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Thanks Eric! I haven’t checked the fuel pressure yet but tore into her yesterday as I needed to replaced the purge valve solenoid (maybe) it was throwing the p0452 code so figured I would start with that considering it’s a pretty cheap part. While i wash under there the hood i figured i would check all 16 spark plugs. All their gaps were good however there were 4 that seemed to have a dry soot on them and also one of the bolts.on a coil pack was loose, i cleaned the plugs that needed it and threw everything back together. I’m about to go start her up and she how she acts the next few days. Def will check fuel pressure in the coming days
if it aint giving you problems then i wouldnt worry about it. if your heat is good and it isnt over heating no reason to be concerned, the gauge just might read low. sometimes vehicles have their own personality that you learn about while owning them, im sure you will notice if that gauge jumps up in temp from where it usually sits, then it would be a cause for concern
replace it, on bench and in car are totally different test, when on the bench it has no load on the alt. i.e lights, radio, and any other electrical systems that may be running on it, you can troubleshoot and try to put more tension on the belt. i had a problem with a 05 mazda where the vehicle was fine then i notice my wipers would get really really slow and my lights would dim but if i was going about 60 its would be fine a couple weeks later the alt shit the bed and i had to replace it. anyway i would replace it, sounds like it is starting to shit out
maybe replace your MAF sensor? that would be where i would go next since that seems to stall it out when you plug it in. these newer cars nowa days with all theses high tech electronics can really throw you for a loop. i have a vehicle that had some corrosion on the battery terminals and you would have thought there was a huge electrical issue but all i had to do was clean the terminals and the post and put some of that red spray shit on and i haven’t had a problem since, but i swear you would have thought that vehicle was in dire straights
Ok so I disassembled the park brake, cleaned the piss out of it, PB blasted the springs let them soak then cleaned again. Then assembled and adjusted them, I’m glad I did this because now the vehicle rolls much easier in R and D with out tapping the gas to get it going. Still didn’t fix the shimmy, so Monday I will going to a nitto dealer to have theatre thoroughly inspected. And hopefully road force balanced right this time I.e rotating the tires on the rim to bring the road force down a bit. Will keep you guys posted! Any input on other possibilities of the shimmy are greatly appreciated!
Ok so I disassembled the park brake, cleaned the piss out of it, PB blasted the springs let them soak then cleaned again. Then assembled and adjusted them, I’m glad I did this because now the vehicle rolls much easier in R and D with out tapping the gas to get it going. Still didn’t fix the shimmy, so Monday I will going to a nitto dealer to have theatre thoroughly inspected. And hopefully road force balanced right this time I.e rotating the tires on the rim to bring the road force down a bit. Will keep you guys posted! Any input on other possibilities of the shimmy are greatly appreciated!
Not entirely sure on the position, they didn’t go into that much detail :unsure: I did however take a picture of the screen not sure exactly where I would find that info, if you could let me know that would be great. I also plan on tearing into the parking brake stuff today, I feel that may be the culprit plus I have another appointment Monday at a nitro deal so the can inspect the tires, figured I could take a look at the parking brake and see if that’s because before I go pending more money!
Not entirely sure on the position, they didn’t go into that much detail :unsure: I did however take a picture of the screen not sure exactly where I would find that info, if you could let me know that would be great. I also plan on tearing into the parking brake stuff today, I feel that may be the culprit plus I have another appointment Monday at a nitro deal so the can inspect the tires, figured I could take a look at the parking brake and see if that’s because before I go pending more money!
Ok so went to the shop that had a road force balance machine, a couple of the tires were over one @ 42 and the other @ 38 for a LT all terrain tire, they didn’t rotate the tire on the wheel to get the best balance, but I did notice a little difference. So later I was thinking hmm I did do a brake job a couple months ago so I took it for a spin in a parking lot and went about 10 mph and slowly depressed the e-brake, I have the pedal type with rear rotors and the parking pads are on the inside of the rotor like a drum brake. I did this a couple times then drove in a circle at idle and you could feea slight lurching feeling and lthe vehicle would stop without hitting the brake. I took it for a spin and the shimmy was a lot worse through all speeds. So my question is do you the parking brake pads could be rubbing just enough or too much to cause that shimmy? Suggestions for a fix? Was think disassemble clean all the parts reassemble and adjust?
Ok so went to the shop that had a road force balance machine, a couple of the tires were over one @ 42 and the other @ 38 for a LT all terrain tire, they didn’t rotate the tire on the wheel to get the best balance, but I did notice a little difference. So later I was thinking hmm I did do a brake job a couple months ago so I took it for a spin in a parking lot and went about 10 mph and slowly depressed the e-brake, I have the pedal type with rear rotors and the parking pads are on the inside of the rotor like a drum brake. I did this a couple times then drove in a circle at idle and you could feea slight lurching feeling and lthe vehicle would stop without hitting the brake. I took it for a spin and the shimmy was a lot worse through all speeds. So my question is do you the parking brake pads could be rubbing just enough or too much to cause that shimmy? Suggestions for a fix? Was think disassemble clean all the parts reassemble and adjust?
will do! and yes i called the tire manufacture and the place i purchased the tires from and they told me to get a print out and all that good stuff, the guy i talked to at the tire places seemed very helpful and i dont see that it would be a problem to get a print out from him. i figured the nitto terra grapplers would give me some road noise and vibration because of the tread but not a shimmy, i also adjust the tire pressure as specified from the door jamb sticker no change, then put 43 psi in after and no change, tires are rated for a max of 50 psi. im going tomorrow and will post results for you guys hopefully the road force works i have heard good things about shimmy at highway speeds and it getting rid of them
will do! and yes i called the tire manufacture and the place i purchased the tires from and they told me to get a print out and all that good stuff, the guy i talked to at the tire places seemed very helpful and i dont see that it would be a problem to get a print out from him. i figured the nitto terra grapplers would give me some road noise and vibration because of the tread but not a shimmy, i also adjust the tire pressure as specified from the door jamb sticker no change, then put 43 psi in after and no change, tires are rated for a max of 50 psi. im going tomorrow and will post results for you guys hopefully the road force works i have heard good things about shimmy at highway speeds and it getting rid of them
Yes I have checked the drive line, and I have jacked the whole vehicle up, front and back supported with jack stands because its full time 4wd, as stated above I’ve checked drive shafts, u-joints, all that good stuff no play, I alsoput the vehicle in neutral while at the speeds when the shimmy occurs, even in neutral and engine off it still shimmies, that eliminates the engine and driveline, I appreciate the suggestion but its been done!
Yes I have checked the drive line, and I have jacked the whole vehicle up, front and back supported with jack stands because its full time 4wd, as stated above I’ve checked drive shafts, u-joints, all that good stuff no play, I alsoput the vehicle in neutral while at the speeds when the shimmy occurs, even in neutral and engine off it still shimmies, that eliminates the engine and driveline, I appreciate the suggestion but its been done!