Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
You’ve probably covered this already with the fuel relay, but a long time ago I had a 92 Honda Accord I think it was, 4 cyl and during the very hot summer months it would crank but no start. I did some research and found that there was a small box about the size of a wallet located behind the change compartment to the left of the steering wheel. Once again, sorry if you’ve already check this as I don’t remember the name of the part but I do believe it controlled the fuel or spark, sorry my memory is shot.
HI John-Max,
How many miles or kilometers does your engine have? I was thinking you could check the thermostat by seeing if the upper radiator hose gets warm to hot when engine is warmed up, but it sounds like you continually have to add coolant which means either an external or perhaps in this case an internal coolant leak. Redline makes a good coolant system pressure tester in which the attachment fits inside the neck of the expansion tank and expands, this is the one I have. You can also try checking the oil dipstick for signs of coolant contamination but this doesn’t always work especially if the coolant is getting sucked right into one of the combustion chambers. A compression tester might also help to find a leaking head gasket, you may have to warm up the engine first and then try it. Check the smell of the exhaust gases from the muffler, does it smell sweet or look foggy/ humid? To assist in locating a difficult leak, you can also purchase UV dies especially made for coolant systems and the special light to detect it for around $50. Let us know how you make out!
HI John-Max,
How many miles or kilometers does your engine have? I was thinking you could check the thermostat by seeing if the upper radiator hose gets warm to hot when engine is warmed up, but it sounds like you continually have to add coolant which means either an external or perhaps in this case an internal coolant leak. Redline makes a good coolant system pressure tester in which the attachment fits inside the neck of the expansion tank and expands, this is the one I have. You can also try checking the oil dipstick for signs of coolant contamination but this doesn’t always work especially if the coolant is getting sucked right into one of the combustion chambers. A compression tester might also help to find a leaking head gasket, you may have to warm up the engine first and then try it. Check the smell of the exhaust gases from the muffler, does it smell sweet or look foggy/ humid? To assist in locating a difficult leak, you can also purchase UV dies especially made for coolant systems and the special light to detect it for around $50. Let us know how you make out!
UPDATE!
I’m overjoyed to report that the P1765 Code has been completed resolved, erraticated! I want to say Thanks to Tedybear315 & Eric the Car Guy for your replies of helpful information and support! I received the new wiring harness for the transmission to solenoids on July 8th, however I freaked out when I compared the new SLN Linear Solenoid to my old one, the new one was shorter in length and had a completely different arrangement of port holes. I called Lexus parts out of Atlanta from which I ordered them from and explained everything to the parts manager “Demetrick”. He was sensitive and understanding to my fears that this wasn’t the right part (see photo attached) and told me to call him back the next day after he checked with the parts warehouse because there had been a part# change which means an alteration had been made of the original part. Demetrick was able to confirm only that yes, the new SLN Solenoid was shorter than the original but couldn’t confirm the difference in port holes. I went ahead and installed the new Linear Solenoid into the valve body (crossing my fingers). I wrapped all the solenoid wires in this really cool stuff called Xtreme tape which looks similiar to electrical tape but is self fusing and withstands temperatures up to 700F. This worked much better than the heat shrink tubing I had on it, my GF helped me to hold the valve body in place while I connected the throttle cable (almost impossible without a 2nd person), bolted it all back together and torqued to spec. This morning I put 1 gallon of Valvoline ATF for Multi cars (blue bottle). Just a quick note that the ATF by Valvoline in the blue bottle seems to resemble what came out of the transmission initially than the one in the red bottle which seemed much thicker and darker (labeled high mileage). I would recommend the Blue bottle multi-car ATF over the red bottle stuff. I installed a brand new battery (Gold Series from advanced), turned the ignition to the on position, connected my scanner and there were NO CODES! No pending codes either, my heart skipped a beat, I started the engine and still no problems. The engine/transmission vibrated a tiny bit but smoothed out within seconds of the ATF circulating. I took it for a nice long test drive down local roads and the high way and it shifts smoothly I have all gears again! The only slight thing I barely noticed was a tiny bit of intermittent vibration between 55 to 60mph. This could be