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If you read the description it is for transmission.
Fluid choice will work and you can add a drain plug to your existing pan for a few dollars and drilling a 1/2 hole
Attachments:You are at the mercy of Honda on all parts other than overhaul kit,converter,filter and shift kit. Aftermarket has some solenoids available but not all applications. I have found some used hard parts dealers for Honda but but gets quite confusing identifying parts by casting numbers and date codes. You order and hope you get the right part! I would bet with the year and model of your car . 4cyl will have a BAXA transmission V6 will be B7XA. Let me know what code is on the trans and I will give you the values to look for on the solenoids. I soak them in heated WD-40 to clean them,check OHMs and with a bench top power supply I will apply power to activate and check for proper sealing. I also will OHM the solenoids at room temp and then apply heat from heat gun and check for changes. I would suggest that you change the bushings in the shafts. You will have to make up some kind of tooling to remove and install them. Or have a shop that is capable do it for you. These units are noted for bushing wear probably not addressed in past build is why you got such a short life span. Please keep us posted. Also take lots of pictures before and during disassembly for reference. Good luck!
I would seriously consider having a rebuild done by a transmission shop. This is not a transmission to learn on. Yes to the new torque converter , I test the solenoids and if good flush and reinstall. They are VERY expensive to buy. Also shift kit is a yes. If the last rebuild only lasted 12 months you need a diffrent shop or something is worn internally. Here is a picture of most of the parts of a Honda.
Attachments:Yes it should move. Did you get the manual valve put back in place?
34 in parts breakdown. Honda #Part Number: 37300-PD2-661. Looks to be discontinued. Haven’t a clue to what the values should be. I will try to do some research on the spec tomorrow.
Air/Ambient temperature sensor.
What is the fluid level and condition? Is the D lindicator blinking? What you are describing is very common on these transmissions. The filter will clog when you are driving and after it sits a while debris settles out of filter and will work again till it starts to slip. When the PCM sees a slip it raises line pressure giving you the harsh engagements and shifting. You need to have it scanned with the proper software not a code reader. Let us know what you find.
BradKeep us posted on progress. :cheer:
There is no way of bench testing the converter. What you are experiencing is a plugged filter.The filter will plug with clutch lining over time and plug the filter and the suction through the plugged filter is creating the noise. After sitting for a bit the debris will fall away from the filter and allow the transmission to engage again until it draws up enough junk to plug it again. The transmission has the filter inside requiring it to be removed and disassembled to change. Time for a rebuild/remanufactured or used transmission.
Here is some info on testing.
Attachments:From what I can gather from your info the car will move for a bit then quit moving in all gears then after sitting for a while it will move again and then quit. Is this what is happening? These units are notorious for bad torque converters and that is the symptom that I described and it will only get worse over time. Clutch lining will also get drawn up into the filter and with enough material will block off suction. Then after sitting it will fall back away from the filter allowing it to draw fluid again.
Make sure you have the correct filter. Early used a shallow pan and later use a deep pan. 1996 and up will be the deep pan. The piece of gasket material you found will be from the pump Gasket it won’t hurt a thing. The gasket just bridges the opening where the filter goes. does not seal anything .
Chances are the clutch packs have burnt and fused together. What is the fluid condition and level? Color,smell.
I believe you are going to have to roll engine/trans to get the holes to line up. Use a piece of wood and jack under the exhaust manifold to raise the front and see if that will bring stuff into alignment. If not use the jack and wood under intake side.
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