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August 27, 2019 at 3:47 pm in reply to: no crank in park;crank in neutral; starter relay control side key on 3.44 v #894378
I never sent you any ad or anything. Not sure if you got spammed, but I did not do anything…
In short.. I have no idea what you are talking about.
Karl
May want to check fuel pressure.
-Karl
See if the pump is running when the car is initially turned on. When the key is turned you should hear the pump run 3-5 seconds. If you can’t hear from outside, get under the car by the fuel tank and have someone pump the key. If you have even reasonable hearing, you should hear the fuel tank run.
If it is running check for a crank signal, the car will not run without the crank signal telling the computer it is running and therefore turn on the fuel pump.
This is a failsafe to ensure if a car was in an accident, the fuel pump wouldn’t continue to run if the engine were not running.
Good luck
-Karl
Find out where the water is coming from.
Have someone with a hose spray the car while you are in it and look for the source…
Good luck
-Karl
First, the clutch has a fail safe that will not activate until it has a certain pressure built up. If you have nothing in the system, the Clutch WILL NOT engage. When you add refrigerant after roughly 60% to 70% of the required amount, you will see it start to kick on.
You should have gotten a reading around 22-25 inches of mercury (the gauge below zero) This should have held for at least 30 minutes after you have turned off the vacuum pump. You don’t pull vacuum then just turn it off and disconnect it. You have to watch it for several minutes after you shut the pump off. The longer the better, I go with 30 minutes.
Your leak could be in the schrader valves or in the seal of the Compressor. Those are the most likely locations.
Good luck
-Karl
Some do, some don’t.
Tacoma
1995-2017 4-Cylinder Chain
1995-2004 V6 Belt
2005-2017 V6 ChainIf your oil pressure is that low, and you hear a bottom end rattle it sounds like you have or are close to spinning a bearing. Will need at least a lower end rebuild.
Good luck.
-Karl
May want to try a noid light on those fuel injector connectors. See how well they are working…
Also, 130 is pretty low. I have seen engines that run that low, but I would rather see them 150+ at worst.
-Karl
If you have tried everything, it may be time for a compression test of all the cylinders to check the mechanical condition.
Also, Fuel delivery issues can cause misfires, be it bad/grounded fuel injectors, or a weak pump.
Good luck
-Karl
Check the headlight Relay marked “HEAD” in the fuse box. Also, I believe the DRL relay is behind the glove box, but kinda fuzzy about that, so I am not 100% on that.
Good luck
-Karl
WOW… That looks like it could have been on the Titanic.
If you seriously cannot fit it through there, you can go with tubing…. Unlike brake lines which need a 900 to 1000 PSI, a fuel line should never need more than 80-90 PSI depending on the application….
Since this is not ever going to be a “Show car” I would consider replacing with flexible rubber/protective tubing and ensure that it does not rub, or make friction/hot contact with anything….
-Karl
Was it a flood vehicle? If a Jersey vehicle, could have salt from ocean, ocean water… LOL… Suppose it don’t matter now… Did you get it from a Soprano associate??? 🙂 🙂
-Karl
Take a pic for us and that may help…
-Karl
Glad to hear you got the factory lines… That will make life easier for you…. Best if you lift the vehicle as high as you can to trace them… I would bet (But not 100%) that you can get these in place without too much pain… may take a little while, but don’t be afraid to bend them a little… just watch kinking them…
Try to fish the end through before attaching them if things are in the way…. it should be possible…
You must live in a really salty area!!
Good luck
-Karl
While I have not worked on this particular vehicle I would say that most likely no trans removal is necessary, however there may be brackets on the firewall or close to trans that could require a lift to make them accessible in a decent manner.
BTW… I have replaced plenty of brake lines on GMC’s and always get the factory replacements, they may need bending a bit, but they can be worked into place without moving to much.
Just curious, why are you replacing this line? Seems very unusual..
-Karl
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