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I know this is an older car but see if you have a similar problem, good luck. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giENZskoE6w
not sure if link is working but go to realfixesrealfast.com and check the break bleed job on the general lee. I know it is older but might be a similar problem. http://www.realfixesrealfast.com/realfixesrealfast.com/Brakes/Pages/Brakes_hard_to_bleed.html
Are you looking at it like it is vertical because your strut i believe is at an angle and the strut tower is at a slight different angle so the difference is to compensate, Is there a indentation where the spring should sit against like where the spring sits against at bottom of strut, can not tell from side view.
you say does not overheat when a/c is on so I don’t think there is anything wrong with cooling system, when a/c on pcm will start cooling fan so no overheating. A/C off you overheat. sounds to me like your fan does not come on. Tell me if fan is on when it gets hot with a/c off. need to check wiring to temperature sending this sending unit will ground the fan when coolant get hot enough to start the fan. I believe you may have two wires coming out of the temp. sending unit, you can ground it with key on engine off (KOEO) and it should start fan if not sounds like the sending unit . if it is I explained how to change it to minimize fluid loss, good luck.
when you put water in did you open the bleeder screw, I think you have one might be near thermostat. I apologize if I miss understood you when I read it the first time, I thought you meant turn to heat then turn to cool meaning A/C is now turned on. Check for the bleeder there may be air in there.
you need three things for it to run, Spark, fuel, and air. See if you can narrow which on you don’t have then let us know. Also was there anything you noticed when you did drive, wanting to stall, hesitation when accelerating, bad shake in idle, etc. this will help us narrow it down, one other thing , relax.
I was looking at that pic of the center hub nut, is that on right torqued right because it looks like the tab on bolt was not bent to lock in the nut. a bit hard to tell from the pic. but that is what i see. I wonder if they are suppose to be those captive rotors and someone pull the hub from the bearing to change the rotor and messed up. Hope that is not the problem.
I wonder if it is a bad bearing when you say it is louder making left. Take a look at center hub nut like I said in other reply.
i would soak with plenty of penetrating spray. I had to remove water pump bolt that went into water jacket and I can say hand tool was the way to go. I would loosen a little bit then lube then go back in then back out a little more then in till it came out, I believe it would have snapped if just tried to pull it out impact or hand tools. bolt rusted bad. replaced bolt and cleaned mounting treads with tap.
well to be honest once you put the wheel and lug nuts on there should be no play on the brake rotor . There are a lot of cars that don’t have those retaining bolts. two to hold them on and two for helping to take them off. I believe they are there to keep the rotor on at the factory so it won’t fall off and kill someone. Ask the wife when does she notice the shake, when applying brakes, going down road at constant speed, accelerating, turning, at what speed. etc. Could be flat or bubble on tire, wheel out of balance, warped rotor, etc. lets do a little more digging, good luck.
hello, I would start by saying the fan comes on when the a/c is on because the a/c switch turns it on so that the car does not overheat. Do you see the fan turn on when it starts to overheat with the a/c switched off? If fan is not working then it could be your temp. sending unit or the wires from sending unit to fan. If you end up replacing the sending unit, let the car cool down then prep new one to be ready to install because when you remove the old one coolant will start to come out and you can replace new one right away so not to lose much. Don’t forget to replace any lost coolant.
First thing is that I would start with cleaning the throttle body. They tend to get gunked up. Since you have fuel injection you should not have to give it gas. When you start it the throttle body should let a little air passed it for idle, one other thing is the idle air control valve (IAC) could be dirty, that may need a little cleaning. Cost is just throttle body cleaner, Is your air filter clean? Do you have any other symptoms when you are driving? The reason I ask is that if there are other thing going on with drivability that could help with diagnosis.
Are the pads getting a hot smell when you do drive for a longer distance. Hard to describe the smell but very noticible when they start to really drag and get hot . One other thing that comes to mind is was the master cylinder replaced because sometimes one needs to adjust the part going into back of master cylinder or that may put a little pressure on master cylinder causing the drag. Good luck, keep us posted.
when you changed the struts was there a rubber isolater that went between the top of the strut and the strut housing, the part of the vehicle you bolt it to. Here is a shot in the dark, could you have a loose exhaust system , control arm bushing that is bad. do you have good dampening from the struts, since you say you can push it up and down fairly easy, could struts be going bad again? I have heard of others thinking it could be bad motor mounts, I think that one might be reaching but who knows, keep us posted and maybe tomorrow you will get a few more suggestions, take it easy.