because the trans needs a little more ATF, a wheel out of balance or more likely a worn tie rod. I couldn’t really isolate it but I’m not too concerned after all that I’ve been through. Oh, and Eric to respond to your reply, shift solenoids 1, 2 and lock up are grounded to their mounts just as you noted however the SLN solenoid which was the last big problem has a power wire and a ground wire that goes back to the ECM and the ECM monitors the duty cycle via the wire. I think I said it correctly… when I accidentally severed the power wire coming from the ECM going to this SLN Solenoid I was worried that this wire may have grounded out the current on metal and burned/overloaded that circuit of the ECM but it hadn’t thankfully. The red liquid in the ECM connector was a strange find, all I can chock it up to is some kind of melted electrical connector grease because it had no smell nor was it easy to wipe away. If this didn’t resolve the problem then definitely Eric, the ECM would be at fault here. Well, I have to go pick up my tools in the yard and try to find the elusive 10mm craftsman ratcheting wrench that disappeared 2 months ago, LOL.UPDATE!
I’m overjoyed to report that the P1765 Code has been completed resolved, erraticated! I want to say Thanks to Tedybear315 & Eric the Car Guy for your replies of helpful information and support! I received the new wiring harness for the transmission to solenoids on July 8th, however I freaked out when I compared the new SLN Linear Solenoid to my old one, the new one was shorter in length and had a completely different arrangement of port holes. I called Lexus parts out of Atlanta from which I ordered them from and explained everything to the parts manager “Demetrick”. He was sensitive and understanding to my fears that this wasn’t the right part (see photo attached) and told me to call him back the next day after he checked with the parts warehouse because there had been a part# change which means an alteration had been made of the original part. Demetrick was able to confirm only that yes, the new SLN Solenoid was shorter than the original but couldn’t confirm the difference in port holes. I went ahead and installed the new Linear Solenoid into the valve body (crossing my fingers). I wrapped all the solenoid wires in this really cool stuff called Xtreme tape which looks similiar to electrical tape but is self fusing and withstands temperatures up to 700F. This worked much better than the heat shrink tubing I had on it, my GF helped me to hold the valve body in place while I connected the throttle cable (almost impossible without a 2nd person), bolted it all back together and torqued to spec. This morning I put 1 gallon of Valvoline ATF for Multi cars (blue bottle). Just a quick note that the ATF by Valvoline in the blue bottle seems to resemble what came out of the transmission initially than the one in the red bottle which seemed much thicker and darker (labeled high mileage). I would recommend the Blue bottle multi-car ATF over the red bottle stuff. I installed a brand new battery (Gold Series from advanced), turned the ignition to the on position, connected my scanner and there were NO CODES! No pending codes either, my heart skipped a beat, I started the engine and still no problems. The engine/transmission vibrated a tiny bit but smoothed out within seconds of the ATF circulating. I took it for a nice long test drive down local roads and the high way and it shifts smoothly I have all gears again! The only slight thing I barely noticed was a tiny bit of intermittent vibration between 55 to 60mph. This could be because the trans needs a little more ATF, a wheel out of balance or more likely a worn tie rod. I couldn’t really isolate it but I’m not too concerned after all that I’ve been through. Oh, and Eric to respond to your reply, shift solenoids 1, 2 and lock up are grounded to their mounts just as you noted however the SLN solenoid which was the last big problem has a power wire and a ground wire that goes back to the ECM and the ECM monitors the duty cycle via the wire. I think I said it correctly… when I accidentally severed the power wire coming from the ECM going to this SLN Solenoid I was worried that this wire may have grounded out the current on metal and burned/overloaded that circuit of the ECM but it hadn’t thankfully. The red liquid in the ECM connector was a strange find, all I can chock it up to is some kind of melted electrical connector grease because it had no smell nor was it easy to wipe away. If this didn’t resolve the problem then definitely Eric, the ECM would be at fault here. Well, I have to go pick up my tools in the yard and try to find the elusive 10mm craftsman ratcheting wrench that disappeared 2 months ago, LOL.Update:
Upon removing the ECM, I unplugged the E9 Connector/Terminal to find it saturated with a red liquid, I can’t really surmise if its transmission fluid, or maybe even power steering fluid. I don’t think that this is normal and the affected SLN circuit appears to be in terminals other than the E9 so could this be affecting/causing my P1765 problem? Is this liquid normal? I’ve posted a rather crappy photo here as an attachment.
