Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”downingjk” post=53315]I have a P0172 code that I can’t seem to figure out. The long term fuel trim always show at least -25 to -27. I have changed both oxygen sensors, MAF, MAP, Fuel rail, Fuel injectors, and spark plugs. The engine light still is on and same code.
When I first start my car in the morning it starts up real sluggish. If I try and put it in drive right away before warming up the car stalls. So I have to wait for the car to warm up before driving.
After all of the parts were changed I also noticed that while driving the car slightly sputters but not consistently.
Could the coil pack, wires, cat converter, or the fuel pump be the issue with the code and slow start up?? Really need help with this one!!!!![/quote]
Wow, you have thrown a lot at this. Your LTFT does look a bit too low, but I am not a Chevy guy…
Don’t think it would be Coil pack or you should get a PO30X code, but may not, so you may look at them (also the condition of the plugs). Cat shouldn’t really effect this (but may be getting effected by this) and fuel pump problems usually manifests with a 171 code.
Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?
Are you using an aftermarket Air filter?
Have you inspected for any blockage in the whole air intake system?
Have you used a vacuum gauage to check your vacuum?
How do the plugs look (any wet?)
Have you disconnected the battery to reset the ECU (to try to re-learn FT’s)?
Sorry, I don’t have the answer, just more questions.
Karl!
I know it sounds stupid, but check your fluid level according to the manufacturers specifications (hot/cold). When there is too much fluid the pressure increases and causes a very hard surge when shifting into gear. It actually can be worse to have too much PS fluid in the tranny than too little.
I know it sounds stupid, but check your fluid level according to the manufacturers specifications (hot/cold). When there is too much fluid the pressure increases and causes a very hard surge when shifting into gear. It actually can be worse to have too much PS fluid in the tranny than too little.
What year is your Corolla?
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is your upstream sensor. If you have a 1zz-fe engine (1.8L), your O2 sensor (or Air/Fuel (AF) Sensor) is located on the back of the engine down from the firewall on the exhaust manifold.
Since it is a pending code, ensure that your battery connections are clean and tight. A computer controlled engine needs a solid source of power and looseness can cause ghost codes…
Another thing, are you getting worse than normal gas milage since you found this pending code? If the O2 sensor is bad, it should throw a CEL and not just be a pending code. This pending code may be nothing at all….
Also, since you can read pending codes, check to ensure that the LT Fuel Trim is between -20 and +20 and that the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor numbers are constantly fluctuating.
Also check the O2 sensors’ wire, make sure it isn’t damaged in some way. If you replace, ONLY replace with DENSO O2 sensors. Toyotas are very sensitive to different brands of O2 sensors. You can get a Denso O2 sensor online for around $80-$90…. At a parts store they will probably be $120+… It is relatively easy to get to with a long extension. There are only two nuts that hold it in position. A deep socket (12mm or 13mm IIRC) on a universal joint makes this job fairly painless.
Trust me, don’t cheap out here…Karl
What year is your Corolla?
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is your upstream sensor. If you have a 1zz-fe engine (1.8L), your O2 sensor (or Air/Fuel (AF) Sensor) is located on the back of the engine down from the firewall on the exhaust manifold.
Since it is a pending code, ensure that your battery connections are clean and tight. A computer controlled engine needs a solid source of power and looseness can cause ghost codes…
Another thing, are you getting worse than normal gas milage since you found this pending code? If the O2 sensor is bad, it should throw a CEL and not just be a pending code. This pending code may be nothing at all….
Also, since you can read pending codes, check to ensure that the LT Fuel Trim is between -20 and +20 and that the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor numbers are constantly fluctuating.
Also check the O2 sensors’ wire, make sure it isn’t damaged in some way. If you replace, ONLY replace with DENSO O2 sensors. Toyotas are very sensitive to different brands of O2 sensors. You can get a Denso O2 sensor online for around $80-$90…. At a parts store they will probably be $120+… It is relatively easy to get to with a long extension. There are only two nuts that hold it in position. A deep socket (12mm or 13mm IIRC) on a universal joint makes this job fairly painless.
