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Quoted From Rodger T:
I’ll try and get us started here.
When you say it randomly won’t turn all the way over… any patterns at all? i.e. after sitting all night, after warmed up, etc. How often? Most of the time, every other time, once or twice a week?
Just after I worked on it it will not turn over fully. cranks, etc. as normal. Been working on it for 4 days, has sat for a month now till I could have the time to put on the new parts it needed.
We have taken a closer look at it and realized the timing seems off..gonna try adjusting that tomorrow. Also have another guy coming to look at it to get 3 heads together on the whole process.
Being used to working on classic American cars the whole foreign thing .just throws us..lol
se..I beleive in making everything easy as possible.. my suggestion is to use a jack stand but don’t put the weight on it..mainly there just to keep it stable and flush onto the nut itself and keeps it from going sideways an such..kinda like a point of leverage..then just simply slip a pipe over the handle of your wrench for a little extra leverage..normaly seems to work for me..you might try getting some silicone based lubricant aswell and coat it pretty good..possibly some carb. cleaner if the nut is rusted in. Will normally clear out the debris from the threads..just don’t get any on your hands..will hurt a little..lol
Anyway..just a few suggestions for yah to try out 😛
Hope it helped a little,
Jay[b]Ty eric, I will check it out, if it’s none of those I know a few guys I can call on if it gets too in depth.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:[/b]
I really wish they hadn’t done that, those are great carbs and hold up really well over time. The most common problem with those is a leaking base gasket as it causes a vacuum leak which can cause stalling. Since your running rich you might want to check the float level by looking at the site glass on the side of the carb to see if the fuel is between the 2 marks, if it’s not you MIGHT be able to adjust it but be careful when you move the float screw it often ruins the ‘o’ ring and starts to leak. I don’t think your going to get anywhere adjusting the throttle, in fact you may make things worse.
To be honest if you don’t understand it’s inner workings you might make things worse so that makes 2 choices for you, find someone that knows what they are doing to fix the carb or replace it with a known good one.
BTW If it were an LXi it would be fuel injected, that’s what the ‘i’ stands for.
Thats what I’m thinking..I was just starting out and had just gotten the car when I replaced the transmission and motor and I didn’t disconnect anything but the battery. I could have actually burnt the switch when hooking it all back up. The local honda dealer is wanting $60 and I have to buy the entire switch box itself. Might end up hitting the junk yards and pulling a few considering they will charge me just a couple of bucks for them. Just hate wasting money on something when i’m not sure it’s the problem. Run into that a few times in the past and ended up with parts sitting around i’ll probly never use..lol
[b]Excellent! I was hoping it would be something easy like that…I will go out and check it now!
Ty so much eric, you’ve been an awesome help.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:[/b]
I’m old enough to answer this one. There was a TSB on the wiring harness under the headlights themselves that would break over time. Check the harness under the headlight, your going to have to remove the headlight to get to it and check the wires in the harness, I bet your going to find some broken wires there. There was a ‘kit’ that we installed for the repair but if you repair the wires and make them slightly longer you should be fine.