Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Agreed. But here’s the rest of the story. One of the other lugs was spinning in the hub and was a major pia getting the lug nut off. Either the bolt spline or the hub spline is ruined and probably wallowed out. Hence the new hub/bearing approach.
Well, you guys were spot on. Sure enough, the balance shaft seal has popped out. On the bright side, the car is due for water pump & timing belts service so I’ll be adding replacement of all 3 seals and a balance shaft seal retainer to the list. Thanks to Eric’s video, which I purchased about 3 years ago, the job was pretty straight forward on the wife’s ’01 so I know what I’m getting into. I didn’t add the retainer on her car but I will be going back in and adding it to hers “just in case”. I could have sworn I read somewhere that Honda was aware of the problem and had solved it back in ’98. Maybe the solution was the retainer?
Now, to the root cause. Excess oil pressure? Clogged PCV? Or merely a worn seal which finally worked its way loose? Any other ideas?
Well, you guys were spot on. Sure enough, the balance shaft seal has popped out. On the bright side, the car is due for water pump & timing belts service so I’ll be adding replacement of all 3 seals and a balance shaft seal retainer to the list. Thanks to Eric’s video, which I purchased about 3 years ago, the job was pretty straight forward on the wife’s ’01 so I know what I’m getting into. I didn’t add the retainer on her car but I will be going back in and adding it to hers “just in case”. I could have sworn I read somewhere that Honda was aware of the problem and had solved it back in ’98. Maybe the solution was the retainer?
Now, to the root cause. Excess oil pressure? Clogged PCV? Or merely a worn seal which finally worked its way loose? Any other ideas?
Last night, I took the key fob apart and cleaned the switch contacts with 1000 grit sandpaper. There was a fair amount of oxidation on the “clicker” switch actuator. Cleaning seemed to help immensely. At least now I’ve got some lock/unlock activation range back. For now, I’m giving this problem a green light for being solved. Of course, that assumes that I know how to turn on the green light :whistle:
Last night, I took the key fob apart and cleaned the switch contacts with 1000 grit sandpaper. There was a fair amount of oxidation on the “clicker” switch actuator. Cleaning seemed to help immensely. At least now I’ve got some lock/unlock activation range back. For now, I’m giving this problem a green light for being solved. Of course, that assumes that I know how to turn on the green light :whistle:
Interesting. I hadn’t thought about the actuators as possible culprits. Those are basically small DC motors or solenoids, right? Any way to determine which one(s) might be flaking out?
Interesting. I hadn’t thought about the actuators as possible culprits. Those are basically small DC motors or solenoids, right? Any way to determine which one(s) might be flaking out?
Prior to the differential bearings failing in my transmission–same trans as yours—I questioned 3 different Honda dealers about “power flushing” the transmission. All three stated that “power flushing” will likely dislodge junk in the transmission which will eventually clog the valve body and various valves. The recommended Honda procedure for “full fluid exchange” is drain and fill 3-4 times over a 3-4 week period. While this won’t give you 100% fresh fluid in the trans, it’s apparently about 95%. As an alternate, and this is what the dealer does for a “transmission service”, drain and fill approximately 3 quarts. Hondas of this era don’t have serviceable transmission filters. Sorry to say that if you’ve got burnt fluid, your transmission is already likely cooked.
A couple of questions I’d pose to whomever did your transmission service:
Did they do a “power flush” or the drain and fill procedure?
Did they use Honda Z1 fluid or its replacement DW1?I’ve read a few accounts on the Honda forums where the new DW1 doesn’t play well with older transmissions. While it does help eliminate the cold start 1-2 “shift slam”, it may also cause nearly worn out clutch packs to start to slip. I never had a chance to try DW1 in my trans before the bearings gave out, so, I can’t comment one way or the other.
Here is an example of OE axle assemblies for a 1998 Auto Accord:
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Produ … %20%283%29
Items 4 and 5 are the complete axle assemblies and as you can see, they are quite pricey. Shipping probably adds another $50-$100 depending on whether you’re replacing one or both.
