Forum Replies Created
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Eric:
Here is a pic of the area behind the manifold, near the firewall
where the PCV Valve is threaded (horizontally) into the manifold.
Can you see it now? There is a vertical hose and other stuff in
my way. What can I move to get at the hex?TributeOne
Eric:
Here is a pic of the area behind the manifold, near the firewall
where the PCV Valve is threaded (horizontally) into the manifold.
Can you see it now? There is a vertical hose and other stuff in
my way. What can I move to get at the hex?TributeOne
Eric:
WERE YOU ABLE TO VIEW THE JPEG ATTACHMENT I SENT?
IT SHOWS THE TOYOTA SOLARA 3.3L V6 ENGINE AND THE
AREA WHERE THE PCV VALVE IS LOCATED.I STILL NEED YOUR ASSISTANCE REGARDING THE DISCONNECT
OF ADJACENT COMPONENTS TO FACILITATE GETTING TO THE HEX
OF THE VALVE FOR REMOVAL AND RE-INSTALLATION.TRIBUTEONE
Eric:
WERE YOU ABLE TO VIEW THE JPEG ATTACHMENT I SENT?
IT SHOWS THE TOYOTA SOLARA 3.3L V6 ENGINE AND THE
AREA WHERE THE PCV VALVE IS LOCATED.I STILL NEED YOUR ASSISTANCE REGARDING THE DISCONNECT
OF ADJACENT COMPONENTS TO FACILITATE GETTING TO THE HEX
OF THE VALVE FOR REMOVAL AND RE-INSTALLATION.TRIBUTEONE
dosmaster:
I viewed the website you provided. Clearly, the Monroe Econo-Matic Struts include the coil springs; the detailed listing confirms as much. The Spectrum strut does not show a coil spring; I would presume then, that it’s not a part of the strut, it’s simply a shock absorber.
With 190K miles on the Geo, I would opt for the Monroe Quick Strut if you intend to keep the vehicle longer. The better strut will also reduce wear on the front end steering and drive axle components. If budget is an issue, then go with the Econo-Matics all around:
http://www.monroe.com/en-US/catalog/e-Catalog
If you fully read my previous post, it would seem that I am, in fact, helping you out significantly.
dosmaster:
I viewed the website you provided. Clearly, the Monroe Econo-Matic Struts include the coil springs; the detailed listing confirms as much. The Spectrum strut does not show a coil spring; I would presume then, that it’s not a part of the strut, it’s simply a shock absorber.
With 190K miles on the Geo, I would opt for the Monroe Quick Strut if you intend to keep the vehicle longer. The better strut will also reduce wear on the front end steering and drive axle components. If budget is an issue, then go with the Econo-Matics all around:
http://www.monroe.com/en-US/catalog/e-Catalog
If you fully read my previous post, it would seem that I am, in fact, helping you out significantly.
dosmaster:
Re-reading your posts regarding work on your suspension system leads me to provide you with the following additional info for your consideration:
First, I do not believe you indicated the current mileage for your vehicle, nor, did you state that earlier suspension work had been performed. Point being that shocks and/or strut assemblies have an average life span of approx. 40K miles, depending on the road conditions and driving habits. At that duration, the ability of the shock to hold it’s hydraulic fluid may be compromised; the resistance rate for the coil springs would have changed as the molecular structure of the steel has fatigued over the duration as well.
This holds true for both the front and rear ends of the vehicle. Remember, the suspension system works in tandem, designed to provide as stiff a platform as possible which results in favorable tire ware, acceptable wheel alignment, and, as you pointed out, shortest possible stopping distances, with
ride comfort notwithstanding. With respect to the split of opinions, metal fatigue and seal leakage are issues that occur over a prolonged period of time and are difficult, at best, to confirm simply by performing a survey of drivers.Regarding the makers of strut assemblies and shocks, one sees a relatively nice paint job on the strut. Not visible, or made known, may be inferior materials such as the steel frame, coil spring, top bracket and nuts which may not meet ASME standards. These components can, in fact, be fabricated using inferior steel which will not perform as well as OEM components. This is not to say that aftermarket parts are inferior, one must be prudent when investigating the Seller and their product.
As far as the rear is concerned, you might be better off installing Monroe Heavy Duty shocks without the coil. I suggest you look into this for your vehicle. A much easier installation as well. As for the front end, your body weight and bounce test may not suffice to simulate strut fatigue. Again, look at the mileage, have the vehicle on the lift to inspect the seals. Remember, having new, stiff suspension parts on one end combined with not too new on the other end is not recommended. A good analogy is placing new tires in the rear and riding with worn ones in the front, a recipe for trouble. I hope all of this helps.
TributeOne
dosmaster:
Re-reading your posts regarding work on your suspension system leads me to provide you with the following additional info for your consideration:
First, I do not believe you indicated the current mileage for your vehicle, nor, did you state that earlier suspension work had been performed. Point being that shocks and/or strut assemblies have an average life span of approx. 40K miles, depending on the road conditions and driving habits. At that duration, the ability of the shock to hold it’s hydraulic fluid may be compromised; the resistance rate for the coil springs would have changed as the molecular structure of the steel has fatigued over the duration as well.
