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When I’m stuck at the dealership I ring toyota technical to which they often reply “we haven’t come across that, could you let us know what you did to fix it?”!!!
Asking workmates is fine but there may be an ego problem with some, embarrassed to admit defeat could be dangerous. The web is great, ETCG and ScannerDanner cover a lot.When I’m stuck at the dealership I ring toyota technical to which they often reply “we haven’t come across that, could you let us know what you did to fix it?”!!!
Asking workmates is fine but there may be an ego problem with some, embarrassed to admit defeat could be dangerous. The web is great, ETCG and ScannerDanner cover a lot.Great video, arguably the best I’ve seen on ETCG. I really enjoy ETCG1 as a tech for the conversation starters when I get to work!
There is a lot of ways to diagnose a CAT and the method you suggest is the best in my opinion. Good results without having to break out seized O2 sensors to do back pressure testing!Thanks Eric, Merry Christmas
Great video, arguably the best I’ve seen on ETCG. I really enjoy ETCG1 as a tech for the conversation starters when I get to work!
There is a lot of ways to diagnose a CAT and the method you suggest is the best in my opinion. Good results without having to break out seized O2 sensors to do back pressure testing!Thanks Eric, Merry Christmas
I worked at Subaru for four years and that amount of play is normal. It is due the rather unusual way the shafts attach to the differential. The play in the diff carrier is not excessive to me but obviously I haven’t felt it! I have some repair manual images about diff adjustment on Subaru’s if you want them. The original roll pins are better than the replacement due to the ‘zig-zag’ design which stops them getting slack when lateral load applied. A good tip when installing is to put some old vacuum pipe on your drift and attach the roll pin to it, works well.
In my experience on that model Legacy, MAF sensors and O2 sensors caused lots of hesitation issues. MAF in particular, a clean out won’t always work, try replacing and then resetting the ECU learn’t values before you condemn the repair. That’s important. Also if air is being drawn in between the heads and the manifold flanges, that can cause hesitations. We used to file them flat and replace the gaskets.I worked at Subaru for four years and that amount of play is normal. It is due the rather unusual way the shafts attach to the differential. The play in the diff carrier is not excessive to me but obviously I haven’t felt it! I have some repair manual images about diff adjustment on Subaru’s if you want them. The original roll pins are better than the replacement due to the ‘zig-zag’ design which stops them getting slack when lateral load applied. A good tip when installing is to put some old vacuum pipe on your drift and attach the roll pin to it, works well.
In my experience on that model Legacy, MAF sensors and O2 sensors caused lots of hesitation issues. MAF in particular, a clean out won’t always work, try replacing and then resetting the ECU learn’t values before you condemn the repair. That’s important. Also if air is being drawn in between the heads and the manifold flanges, that can cause hesitations. We used to file them flat and replace the gaskets.I agree with your advice on a decent write up. At toyota we select operation codes from techdoc where possible (tech site) and include them in the write up, that ensures we get paid correctly for what we’ve done. With warranty, at toyota at least, you don’t get paid for diagnosis, only the repair. If part of that diagnosis process includes for instance removing a dash to check a connection then include every single step in the write up and you’ll get paid for it. Manufactures will pay for anything that can be justified, so justify it in a good write up.
I agree with your advice on a decent write up. At toyota we select operation codes from techdoc where possible (tech site) and include them in the write up, that ensures we get paid correctly for what we’ve done. With warranty, at toyota at least, you don’t get paid for diagnosis, only the repair. If part of that diagnosis process includes for instance removing a dash to check a connection then include every single step in the write up and you’ll get paid for it. Manufactures will pay for anything that can be justified, so justify it in a good write up.
[quote=”THERMAL” post=41257]What are the 80% of faults you are refering to ?[/quote]
I am referring to common faults these days seem to be more emission related, clogged EGR because low friction rings fitted causing oil consumption, low resistance turbo bearings and seals leaking into intake system, stop start systems eating batteries etc. just my opinion from recent experience
[quote=”THERMAL” post=41257]What are the 80% of faults you are refering to ?[/quote]
I am referring to common faults these days seem to be more emission related, clogged EGR because low friction rings fitted causing oil consumption, low resistance turbo bearings and seals leaking into intake system, stop start systems eating batteries etc. just my opinion from recent experience
Get your quality to a good standard and then you’ll become quicker from there. If you rush you’ll be quick but have comebacks every week which your service manager will not thank you for. If your quality is there and you get crap for not being that quick, you have something to fall back on (“it’s taken me .2 longer but I’m learning and it won’t have to fixed again tomorrow”). It sounds like you have some cobblers at your place so learn from their mistakes. Speed and quality is easily achievable after time. Planning, logic, right tool and I’m sorry to say (as your starting out) experience. Be patient and stick to your morals. Good luck
Get your quality to a good standard and then you’ll become quicker from there. If you rush you’ll be quick but have comebacks every week which your service manager will not thank you for. If your quality is there and you get crap for not being that quick, you have something to fall back on (“it’s taken me .2 longer but I’m learning and it won’t have to fixed again tomorrow”). It sounds like you have some cobblers at your place so learn from their mistakes. Speed and quality is easily achievable after time. Planning, logic, right tool and I’m sorry to say (as your starting out) experience. Be patient and stick to your morals. Good luck
I started out at an independent shop and enjoyed it but options were limited. I did my apprenticeship at a Subaru dealer, warranty times were great but management not so much! Moved to toyota and love it, great product and great guys to work with. You get ruthless techs who will stab you in your back to bill more hours but that’s life. Toyota is a great manufacturer to work for, training is awesome and new tech developed all the time, they don’t really play catch up with other manufacturers tech.
I started out at an independent shop and enjoyed it but options were limited. I did my apprenticeship at a Subaru dealer, warranty times were great but management not so much! Moved to toyota and love it, great product and great guys to work with. You get ruthless techs who will stab you in your back to bill more hours but that’s life. Toyota is a great manufacturer to work for, training is awesome and new tech developed all the time, they don’t really play catch up with other manufacturers tech.
When you spend years educating yourself about complex systems and then back at the dealer you get rewarded by only doing diagnosis jobs, normally warranty then don’t get the repair back which pays because you are doing another DIAG.
Learn how to change oil and align and earn some money, god help anyone who can actually fix cars!Sorry for ranting!