Trust me, don’t cheap out here…Karl
Yes, you want to check your battery. A battery may seem OK in other regards, but still be bad/going bad… If you do not have a load tester, the cheapest way is to take it to your local big name parts store and they will test it for free.
Also, make sure your connections are CLEAN and TIGHT! I capitalize this and say will say it over and over again, because sometimes this causes the exact issue. Get a wire brush or terminal cleaner and make sure they look shiny and also ensure the terminals are connected tightly (cannot move easily by hand, preferably not at all).
Your starter could be going as well. If your battery checks out OK then check connections going to the Ground and starter. If they are good, then you may have a bad (or going bad) starter. Luckily, the starter for the ES300 is on top and easy to get to. Next time it fails to start, try hitting the starter on the metal portion with a hammer (dead blow preferred), not enough to hurt the metal, just enough to jar the starter, then try starting it. If it starts, chances are you have a worn starter. Also, you can remove it and get it tested.
Karl!
Yes, you want to check your battery. A battery may seem OK in other regards, but still be bad/going bad… If you do not have a load tester, the cheapest way is to take it to your local big name parts store and they will test it for free.
Also, make sure your connections are CLEAN and TIGHT! I capitalize this and say will say it over and over again, because sometimes this causes the exact issue. Get a wire brush or terminal cleaner and make sure they look shiny and also ensure the terminals are connected tightly (cannot move easily by hand, preferably not at all).
Your starter could be going as well. If your battery checks out OK then check connections going to the Ground and starter. If they are good, then you may have a bad (or going bad) starter. Luckily, the starter for the ES300 is on top and easy to get to. Next time it fails to start, try hitting the starter on the metal portion with a hammer (dead blow preferred), not enough to hurt the metal, just enough to jar the starter, then try starting it. If it starts, chances are you have a worn starter. Also, you can remove it and get it tested.
Karl!
Inspect your High Pressure line. The one that goes from the PS pump routed behind the engine to the front cooling fan. Those are known to have problems with leakage… Also, the power steering switch valve is commonly known to go bad and leak.. It is right in the center of the engine compartment just an inch or two from the firewall, it is about 4 inches down from the intake manifold and is a bit of a pain to remove… Lexus wants $500+ because it has to be sold with the hose. Toyota will sell you the switch valve for around $300. I have repaired this problem before with one from a junkyard for $5.00…. Beware, it is a pain to remove without bending the metal line it is screwed into!!!! It is round and has two vacuum lines going into the top of it….(A 17mm crowsfoot is a must!) Best of luck to you!
Karl!
Inspect your High Pressure line. The one that goes from the PS pump routed behind the engine to the front cooling fan. Those are known to have problems with leakage… Also, the power steering switch valve is commonly known to go bad and leak.. It is right in the center of the engine compartment just an inch or two from the firewall, it is about 4 inches down from the intake manifold and is a bit of a pain to remove… Lexus wants $500+ because it has to be sold with the hose. Toyota will sell you the switch valve for around $300. I have repaired this problem before with one from a junkyard for $5.00…. Beware, it is a pain to remove without bending the metal line it is screwed into!!!! It is round and has two vacuum lines going into the top of it….(A 17mm crowsfoot is a must!) Best of luck to you!
Karl!
I have helped so many people I have lost count. I do believe in Karma, or whatever it may be called. That your deeds, good or bad will eventually catch up to you and effect your life in some way….. I don’t do what I do for a karmic positive score, I do it because I was taught it was the right thing to do.
I remember being taught that showing gratitude and respect cost nothing, but gain you everything. I also remember that people may not be having a good day when you see them… I try to take all that into account…
However, when I do a good deed/random act of kindness and over the course of time; said recipient cannot even muster a “thank you” or “I appreciate what you did” or even say anything, I do form an opinion. That opinion is that this is a person I do not want to know or associate with. The good deed is done, and I hope never to have contact with them again.
