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I bought a OEM one and it seems like it’s build good for the money.
It was only like $40 or $50 bucks.Quoted From dreamer2355:
The MTG 2500 also know as the ‘Brick’ was pretty useful back in the day. Its a shame its outdated and no longer updateable. I think 05 was the last update for them before the Modis came out? (Someone please correct me if im wrong here).
Nevertheless i still enjoy using them and would have one in my tool box C8-)
I think the updates went up to 08, But it’s what i can afford and it’s much better then a cheap generic code reader.
Anything newer then 08 would probably still be covered by the factory warranty anyway.C8-)Have you check all your fueses?
I think this has two relays for the blower motor.
Does it work on any settings?Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
To find exhaust leaks I usually plug the tail pipe with a shop rag while the engine is running and listen for leaks. If it stalls then you probably don’t have any leaks. It’s not a good idea and is illegal in some states to run your car without a cat.
I do the same thing with the palm of my hand.. haha
There is only one word i have to say to make little 4 bangers have more power ( turbo) WwhhooosssHH.T)
I just got my snapon mtg-2500 today that i bought off of ebay.
I still need to buy some other cables and software for it.., but I’m happy with what it does now (abs,air bag, pcm, bcm, antitheft, bydirectional controls) on domestic vehicles, I have another software coming that does domestic and asian 1980-2005. It also does generic code reading too for the cars i dont have software for.October 9, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: 98 honda accord 2.3L VTEC rough idle and coolant temp and ot #442051The miss fire probably trashed your cat converter if it’s been like that for a while.
I would be looking for manly a spark problem on you miss firing cylinder.
How long has it been since this thing has had new plugs?
The cat code is from unburnt fuel going into the converter.
Test for spark on the missing cylinder by using a spark tester, You can get them at any auto parts stores pretty much.Hey Tim, My names Tim too. haha
So your removing the tranny to replace the torque converter?
First thing is to have a good repair manual or software, read everything twice, have a good camera when taking it apart so if theres anything you
think you won’t remember how it goes just take some good pictures, and TAKE YOUR TIME.Quoted From ssd16:
Obviously it won’t retrieve trouble codes. What I am suggesting is that a low oil level may be causing the trouble light to come on over rough terrain… it happened to me. My engine light started to flicker going over rough spots and in turns, turned out the cause was a cavitating oil pump/low oil pressure because of a low oil level.
I never saw a check engine light do that when the oil was low.
Do you mean the oil light or was it really the CEL?loose or bad gas cap can cause EVAP codes.
That’s the first thing i would check.Quoted From matthewmartinez:
Yes its almost like its missing. I had a ford f150 at one time that was missing on two of the cylinders and it felt similer.
Ok, Did you watch Erics video?
I think i got the link fixed now.
Quoted From matthewmartinez:
Yes its almost like its missing. I had a ford f150 at one time that was missing on two of the cylinders and it felt similer.
Ok, Did you watch Erics video?
I think i got the link fixed now.
If it has not been changed for 6 years i probably would not do it.
Keep it full and be easy on it. all i can say.Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That’s what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problemRunning rough… as in a miss fire?
I would do a power balance test on it.
Eric has a video on how to do it.
Heres a link to the video, if it doesn’t work just go to youtube.com and type in (Ericthecarguy power balance test) hope this helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjEPS: A compression test and fuel pressure test wouldn’t hurt either.T)
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