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What the manual says is true to what they tested to there standards. if your fluid is starting to turn a different color, time to change it out now with a flush. Doesn’t hurt for preventative maitance to blowing a cylinder head. If you had or have a rear wheel drive car, its much cheaper because they are simpler to work on. I wouldnt be concerned about your transmission since most transmissions these days use a transmission cooler. If you have coolant running in your transmission, it runs like a seconary system like your heater core. Engine problems are more likey chance
the only thing holding it on are the brake shoes. make sure your ebrake is off and try adjusting the sprocket. you may have way too much drag. if none of these work, dont be afraid to use force with 2 flatheads or somthing with leverage
the only thing holding it on are the brake shoes. make sure your ebrake is off and try adjusting the sprocket. you may have way too much drag. if none of these work, dont be afraid to use force with 2 flatheads or somthing with leverage
only smoked when I did a compression test. oh yea! shes clean as a bone and ready for an oil change. sux I wasted $20 on oil but I learned somthing big today. now my intake manifold makes sense after removing that gosh darn 2 way adapter. 1 less vaccum leak I need. All I need now is to buy a couple brake lines to use for the tranny cooler and shes ready to be cranked over.
only smoked when I did a compression test. oh yea! shes clean as a bone and ready for an oil change. sux I wasted $20 on oil but I learned somthing big today. now my intake manifold makes sense after removing that gosh darn 2 way adapter. 1 less vaccum leak I need. All I need now is to buy a couple brake lines to use for the tranny cooler and shes ready to be cranked over.
smells like tranny fluid to me as I saw inside the spacer, tranny fluid. no wounder the engine cut out after a half hour of use.
Attachments:smells like tranny fluid to me as I saw inside the spacer, tranny fluid. no wounder the engine cut out after a half hour of use.
Attachments:I found the real problem. it explains why my cylinders are so clean. On the fordomatic transmission, there was a ventalation pipe. mistakenly connected it to the intake manifold and was sucking transmission fluid in. it explains why it wasnt shifting correctly. what went to the spacer is a big question to the previous owner. it was a 2 way adapter from Orchard Supply hardware and why would you need vaccum when there is a shift moduator on board?
I found the real problem. it explains why my cylinders are so clean. On the fordomatic transmission, there was a ventalation pipe. mistakenly connected it to the intake manifold and was sucking transmission fluid in. it explains why it wasnt shifting correctly. what went to the spacer is a big question to the previous owner. it was a 2 way adapter from Orchard Supply hardware and why would you need vaccum when there is a shift moduator on board?
I will post pictures of how I did the retrofit if anyone is interested in doing this. bought a 66 mustang c4 automatic transmission for $200. I hear they are easy to rebuild for the worst case senario.
I will post pictures of how I did the retrofit if anyone is interested in doing this. bought a 66 mustang c4 automatic transmission for $200. I hear they are easy to rebuild for the worst case senario.
It sorta does its hard to tell since the fuel pump has been off for so long which im thinking the fumes evaporated, the weep hole from the old diaphram was sputtering of gasoline.
It sorta does its hard to tell since the fuel pump has been off for so long which im thinking the fumes evaporated, the weep hole from the old diaphram was sputtering of gasoline.
It has been successful, relocation wasn’t a bad idea. I saved $100 on a new crossmember minus the bolts, nuts, washers and cobalt driblets I bought. so about $60 I saved. Im running into another problem with the engine as I create another thread for it.
It has been successful, relocation wasn’t a bad idea. I saved $100 on a new crossmember minus the bolts, nuts, washers and cobalt driblets I bought. so about $60 I saved. Im running into another problem with the engine as I create another thread for it.
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