In the course of over 40 years, I have been fortunate enough only to remember two particularly smug people (Who also have no thank you-itis) who I have helped who have looked down their noses at me because “I knew how to work with my hands”… One was the wife of a friend who I repaired their toilet because it was stopped up while he was deployed. This woman basically looked at me as hired help and not as a favor…. I fixed the toilet and had nothing to do with her again. The other was a guy I replaced an engine for…. I only charged him $500 for the job because he was down on his luck and money and had a family…. He never said a word of thanks or anything remotely close to it… I did the job way under any rate… And when his engine blew just 30 plus days after I installed it, he called me and wanted it replaced for free (junkyard engine was under warantee)… I told him the “no-thank you” price to replace it again was $1000…. (I wonder if Karma is a reason for his bad luck…hmmmm….)
sorry to rant, but you should always remember those who help you, and let them know it…
just my 2 cents
Karl!
I have helped so many people I have lost count. I do believe in Karma, or whatever it may be called. That your deeds, good or bad will eventually catch up to you and effect your life in some way….. I don’t do what I do for a karmic positive score, I do it because I was taught it was the right thing to do.
I remember being taught that showing gratitude and respect cost nothing, but gain you everything. I also remember that people may not be having a good day when you see them… I try to take all that into account…
However, when I do a good deed/random act of kindness and over the course of time; said recipient cannot even muster a “thank you” or “I appreciate what you did” or even say anything, I do form an opinion. That opinion is that this is a person I do not want to know or associate with. The good deed is done, and I hope never to have contact with them again.
In the course of over 40 years, I have been fortunate enough only to remember two particularly smug people (Who also have no thank you-itis) who I have helped who have looked down their noses at me because “I knew how to work with my hands”… One was the wife of a friend who I repaired their toilet because it was stopped up while he was deployed. This woman basically looked at me as hired help and not as a favor…. I fixed the toilet and had nothing to do with her again. The other was a guy I replaced an engine for…. I only charged him $500 for the job because he was down on his luck and money and had a family…. He never said a word of thanks or anything remotely close to it… I did the job way under any rate… And when his engine blew just 30 plus days after I installed it, he called me and wanted it replaced for free (junkyard engine was under warantee)… I told him the “no-thank you” price to replace it again was $1000…. (I wonder if Karma is a reason for his bad luck…hmmmm….)
sorry to rant, but you should always remember those who help you, and let them know it…
just my 2 cents
Karl!
Punch it through… Don’t quit now since you are this deep. Put another cheap 3/8 socket extension on the male end of the extension and have your buddy wiggle/turn the shaft/cup and pull on it while you whack the #$## out of it… If the punch is not contacting the CV shaft and has bent against the side of the acorn, then tap it a bit lighter and see if you can bend/break the punch end (the weakest point of both the punch and extension, but you don’t want the punch end to break). However if the punch end breaks, then extract the remnants that way. If it bends enough, use vice grips and a hammer to pull it out….If the punch end breaks, fish it out…and never use that small a punch end to try to push out a CV shaft again…
If you are uncomfortable with doing the above mentioned, then get underneath the car with a pry bar and keep working on pushing that stuck axle shaft out… It will pop eventually… Just keep turning the shaft end and wiggle/jiggle and pop/whack the end of the pry bar… it will eventually come lose….
BTW…. I never recommend punching a CV shaft through the working parts….
Karl!
Punch it through… Don’t quit now since you are this deep. Put another cheap 3/8 socket extension on the male end of the extension and have your buddy wiggle/turn the shaft/cup and pull on it while you whack the #$## out of it… If the punch is not contacting the CV shaft and has bent against the side of the acorn, then tap it a bit lighter and see if you can bend/break the punch end (the weakest point of both the punch and extension, but you don’t want the punch end to break). However if the punch end breaks, then extract the remnants that way. If it bends enough, use vice grips and a hammer to pull it out….If the punch end breaks, fish it out…and never use that small a punch end to try to push out a CV shaft again…
If you are uncomfortable with doing the above mentioned, then get underneath the car with a pry bar and keep working on pushing that stuck axle shaft out… It will pop eventually… Just keep turning the shaft end and wiggle/jiggle and pop/whack the end of the pry bar… it will eventually come lose….
BTW…. I never recommend punching a CV shaft through the working parts….
Karl!