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[quote=”SludgeMan” post=40052]Typical of the exhaust nuts Toyota uses, they don’t like to go back on, they are considered one time use for a reason. Dumb dumb design. Maxlife is spec’d for Toyota WS, it’s a good fluid, although there are better out there if you’re willing to pay for them. Personally if that was my vehicle I would put in Royal Purple ATF, it’s not cheap but considering the pain in the neck job it is to swap out the fluid, may as well spend the extra cash. It’s about $10-12/quart BTW.
What is the total capacity of the transmission? A full flush would be better, done by accessing the tranny cooler lines, although I don’t know exactly how one would go about making sure the transmission is being filled with fluid as the old stuff is being pumped out. I always use the dipstick tube for that, without out it could be an issue.
Don’t ask me why auto makers are removing dipsticks, it makes no sense to me except they are trying to prevent the average guy from doing his own maintenance.[/quote]
I probably would not recommend doing a flush at 150k miles.
There is a procedure. You prefill it, like you did. Then after that you start the car and depending on if you have the right scan tool or not you have to watch the temp gauge of the transmission fluid. There is a way to put the car into inspection mode or however its called to where when the trans fluid temp reaches the right temp, some of the dash lights will start blinking. When the temp is right, you take out the other plug that is on that trans pan and let it “overflow” until it trickles, then you know that the fluid is at the right level.
There is a procedure. You prefill it, like you did. Then after that you start the car and depending on if you have the right scan tool or not you have to watch the temp gauge of the transmission fluid. There is a way to put the car into inspection mode or however its called to where when the trans fluid temp reaches the right temp, some of the dash lights will start blinking. When the temp is right, you take out the other plug that is on that trans pan and let it “overflow” until it trickles, then you know that the fluid is at the right level.
We at the dealership usually recommend 4×4 service (front, rear diff and transfer case) at 60k miles. The trans fluid is world standard i believe, if it is, we recommend those at 100k miles.
Correction: Manual trans ususally same as diff service, 60k miles. Unless you;re doing towing or heavy duty driving and such, then its more like 30k miles.We at the dealership usually recommend 4×4 service (front, rear diff and transfer case) at 60k miles. The trans fluid is world standard i believe, if it is, we recommend those at 100k miles.
Correction: Manual trans ususally same as diff service, 60k miles. Unless you;re doing towing or heavy duty driving and such, then its more like 30k miles.If your dipstick cap is red, and the vehicle takes dex 4 fluid, I would recommend changing it every 60k or so if not sooner(ive seen trans fluid go dark quick, around 40k sometimes. It’s a simple drain and refill. The fluid isn’t anywhere close as expensive as the World Standard. The siennas don’t come with wold standard until they put that bigger 3.5L engine in them. So if you have the 3.3 3mz-fe motor, then you should be equipped with dex 4 fluid. Oh, and you might want to invest in a new washer for the drain plug, i’ve seen almost every car that didn’t get their washer replaced leak. They are fairly cheap as well.
If your dipstick cap is red, and the vehicle takes dex 4 fluid, I would recommend changing it every 60k or so if not sooner(ive seen trans fluid go dark quick, around 40k sometimes. It’s a simple drain and refill. The fluid isn’t anywhere close as expensive as the World Standard. The siennas don’t come with wold standard until they put that bigger 3.5L engine in them. So if you have the 3.3 3mz-fe motor, then you should be equipped with dex 4 fluid. Oh, and you might want to invest in a new washer for the drain plug, i’ve seen almost every car that didn’t get their washer replaced leak. They are fairly cheap as well.
[quote=”blacK20″ post=39098]We technically use a computer dispatch system, but really it’s only there to get rid of hard copy documentation. A tower operator still gives out the work according to capabilities and certifications which imo is bogus. What ends up happening are techs play the stupid game and in return gets all the easy money making jobs. Then you are left with the talented guys stuck with all the crap. With a dealership operation, at the end of the day all your service manager sees are numbers. If they can increase efficiency of the shop by dispatching work through strengths of each technician, they will do so just to squeeze another 5 hours per day through the shop. Having said that, I usually have my work cut out for me as I’m the lead driveability guy and don’t have to fight for work much.
