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Trcustoms719

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Viewing 15 replies - 901 through 915 (of 940 total)
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  • in reply to: Affordable and Safe Spring Compressor #443316
    Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
    Participant

      I bought a OEM one and it seems like it’s build good for the money.
      It was only like $40 or $50 bucks.

      in reply to: Are you happy with your code reader? #443938
      Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
      Participant

        Quoted From dreamer2355:

        The MTG 2500 also know as the ‘Brick’ was pretty useful back in the day. Its a shame its outdated and no longer updateable. I think 05 was the last update for them before the Modis came out? (Someone please correct me if im wrong here).

        Nevertheless i still enjoy using them and would have one in my tool box C8-)

        I think the updates went up to 08, But it’s what i can afford and it’s much better then a cheap generic code reader.
        Anything newer then 08 would probably still be covered by the factory warranty anyway.C8-)

        in reply to: 96 acura tl heater blower motor #441372
        Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
        Participant

          Have you check all your fueses?
          I think this has two relays for the blower motor.
          Does it work on any settings?

          in reply to: exhaust smell #444987
          Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
          Participant

            Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:

            To find exhaust leaks I usually plug the tail pipe with a shop rag while the engine is running and listen for leaks. If it stalls then you probably don’t have any leaks. It’s not a good idea and is illegal in some states to run your car without a cat.

            I do the same thing with the palm of my hand.. haha

            in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450644
            Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
            Participant

              There is only one word i have to say to make little 4 bangers have more power ( turbo) WwhhooosssHH.T)

              in reply to: Are you happy with your code reader? #443936
              Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
              Participant

                I just got my snapon mtg-2500 today that i bought off of ebay.
                I still need to buy some other cables and software for it.., but I’m happy with what it does now (abs,air bag, pcm, bcm, antitheft, bydirectional controls) on domestic vehicles, I have another software coming that does domestic and asian 1980-2005. It also does generic code reading too for the cars i dont have software for.

                Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                Participant

                  The miss fire probably trashed your cat converter if it’s been like that for a while.
                  I would be looking for manly a spark problem on you miss firing cylinder.
                  How long has it been since this thing has had new plugs?
                  The cat code is from unburnt fuel going into the converter.
                  Test for spark on the missing cylinder by using a spark tester, You can get them at any auto parts stores pretty much.

                  in reply to: ‘TCC code’ to ‘dead transmission’ (pic heavy!) #455278
                  Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                  Participant

                    Hey Tim, My names Tim too. haha

                    So your removing the tranny to replace the torque converter?
                    First thing is to have a good repair manual or software, read everything twice, have a good camera when taking it apart so if theres anything you
                    think you won’t remember how it goes just take some good pictures, and TAKE YOUR TIME.

                    in reply to: 1991 Dodge Ram Check Engine Light #435302
                    Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                    Participant

                      Quoted From ssd16:

                      Obviously it won’t retrieve trouble codes. What I am suggesting is that a low oil level may be causing the trouble light to come on over rough terrain… it happened to me. My engine light started to flicker going over rough spots and in turns, turned out the cause was a cavitating oil pump/low oil pressure because of a low oil level.

                      I never saw a check engine light do that when the oil was low.
                      Do you mean the oil light or was it really the CEL?

                      in reply to: need help with an audi a4 #450003
                      Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                      Participant

                        loose or bad gas cap can cause EVAP codes.
                        That’s the first thing i would check.

                        in reply to: Rough riding engine #453422
                        Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                        Participant

                          Quoted From matthewmartinez:

                          Yes its almost like its missing. I had a ford f150 at one time that was missing on two of the cylinders and it felt similer.

                          Ok, Did you watch Erics video?

                          I think i got the link fixed now.

                          in reply to: Rough riding engine #453435
                          Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                          Participant

                            Quoted From matthewmartinez:

                            Yes its almost like its missing. I had a ford f150 at one time that was missing on two of the cylinders and it felt similer.

                            Ok, Did you watch Erics video?

                            I think i got the link fixed now.

                            in reply to: Transmission flush? chevy corsica automatic #456230
                            Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                            Participant

                              If it has not been changed for 6 years i probably would not do it.
                              Keep it full and be easy on it. all i can say.

                              in reply to: Won’t Start #458241
                              Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                              Participant

                                Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That’s what we have to look for.

                                These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

                                1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

                                2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

                                3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

                                4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

                                Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
                                you will know which system is having the problem

                                in reply to: Rough riding engine #453420
                                Trcustoms719Trcustoms719
                                Participant

                                  Running rough… as in a miss fire?
                                  I would do a power balance test on it.
                                  Eric has a video on how to do it.
                                  Heres a link to the video, if it doesn’t work just go to youtube.com and type in (Ericthecarguy power balance test) hope this helps.
                                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE

                                  PS: A compression test and fuel pressure test wouldn’t hurt either.T)

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