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Quoted From 619DioFan:
If I have read your post right is says that the car was running ok prior to performing work on it. after the work it will not start ( cranks over ok but does not fire up? ) plugs were changed, ( was the distributor position disturbed during the recent repairs ? ) if it ran before and the distributor was not loosened nor disturbed then chances are it isn’t timing. I would double check the cap and rotor. make sure they are ok. you said you did plugs… did it fire up after the plug replacement ? if it didnt fire after the plug job I would check them as well. next would be fuel pressure , make sure that is good. keep us posted .
Lol..yea..I will admit I did put plugs in originally as is straight out of the box. Was informed that I needed to gap them..I did Pull them out and do so with recommended OEM standards of 38. The cap and rotor seems fine as well. Have a brand new of both on there from prior part replacement (about 6 months ago) don’t know what was wrong with it, took it in for a routine oil change (didn’t want to put up with having to do it) and was recommended I let them change it and it ran fine after installation.
And no, did all the work on it all at once before putting it back together so I didn’t test it straight after putting in the new plugs.
Though this fuel pressure, I might actually check it. Seems I’m getting this one from a lot of people.
se..I beleive in making everything easy as possible.. my suggestion is to use a jack stand but don’t put the weight on it..mainly there just to keep it stable and flush onto the nut itself and keeps it from going sideways an such..kinda like a point of leverage..then just simply slip a pipe over the handle of your wrench for a little extra leverage..normaly seems to work for me..you might try getting some silicone based lubricant aswell and coat it pretty good..possibly some carb. cleaner if the nut is rusted in. Will normally clear out the debris from the threads..just don’t get any on your hands..will hurt a little..lol
Anyway..just a few suggestions for yah to try out 😛
Hope it helped a little,
Jay[b]Ty eric, I will check it out, if it’s none of those I know a few guys I can call on if it gets too in depth.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:[/b]
I really wish they hadn’t done that, those are great carbs and hold up really well over time. The most common problem with those is a leaking base gasket as it causes a vacuum leak which can cause stalling. Since your running rich you might want to check the float level by looking at the site glass on the side of the carb to see if the fuel is between the 2 marks, if it’s not you MIGHT be able to adjust it but be careful when you move the float screw it often ruins the ‘o’ ring and starts to leak. I don’t think your going to get anywhere adjusting the throttle, in fact you may make things worse.
To be honest if you don’t understand it’s inner workings you might make things worse so that makes 2 choices for you, find someone that knows what they are doing to fix the carb or replace it with a known good one.
BTW If it were an LXi it would be fuel injected, that’s what the ‘i’ stands for.
Thats what I’m thinking..I was just starting out and had just gotten the car when I replaced the transmission and motor and I didn’t disconnect anything but the battery. I could have actually burnt the switch when hooking it all back up. The local honda dealer is wanting $60 and I have to buy the entire switch box itself. Might end up hitting the junk yards and pulling a few considering they will charge me just a couple of bucks for them. Just hate wasting money on something when i’m not sure it’s the problem. Run into that a few times in the past and ended up with parts sitting around i’ll probly never use..lol
[b]Excellent! I was hoping it would be something easy like that…I will go out and check it now!
Ty so much eric, you’ve been an awesome help.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:[/b]
I’m old enough to answer this one. There was a TSB on the wiring harness under the headlights themselves that would break over time. Check the harness under the headlight, your going to have to remove the headlight to get to it and check the wires in the harness, I bet your going to find some broken wires there. There was a ‘kit’ that we installed for the repair but if you repair the wires and make them slightly longer you should be fine.