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Here is a picture of the return line location. Your transmission will have the Jiffy Tite type fitting requiring you to remove the wire clip. It is easier to disconnect at trans as if you disconnect at rad you have no way to attach a hose. Good luck and put down card board or some thing to catch the mess and it will make a mess :ohmy: .
My information shows that it is RE0F10A. It looks like they used it from 07-12 . This is a CVT transmission. You will have to call a salvage yard or remanufacturer to determine what gear ratio your transmission is. Good luck.
That year and engine could have 3 different transmissions. A 125 which is a 3 speed,TH440-T4 4 speed hydraulic or the 4T60-E a 4 speed electronic control.
And the all will have the symptoms you are having and common when the TCC system fails. The 125 has a solenoid that goes bad. the 440 and the 4T60E have a orifice screen that breaks and will need replaced. Nether is a quick fix as they are under the side cover which has to be removed and with the 4T60E the valve body has to be removed. Good luck and let us know how things work out. If it is the 3speed you can unplug the case electrical connection and be able to drive for a while but needs to get fixed as you are disabling the TC clutch and not a permanent fix.Yes there is a dip stick. It will have a loop handle with a yellow cover. It is short and close to the side of the transmission.Have vehicle at operating temp with engine off to check level.
The only element applied in all forward gears is the forward clutch pack. So either you forward clutches have failed or you have a striped splines or broken snap ring for front planet hub. Which will require transmission to be removed and taken apart. Let us know what you find out. Good luck.
Sounds like typical torque converter failure. Problem is when they fail the tend to compromise the pump with debris. And with that kind of mileage it more than likely is damaged also. Overhaul or replacement with a reman or used unit is about your only options. Good luck. Let us know how things turn out.
You are very welcome. So glad everything worked out for you and thanks for the update. Now you have R&R experience with a transmission the next step would be transmission repair and overhaul. 🙂
Looks to be just a different manufacturer. As long as Over All height and diameter are the same I would not think twice about installing it. You have a one of a kind vehicle with that setup. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!
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2010 Mazda 6 L4-2.5L
Vehicle » Specifications » Fluid Type Specifications » Manual Transmission/Transaxle » Fluid – M/T
FLUID – M/T
Manual Transaxle OilType API GL-4 or GL-5
Viscosity
All temperatures SAE 75W-90
Above 50°F (10°C) 80W-90Capacity 3.01 qt (2.85L)
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Do you have a ck engine light on or OD light flashing? If so get it scanned by a competent repair shop that has the proper software and equipment to retrieve the codes. Don’t use a code reader. Sounds like you could have a bad sensor on the trans or engine. Later model transmissions rely on inputs from many systems to adjust for shifting strategy. Let us know what you find out..
You can guess at things all day. The only way to answer the questions and repair the problem is to remove the transmission and see what has happened and make a plan to repair it. You are probably going to find something along the lines of this.
You might get lucky and have it seal back up. Let’s hope. Sounds like maybe a job a friend that has some experience can help you with. There is a lot of small things that need done when removing an automatic to ensure you won’t spend a bunch of money needlessly. Good luck.
