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I was thinking the switch was not fully disengaging. If it is a two wire switch maybe you can do ohm test. I am not sure of the values though.
I agree with evil-i, I think it is fuel pressure problem. Sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off. fuel can bleed off several different ways, fuel pump check valve, fuel injectors,fuel pressure regulator, and leak. Now I think the black soot is because you are getting extra fuel. That tells me to start with fuel pressure gauge to be sure you are loosing pressure, now if you do not have a gauge, I would start by pulling the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. To be safe, if you can replace it with clear hose just for the test, then you can see if fuel is being pulled through the diaphragm of the regulator. If you see fuel in the hose then it is bad. I think you are getting the extra fuel through that hose, or you have a bad fuel injector that is not completely shutting off or staying on longer then it should.
Since you say you hear the fan operating normally, I would look at the fan switch. I am not sure where yours would be but I think it is at the thermostat housing. when you hear it clicking or running when it is not suppose to be, like when the car is off, then disconnect the plug to the fan switch. Now if it shuts off I would suspect the switch. I would also give that wire a good look to make sure you do not have a short to ground.
On my car you are able to shut that function off so now the lights go on and off with the switch manually like the old days not automatically. If you are able to shut the function off then try disabling it and using the switch manually.
I agree with nightflyr, I also had the same problem with my 1996 Impala SS. turned out that all I did was to re-flow the solder for the odometer. Still good and it has been more then 12 years.
Could be radiator cap not letting the coolant to be pulled back in radiator from overflow after it cools. I have also seen the hose that transfers the coolant from radiator to overflow to be loose or leak, and when it goes to pull the coolant back it also sucks air. So when cool check the hose to the overflow is good and also if it goes through the lid of the overflow, check hose in the overflow, if those good, then maybe the cap could be the problem. Sorry did not realize you changed the radiator cap.
you are right the way I have done it is pull the red lock tab out about half way then work on the pulling the connector. could be stuck with grime. look at the fuel injector connectors if visible I believe they have the same red lock.
Sorry but I can not hear much on the video. I would check the pulleys and also the idler pulleys. If it is easy to do so you can remove the fan belts and start the car for a couple of seconds to see if noise went away. If noise goes away then one of the belt pulleys is making the noise. If the noise is not gone, then you could rule the pulleys out as the culprit.
I believe that if you turn on the heater it then helps to cool it down some I think you should make sure you are getting good air flow through the condenser and the radiator. I know you said the fans come on like they should. Make sure there is nothing in front of the condenser or leaves and such between condenser and radiator that would restrict air flow.
check connection at horn to make sure it is tight and verify that it only works in the same position. press horn button, have car on so you can turn steering wheel. If it goes on and off with steering wheel turning, I would suspect the clock spring behind the steering wheel.
I would do the same thing and put back together. I would bleed it and if no leaks leave it alone. Now if it was rusty in the bore I would replace it or at least hone it and rebuild.
You should check to see if you need a new tensioner . I would think the spring that puts the tension on the belt is weak. When you drive the car see if you can tell what tire seems to have that brake smell, then remove and check slid pin and piston are not stuck. good luck.
well I am going by my car. there is a safety switch that only allows the gear shift to move out of park or back into reverse or park when in drive when pressing the brake. that is so you do not put it in drive or reverse or back to park without the brake applied. the brake pedal has the switch that activates a solenoid that lets you move the gear shift. If coming from under the console I would remove the console and see if it is the solenoid. see if there is an access panel by chance so you do not have to remove all the trim pieces. good luck and take it easy.
well I am going by my car. there is a safety switch that only allows the gear shift to move out of park or back into reverse or park when in drive when pressing the brake. that is so you do not put it in drive or reverse or back to park without the brake applied. the brake pedal has the switch that activates a solenoid that lets you move the gear shift. If coming from under the console I would remove the console and see if it is the solenoid. see if there is an access panel by chance so you do not have to remove all the trim pieces. good luck and take it easy.