This holds true for both the front and rear ends of the vehicle. Remember, the suspension system works in tandem, designed to provide as stiff a platform as possible which results in favorable tire ware, acceptable wheel alignment, and, as you pointed out, shortest possible stopping distances, with
ride comfort notwithstanding. With respect to the split of opinions, metal fatigue and seal leakage are issues that occur over a prolonged period of time and are difficult, at best, to confirm simply by performing a survey of drivers.Regarding the makers of strut assemblies and shocks, one sees a relatively nice paint job on the strut. Not visible, or made known, may be inferior materials such as the steel frame, coil spring, top bracket and nuts which may not meet ASME standards. These components can, in fact, be fabricated using inferior steel which will not perform as well as OEM components. This is not to say that aftermarket parts are inferior, one must be prudent when investigating the Seller and their product.
As far as the rear is concerned, you might be better off installing Monroe Heavy Duty shocks without the coil. I suggest you look into this for your vehicle. A much easier installation as well. As for the front end, your body weight and bounce test may not suffice to simulate strut fatigue. Again, look at the mileage, have the vehicle on the lift to inspect the seals. Remember, having new, stiff suspension parts on one end combined with not too new on the other end is not recommended. A good analogy is placing new tires in the rear and riding with worn ones in the front, a recipe for trouble. I hope all of this helps.
TributeOne
Look into autopartswarehouse.com for the Monroe Quick Strut. You get the complete assembly in one package, ready to install: Strut frame, shock, coil spring, dust boot, top plate, mounting nuts.
The shock and coil spring are engineered to work together to support both the load of the car and the engine as well as reacting to road irregularities. I would avoid attempting to change out the spring. Unless your a pro, and have the proper equipment, that could be a very dangerous job. Yes, the top plate needs to be changed out; do not attempt to re-use the existing top plate or hardware. Make certain that your vehicle is on the “Exact Fit” list when shopping.Look into autopartswarehouse.com for the Monroe Quick Strut. You get the complete assembly in one package, ready to install: Strut frame, shock, coil spring, dust boot, top plate, mounting nuts.
The shock and coil spring are engineered to work together to support both the load of the car and the engine as well as reacting to road irregularities. I would avoid attempting to change out the spring. Unless your a pro, and have the proper equipment, that could be a very dangerous job. Yes, the top plate needs to be changed out; do not attempt to re-use the existing top plate or hardware. Make certain that your vehicle is on the “Exact Fit” list when shopping.Eric: Re: Location of PCV Valve, 2007 Toyota Solara 3.3L V6
Note attached engine pic taken from the front bumper, LH side is passenger side.
You will see a metal vacuum pot at Left rear in pic. Also note hose just to Left
of that vacuum pot. Below, and to the Right of vacuum pot is PCV valve screwed into
rear exhaust manifold. Some of these components are in my way. Other than the vacuum
pot, can I remove the other hose, or something else that your aware of?Answering your Q: Bought the Solara (convertible) new in 2007; great car. With all my cars,
I keep them for quite some time; do not lease. I perform preventative maintenance such as
cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor, Idle Control Valve, Throttle Body, engine and cabin air filters, belts and hoses if needed, change out of fluids, ignition coils and plugs if needed. The PCV Valve, if clogged, can affect overall engine performance and fuel economy as well as throwing a Code. I would prefer to replace rather than clean as I would have to remove it anyway. (Are you able to view the attachment?)TributeOne
IMG_4705ars.jpg
Eric: Re: Location of PCV Valve, 2007 Toyota Solara 3.3L V6
Note attached engine pic taken from the front bumper, LH side is passenger side.
You will see a metal vacuum pot at Left rear in pic. Also note hose just to Left
of that vacuum pot. Below, and to the Right of vacuum pot is PCV valve screwed into
rear exhaust manifold. Some of these components are in my way. Other than the vacuum
pot, can I remove the other hose, or something else that your aware of?Answering your Q: Bought the Solara (convertible) new in 2007; great car. With all my cars,
I keep them for quite some time; do not lease. I perform preventative maintenance such as
cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor, Idle Control Valve, Throttle Body, engine and cabin air filters, belts and hoses if needed, change out of fluids, ignition coils and plugs if needed. The PCV Valve, if clogged, can affect overall engine performance and fuel economy as well as throwing a Code. I would prefer to replace rather than clean as I would have to remove it anyway. (Are you able to view the attachment?)TributeOne
IMG_4705ars.jpg
Karl: Re: PCV Valve Access, ’07 Solara, 3.3L V6
The 19mm wrench is not the issue; should you have photos of the 3MZFE V6 engine, you will note there are several components in and around the PCV valve such as a vacuum pot, some other hoses, etc. Those are the items I need help with. Can you advise me which ones I can temporarily remove to gain leverage for removing the PCV valve?
Karl: Re: PCV Valve Access, ’07 Solara, 3.3L V6
The 19mm wrench is not the issue; should you have photos of the 3MZFE V6 engine, you will note there are several components in and around the PCV valve such as a vacuum pot, some other hoses, etc. Those are the items I need help with. Can you advise me which ones I can temporarily remove to gain leverage for removing the PCV valve?