Update:
Upon removing the ECM, I unplugged the E9 Connector/Terminal to find it saturated with a red liquid, I can’t really surmise if its transmission fluid, or maybe even power steering fluid. I don’t think that this is normal and the affected SLN circuit appears to be in terminals other than the E9 so could this be affecting/causing my P1765 problem? Is this liquid normal? I’ve posted a rather crappy photo here as an attachment.
THanks again for your input Tedybear315,
good detailed information about the duty cycle of the linear valve solenoid, to me the best way I can understand it is that this circuit and solenoid act as both a sensor and an actuator of sorts, I’m just praying for any reprieve at this point that by replacing the solenoid and wire harness will fix the problem. From what I’ve seen, tested and probed so far, it appears that my soldering and repair job to the wires worked which leads me to the unfortunate conclusion that something more sinister is at work here. I fear the ECM sustained some damage when this wire to the SLN Linear solenoid was severed, it appears to be a straight shot of wire between the ECM and the SLN/ Linear solenoid not leaving much in the realm of overload protection. As you noted, I certainly wish I had ScannerDan on speed dial, I’ve always wanted to get a PicoScope but they just cost way too much money to justify as I’m not a full time mechanic. The Linear Solenoid does move back and forth as described in the test procedure. If I make any new findings I will report back to this thread, I’m going to carefully remove the ECM today just for a visual inspection. thanks again for all your help Tedybear315!THanks again for your input Tedybear315,
good detailed information about the duty cycle of the linear valve solenoid, to me the best way I can understand it is that this circuit and solenoid act as both a sensor and an actuator of sorts, I’m just praying for any reprieve at this point that by replacing the solenoid and wire harness will fix the problem. From what I’ve seen, tested and probed so far, it appears that my soldering and repair job to the wires worked which leads me to the unfortunate conclusion that something more sinister is at work here. I fear the ECM sustained some damage when this wire to the SLN Linear solenoid was severed, it appears to be a straight shot of wire between the ECM and the SLN/ Linear solenoid not leaving much in the realm of overload protection. As you noted, I certainly wish I had ScannerDan on speed dial, I’ve always wanted to get a PicoScope but they just cost way too much money to justify as I’m not a full time mechanic. The Linear Solenoid does move back and forth as described in the test procedure. If I make any new findings I will report back to this thread, I’m going to carefully remove the ECM today just for a visual inspection. thanks again for all your help Tedybear315!Update:
I dropped the valve body in the transmission of my Lexus (not literally of course), hoisted the valve body and all the solenoids plugged into it onto my workbench. I also removed the transmission wiring harness that feeds these solenoids. This is what stumps the hell out of me…Everything tested fine, of course the only circuit and solenoid I’m now concerned with is the Linear or Shift Valve SLN Accumulator back pressure modulation (technical term). There is continuity on both wires going to this linear solenoid when testing end to end, the linear solenoid’s resistance is still a constant 5.5 ohms but there is one thing that is maybe a little strange…The directions for testing this solenoid say to have a variable voltage output and signals from the ECM to this solenoid typically switch back forth no more than 5 volts but the test section says apply battery voltage with a 10 watt bulb lead to this solenoid which varying the voltage to see that it contracts fully. Not wanting to fry the thing, I took your advice Tedybear315 and purchased the device from Radio Shack which allows me to vary DC current between 3.5 to 5 volts (Thanks very much!) however when I apply the full 5 volts the sound this solenoid makes is nothing like the sharp clicking of the shift or lock up solenoid, its more muffled and hollow and almost labored. I don’t know if its supposed to be this way or because I’m only applying 5 volts to it and maybe its supposed to operate up to 12 volts like the other solenoids? I also measure the amperage draw and it falls within specs for the voltage and ohms, I should have the new wire harness and linear solenoid here on Tuesday, God willing this will resolve my P1765 problem, if not then the only thing to do is send the ECM off to get repaired, I found a company called AES who seems very professional and the cost if around $230. I’m thinking about removing the ECM very carefully tomorrow and just visually inspecting the circuit board for anything obvious. These damn Gremlins are getting the best of me!
