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Tri9SS

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 148 total)
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  • in reply to: parts #651720
    Tri9SSTri9SS
    Participant

      Funny thing is I have been getting brake parts from Autozone with no problem. I do get their top of the line pads not the 20.00 dollar pads. They come with the hardware kit. My daily driver is now 19 years old and I have had it since new. I am still running the original rotors. I have not had any ill effects. I have no problem with O’Reilly’s, AutoZone, napa, or even Pep Boys. When you get the pads just also get the hardware kit with them. I hope no one thinks I am trying to contridict them just sharing my experience. take it easy and good luck.

      in reply to: parts #644899
      Tri9SSTri9SS
      Participant

        Funny thing is I have been getting brake parts from Autozone with no problem. I do get their top of the line pads not the 20.00 dollar pads. They come with the hardware kit. My daily driver is now 19 years old and I have had it since new. I am still running the original rotors. I have not had any ill effects. I have no problem with O’Reilly’s, AutoZone, napa, or even Pep Boys. When you get the pads just also get the hardware kit with them. I hope no one thinks I am trying to contridict them just sharing my experience. take it easy and good luck.

        in reply to: 2013 Hyundai Elantra – Brake Clicking Sound #651718
        Tri9SSTri9SS
        Participant

          If you hear it when stopped and not moving then I would suspect the pedal linkage. If coming up through the floor board I am not sure. One thing I do know you should be under warranty I think, so let the dealer check it out if you do not find it.

          in reply to: 2013 Hyundai Elantra – Brake Clicking Sound #644895
          Tri9SSTri9SS
          Participant

            If you hear it when stopped and not moving then I would suspect the pedal linkage. If coming up through the floor board I am not sure. One thing I do know you should be under warranty I think, so let the dealer check it out if you do not find it.

            in reply to: chevy s10 no heat #651717
            Tri9SSTri9SS
            Participant

              I would start by feeling the heater hoses when truck is at operating temp. Be careful, they do get hot, and feel is both are hot. do not run the heater fan because that would cool one of the hoses as air passes through the core.. They both should be hot if not you may have a blocked heater core. If it checks out ok then I would check the blend door that diverts the air though the heater core to give you heat. One thing I had once was when I would turn the knob to heat, it would not turn the shaft on the switch all the way to heat side because the knob was cracked and would spin on the shaft but not rotate it. good luck and hope this gives you a starting point.

              in reply to: chevy s10 no heat #644893
              Tri9SSTri9SS
              Participant

                I would start by feeling the heater hoses when truck is at operating temp. Be careful, they do get hot, and feel is both are hot. do not run the heater fan because that would cool one of the hoses as air passes through the core.. They both should be hot if not you may have a blocked heater core. If it checks out ok then I would check the blend door that diverts the air though the heater core to give you heat. One thing I had once was when I would turn the knob to heat, it would not turn the shaft on the switch all the way to heat side because the knob was cracked and would spin on the shaft but not rotate it. good luck and hope this gives you a starting point.

                in reply to: 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9l HVAC problems?! #651258
                Tri9SSTri9SS
                Participant

                  check out this video at real fixesreal fast. http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfixesrealfast.com/Heat_%26_Air/Pages/HVAC_Mode_Door_Problem.html if you can’t click then cut and past. good video. hope this helps, good luck.

                  in reply to: 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9l HVAC problems?! #644015
                  Tri9SSTri9SS
                  Participant

                    check out this video at real fixesreal fast. http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfixesrealfast.com/Heat_%26_Air/Pages/HVAC_Mode_Door_Problem.html if you can’t click then cut and past. good video. hope this helps, good luck.

                    in reply to: Seat belt warning driving momma crazy #651194
                    Tri9SSTri9SS
                    Participant

                      First do like Ukrkoz said, chek connector to see if loose. my car had similar problem. I just unpluged the connector where the belt wire connects under the seat, my light went out I do not have a buzzer. The way my car is set up is when you connect the seat belt it stopped the continuity of the circuit. My problem was in the seat belt where you connect the belt latch. the latch went bad.

                      in reply to: Seat belt warning driving momma crazy #643908
                      Tri9SSTri9SS
                      Participant

                        First do like Ukrkoz said, chek connector to see if loose. my car had similar problem. I just unpluged the connector where the belt wire connects under the seat, my light went out I do not have a buzzer. The way my car is set up is when you connect the seat belt it stopped the continuity of the circuit. My problem was in the seat belt where you connect the belt latch. the latch went bad.

                        in reply to: 2009 Impala 3.5L No Crank #650678
                        Tri9SSTri9SS
                        Participant

                          two thing that come to mind is alarm system is activated and needs to be cycled close open close open. the one thing I really think is, if it has one, the passkey VATS system. when you put the key in the on position and all the light come on see if the passkey or vats light comes on, do not crank just give it a few seconds to recognize the key. Once the key is recognized the light should go out then it should crank. lastly just a thought maybe the starter relay. good luck, and take care.

                          in reply to: 2009 Impala 3.5L No Crank #642891
                          Tri9SSTri9SS
                          Participant

                            two thing that come to mind is alarm system is activated and needs to be cycled close open close open. the one thing I really think is, if it has one, the passkey VATS system. when you put the key in the on position and all the light come on see if the passkey or vats light comes on, do not crank just give it a few seconds to recognize the key. Once the key is recognized the light should go out then it should crank. lastly just a thought maybe the starter relay. good luck, and take care.

                            in reply to: Intermittent power window #650677
                            Tri9SSTri9SS
                            Participant

                              You said it seems to get stuck, I would also check for binding. I had one that would get stuck about half way down, pulled the door panel off and when I lifted up on the bottom of glass just a second I would break it loose. I cleaned it up and greased it up and now works normal. been good for the last eight months.

                              in reply to: Intermittent power window #642889
                              Tri9SSTri9SS
                              Participant

                                You said it seems to get stuck, I would also check for binding. I had one that would get stuck about half way down, pulled the door panel off and when I lifted up on the bottom of glass just a second I would break it loose. I cleaned it up and greased it up and now works normal. been good for the last eight months.

                                in reply to: 2003 Trailblazer P0172 System Too Rich (Help Plz) #650676
                                Tri9SSTri9SS
                                Participant

                                  Check fuel pressure regulator, could be leaking internally. I have tested some pressure regulator by removing the vacuum line at the regulator right after running vehicle and found fuel in the line. I have also just removed the vacuum line while engine running held finger over vacuum line and the regulator spit out fuel just be careful, fuel can ignite. one other thing I seen done is to temporally replace the vacuum line with clear line then you will see fuel being sucked into the vacuum line. if you find fuel then it is leaking inside the diaphram.

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