My experience wasn’t good with O’reilly Master Pro Select axles, but for $70 vs $485, I suppose you get what you pay for. It probably comes down to how much longer you intend to keep the car and whether or not you like swapping out axles every 1-2 years.
Ordinarily, I would agree that returning to the trans shop is the obvious option. However, unless the source of the problem can be tied directly to the transmission, ie torque converter, I won’t be returning to the trans shop. For background http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topi … 080&PAGE=1.
Where I need help is in isolating and eliminating potential causes. Thus far, I’ve checked all mount fasteners except the rear and as stated, haven’t observed any abnormal engine rocking. Before I start pulling off the intake, fuel rail, heater hoses, etc, etc, I’d rather check for proper function of that which controls the rear mount. Hence my control module question.
OK, I’m headed for Vegas. What are the chances that tires can somehow go out of round coincidentally with a transmission swap? I would have never bet on it, however, the switch to Michilens cured the rotational thumping vibration and provide a significantly quieter ride. So quiet, that the engine vibration is now quite apparent. I suspect the engine vibration was masked by the magnitude of the rotational thumping vibration.
I’m calling this one solved and, after a lenghty test drive, starting a new new thread on engine vibration diagnosis……….
Actually, I did check with the BBB prior to choosing this shop–no complaints on record, business incorporated in 1986. I also checked with the county clerk for current or past legal action. Nothing on record. So, given the combination of my own reference checking, their longevity in business and apparent “clean” record, I “thought” I was on pretty solid ground.
On the good news front, I’ve figured out a way to ditch the Goodyears and replace them with Michelin Primacys at virtually no cost. So, long about next Friday, I’ll know once and for all if this whole mess has been tire related from the get-go. If so, I owe the trans shop a huge apology albeit with a jaundice eye.
I agree, their explanation of orienting the torque converter to the “correct” position sounded like BS when I heard it. At that point, I was so fed up that I didn’t even challenge them. So, lessons learned:
I’ll take more than half the blame. After all, I picked the shop. They claimed, and I verified, that they had done several trans swaps on Odysseys. Accords? I should have pushed them more regarding Accords. However, is the Odyssey front suspension and transmission mounting THAT much different than an Accord? Maybe Eric could comment when he gets a chance.
Was it worth the $1k I “saved” compared the dealer installed Honda transmission? Nope!
I’m a rank amateur at DIY car maintenance. I’ve drawn the line at timing belt/water pump replacement due to lack of knowledge, tools and facility. I know most if not all of you guys are way up the learning/experience curve compared to me. I can only say to those that do find themselves in a position where you must entrust your car to someone else for major service, vet the hell out them before you turn over the keys.
So, the saga continues. In answer to the directional tire question, yes the Goodyear’s are directional. Grasping at straws, I had the tire shop dismount the front tires and swap them side to side. So, now I’ve had the tires rotated back to front and back, the fronts side to side. Front end rotational vibration is constant.
As for the idle vibration, the trans shop apparently cured it by “rotating the torque converter to the correct, balanced position”. I’ve never seen the trans pulled out of an Accord, but aren’t there some sort of locating pins or indicators for the correct orientation? Not sure why they couldn’t get it right the first time, however, idle is now smooth as silk.
As for the rotational vibration, their solution was to replace the right axle, claiming they observed “excessive whip” in the OE axle. Well, in my experience, both of our 2001 Accords have a scary amount of axle whip with the suspension unloaded and the car up on jackstands. As I was backing out of their parking lot, and with the shop owner standing right in front of the car, I hear this loud pop. Needless to say, I pulled right back in and told them to pull out their POS aftermarket axle and put the OE axle back in.
Suffice it to say, I’m done with these guys trying to figure out what the root cause of the rotational vibration is. I have no complaints at all with performance of the transmission. It does exactly what I expect it to do and significantly better than the OE which it replaced.
Not sure where I go from here, but somehow, I have to eliminate the tires as the cause once and for all. Maybe I can get a set of Michelins as a loaner?! LOL