The team thing that Eric mentioned is interesting. Haven’t ever heard of a system like that before. I would think that you’d really need to be able to trust your teammates and can count on them to produce.[/quote]
I have a similar system at my work. Each 3 techs get 1 computer and thats how we locate. But we alsoo have the service manager dispatching. Its suppose to be fair and equal according to the manager, but for some reason there are 4-5 techs out of 50 in the shop that consistantly book 70+ hours each week, and others struggle to hit guarantee in the slower weeks. When we ask the manager, well they say they are “hustlers” and thehy get the work done quickly. yet everytime I walk past them they are knocking out juice work, timing belts, brakes etc. Hardly ever do I see them get stuck with the crappy warrantee work. Thats the kind of stuff that makes me second guess myself about staying there for extended time. It is a union shop so it would be nice, but the stuff that goes on “behind closed doors” makes my hairs stand up sometimes.
[quote=”blacK20″ post=39098]We technically use a computer dispatch system, but really it’s only there to get rid of hard copy documentation. A tower operator still gives out the work according to capabilities and certifications which imo is bogus. What ends up happening are techs play the stupid game and in return gets all the easy money making jobs. Then you are left with the talented guys stuck with all the crap. With a dealership operation, at the end of the day all your service manager sees are numbers. If they can increase efficiency of the shop by dispatching work through strengths of each technician, they will do so just to squeeze another 5 hours per day through the shop. Having said that, I usually have my work cut out for me as I’m the lead driveability guy and don’t have to fight for work much.
The team thing that Eric mentioned is interesting. Haven’t ever heard of a system like that before. I would think that you’d really need to be able to trust your teammates and can count on them to produce.[/quote]
I have a similar system at my work. Each 3 techs get 1 computer and thats how we locate. But we alsoo have the service manager dispatching. Its suppose to be fair and equal according to the manager, but for some reason there are 4-5 techs out of 50 in the shop that consistantly book 70+ hours each week, and others struggle to hit guarantee in the slower weeks. When we ask the manager, well they say they are “hustlers” and thehy get the work done quickly. yet everytime I walk past them they are knocking out juice work, timing belts, brakes etc. Hardly ever do I see them get stuck with the crappy warrantee work. Thats the kind of stuff that makes me second guess myself about staying there for extended time. It is a union shop so it would be nice, but the stuff that goes on “behind closed doors” makes my hairs stand up sometimes.
I recently had found a condom stashed on top of a cabin filter. I guess good place to hide, noone really looks in there. Filter was dirty so I recommended it, wonder if the customer thought of it when he saw the recommendations… So far thats all I can think of as of now.
[quote=”roflo619″ post=37288]I’m not a technician, but I need the advice of current/former working techs. Please move if needed.
What types of study guides/test preps have you guys used that you feel helped you? It can be books, online website, or software.
Thanks![/quote]
if youre not a tech why take em? are you thinking about getting into the business?
brakes isn’t too bad. as long as you work on em and study it up from the study guide, you should be ok. I use motor age study guides and they seem to get me through with each test so far i’ve taken i passed. Also i took some testes while i was still in school and the information was fresh, so that and the books that they give us for the classes helped me out too.
I still stand by my theory. The fuel pump must have a few burnt up contact points. Once in a while it will stop on those bad contacts and when it wants to crank over again, its stuck. It works like a starter motor. Next time it doesnt want to start, hit the gas tank, if it helps it, its the fuel pump.
I still stand by my theory. The fuel pump must have a few burnt up contact points. Once in a while it will stop on those bad contacts and when it wants to crank over again, its stuck. It works like a starter motor. Next time it doesnt want to start, hit the gas tank, if it helps it, its the fuel pump.
another idea, im not sure how similar the hybrid systems are between the insight and the prius, but prius has a seperate hot tank mounted in the front fender that stores hot coolant for cold starts. Depending on how the insight hybrid system operates, it could be that when the engine stops running and when the hybrid battery is running the drivetrain, there isnt much coolant flow therefore it cools of in the heater core. Just a thought throwing it out there.