took it on a 70 mile test drive with no problems what so ever. I am somewhat supprised that a barely leaking radiator cap appears to have solved the issues and i am waiting for the other shoe to drop so to speak but for now back up and running.

Thanks to everyone for there ideas.

[Ben]

I pulled the radiator and inspected it far closer and it was not a leak in the radiator it was slightly worn in the spot but very solid. I moved some of the mounting bracketry around and made certain the radiator now has clearance to eliminate that potential issue. I flushed the system completely when I pulled the radiator and reinstalled.

After reinstall and test drive the truck idled perfectly in drive and reverse. The bottom radiator hose did pop off during the test drive even though i tightened the clamp securely. I did not notice any change in temperature or even that there was a problem until i pulled up at the gas station. I noticed water dripping from the truck I thought it was a leak but the hose had popped off with the clamp still tightened down on the hose. I reinstalled the hose and tightened the clamp to the point my screwdriver was twisting and it has stayed on since then .

I also replaced the radiator cap even though the old one seemed to be in decent shape good spring tension( only slightly weaker then the new one) and gaskets in good shape. There has been a noticeable increase in system pressure since the new cap is in place. The hoses are firm until the engine cools when they used to be squeezable even if the engine is hot, at this time they are only flexible when the engine is cold so there apparently a the radiator cap was leaking some.

I will keep you updated depending on what happens next or at least make a happy everything is running post.

[Ben]

I just finished a pressure / leak down test I showed a very very small drop in pressure like 1/2 lbs drop in thirty minutes. I found a spot where the radiator was rubbing against the frame creating a small leak. Tomorrow I am going to pull the radiator and repair the hole and see if that fixes the leak issue. I did not find any evidence of leak around the heads, water pump, hoses or resivoire (never could spell that right). Once i get this leak figured out I will try and figure out the stalling problem. I will keep you all updated tomorrow after i have repaired the radiator and inspected the rest of the system more closely.

Thank you for all of your ideas so far.

[Ben]

Update I lose no coolant when the vehicle is sitting. I checked coolant level since it has been sitting at work with zero coolant loss. Then I started the engine let it run for fifteen minutes and rechecked the coolant and there was a noticeable loss of coolant.

[Ben]

I used to have the same problem in my ol Dakota. I have to agree with the first responder that it is more then likely you sending unit. Given you are still getting oil from your pump as witnessed buy the rpm changing oil pressure you are still getting functionality

[Ben]

No coolant contamination just did an oil change three days ago and that oil was beautiful just rolled around and smoke when I got some on the heads.

I will pressure and compression test it again in the next day or so . the pressure / leak down test a few months ago was fine but things could have changed

[Ben]

I understand where you are coming from I have been shade treeing since I was young finally got tired of my job and started officially running a small mobile mechanic business. As far as tool I have about $500 invested a good complete 3/8 and 1/2 socket with matching metric and ASE sets, A set of open end wrenches, a good set of screw drivers, jack stands and a reliable jack. With these basic I have done transmissions wheel bearings replaced rack and pinion steering and a lot of other jobs in the last month or so. So you don’t need great tool go to auto zone still has a lifetime guaranty and works may not be Craftsmen or matco but they work.

As far as getting hired places I have been interviewed and rejected 7 times by large dealerships because of limited experience. By experience they do mean the basics like jiffy lube and the like just to get in the door.I am personally studying up for ASes not because I plan on taking them but becasue there is a lot of valuable diagnostic knowledge in the study materials ( that you can order on line for about $700). That being said I know people who can tell you exactly where to look in their fancy computer to find what sensor says there is a problem but have no idea how to access to affect the repair.

My honest suggestion is shade tree it for a while put your self out there for a few months make certain it is something you want to do for real work even if it is just changing peoples brakes and spark plugs.There are going to be days when you do not make anything or that big job does not bring in nearly as much profit as you because be cause of broken equipment un-forseen problems and the like. Make it through a few of those days and then if you still really want to turn wrenches find a local independent shop they are far more likely to hire someone without ase certification as long as you got tools and common sense.

I will say even though I am doing some pretty big job with basic tool I am saving for a good impact and a compressor If i had owned a impact cordless or other wise it would have saved me hours in the sun. Do not get me wrong I am not claiming to be a tech i am a mechanic I diagnose with experience and a bunch of techniques commonly considered shade tree, this works for me But i do lack a lot of knowledge in the more electronic side of things I will never own a $3000 scan tool or have my own bendpack two post hoist ( still jealous). That is something you do have to consider if you want to work on most of the newer cars you will get a lot of knowledge from schooling.

Good luck with your choice do not get disheartened to soon give your self a chance mistakes are learning experiences some of them are just more expensive then others.

[Ben]

IT idles just fine about 600 rpm when in park or neutral simply stopped in drive or reverse kills the engine. As for vacuum leaks yeah I have checked and I am free of vacuum leaks, when i first purchased the truck the PCV system was riddled with leaks nearly every bit of tubing was replaced. I have also checked around the plenum, heads.
The truck has a tendency to burp out a bit of coolant from the burp tube from the resvoir up top whenever I cut off the truck. Coolant is perhaps not the correct word often times it is steam and not any liquid at all which come out of the over flow tube. I have never had a car or truck that has done that before.

[Author]

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