Update:
I dropped the valve body in the transmission of my Lexus (not literally of course), hoisted the valve body and all the solenoids plugged into it onto my workbench. I also removed the transmission wiring harness that feeds these solenoids. This is what stumps the hell out of me…Everything tested fine, of course the only circuit and solenoid I’m now concerned with is the Linear or Shift Valve SLN Accumulator back pressure modulation (technical term). There is continuity on both wires going to this linear solenoid when testing end to end, the linear solenoid’s resistance is still a constant 5.5 ohms but there is one thing that is maybe a little strange…The directions for testing this solenoid say to have a variable voltage output and signals from the ECM to this solenoid typically switch back forth no more than 5 volts but the test section says apply battery voltage with a 10 watt bulb lead to this solenoid which varying the voltage to see that it contracts fully. Not wanting to fry the thing, I took your advice Tedybear315 and purchased the device from Radio Shack which allows me to vary DC current between 3.5 to 5 volts (Thanks very much!) however when I apply the full 5 volts the sound this solenoid makes is nothing like the sharp clicking of the shift or lock up solenoid, its more muffled and hollow and almost labored. I don’t know if its supposed to be this way or because I’m only applying 5 volts to it and maybe its supposed to operate up to 12 volts like the other solenoids? I also measure the amperage draw and it falls within specs for the voltage and ohms, I should have the new wire harness and linear solenoid here on Tuesday, God willing this will resolve my P1765 problem, if not then the only thing to do is send the ECM off to get repaired, I found a company called AES who seems very professional and the cost if around $230. I’m thinking about removing the ECM very carefully tomorrow and just visually inspecting the circuit board for anything obvious. These damn Gremlins are getting the best of me!
THat’s Great! Thank you for the information and the link, hell, what’s another $20 at this point and it is good to have in the future. Well, I’m going to go drop the pan and valve body now, I will repost this evening with my findings. I really appreciate you replies, I’m glad I found someone who has knowledge in this area. Much thanks, we’ll talk later.
THat’s Great! Thank you for the information and the link, hell, what’s another $20 at this point and it is good to have in the future. Well, I’m going to go drop the pan and valve body now, I will repost this evening with my findings. I really appreciate you replies, I’m glad I found someone who has knowledge in this area. Much thanks, we’ll talk later.
I haven’t visited radio shack in a while, I’m not familiar with the power pack you are speaking of, could you include a link for me if at all possible? Yeah, I’m not too hot on the idea of putting that much voltage on this linear solenoid either because it of what it does/how it operates and sends signals back to the ECM. A product link would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for all the help, I’m about to go outside and start putting my Lexus on jack stands, not looking forward to it.
I haven’t visited radio shack in a while, I’m not familiar with the power pack you are speaking of, could you include a link for me if at all possible? Yeah, I’m not too hot on the idea of putting that much voltage on this linear solenoid either because it of what it does/how it operates and sends signals back to the ECM. A product link would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for all the help, I’m about to go outside and start putting my Lexus on jack stands, not looking forward to it.
