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alright, update! just put on the brand new caliper and saw in the end of the line some old brake fluid gunk so i flushed the system and the brakes have improved 10Xs, sadly while replacing that I unplugged the battery so codes are null and voided off now..lol..will have to drive around for a bit and see if the check engine light comes back, but the shaking has stopped and my acceleration has gotten back to where it should be.
As far as the front end I replaced all the tie rods and ball joints i replaced those myself when i first got the truck, as the entire system was in very poor shape and almost to the point of total failure. The guy that had this truck previous to me actually had the driver’s side tie rod wrapped in duct tape! Was deffo a first for me..LOL
the brake light is still solid, I’m figuring it as the sensor has gone out. Pretty common for these trucks for those to fail. and not sure if this make does or not to be honest.
well, as far as the light just burning I think I can deal with it considering it runs strong even with over 288k miles on it. lol
well, i popped the wheel off and indeed the caliper is stuck again and it has eaten off the entire brake pads (2nd time I have had to replace the pads on the driver’s side) been bleeding them using a “1 man brake bleed kit” will check the codes here in a little bit. Looks like might be an all nighter on it..lol. gotta have it going by the 18th cause i’m not gonna miss my vacation even if i end up having to rent a car.
Don’t use vinegar..it will only strip the wax off and make the salt more powerful..vinigar is an acid..use baking soda to neutralize the salt as it is is a non-corrosive and also non-harmful alkaline with the added benefit of order killer..just mix it with the soap and water and spray it off..i would also suggest something high powered as already suggested and make sure you go over the wheel wells and all the cracks and crannies and underbody of the car as it tends to accumulate the worst in there…I would also suggest to not use a touchless car wash as those are more or less a scam and don’t really wash anything. more or less just in grain things a bit better into the paint….after your done make sure to go back over everything and wipe it all down and shine a bright flashlight onto all the sections of your car and look for white film BEFORE you even think about waxing it as this will trap everything under it and leave it to destroy your paint.
P.s. Don’t mix wax with the stuff your washing your car with. #1 it gets all on the glass and on the seals and Ect. (Thats what causes that weird smog like scum on windshields you can never seem to scrub off) cause that’s what the gas station touch-less car washes do is mix the wax into the soap so it just sprays a coat onto everything and traps anything it doesn’t clean under the wax coat including soap and dirt and bug guts..and what ever is there…lol
I have looked at that and I believe one of my problems is in the fact that when it’s idling the choke plate is shut completely from what I could tell. I can manually hold the throttle on the side and open the butterfly a bit and it seems to idle fine..and yes..i know..idk what Chevy was thinking when they decided to throw a V6 into a V8 frame..Will be replacing it with a 454 big block when I can find one..lol..but for now gotta fix this problem..
P.S. makes more sense..I was trying to find the idle screws and they are non-existant..(used to working with carbs. not Fuel Injected..I’m old School) lol
and also there is absolutely no vacuum system on the truck at all. That was one of the first things that popped into my mind.
When I open the hood I do hear what sounds like a bad vacuum leak..I suppose my knowledge on this stuff is still in the process of it..I will check it out and see if I can find out where the noise is coming from. you might be right as I have not checked the EGR valve. Was not meaning to sound like I was “calling you out” or anything..I am writing all of this down on the things to check tomorrow when the rain lets up lol
oh noo! I don’t use that method..Caught another truck of mine on fire in the past..did have an extinguisher handy thankfully. but I manually go over it nowadays..lol
Just wanted to let you know eric and everyone else that helped out that I found the problem. I had 2 6″ vacuum lines that had cracked and rotted with age. Was a 97 cent fix and now it runs perfectly.
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that helped out.
Got a couple of extra feet just in case I have this problem in the future I won’t have to run back to the part store.
Went ahead and cleaned the engine and everything while I was at it and got everything shiny new under the hood. Looks and runs amazing finally.
Took A lot of work but with the help of everyone here I was able to puzzle it all out.
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
Being that this is a carbed engine, i would think it has a mechanical fuel pump and not a electric one right?
If it is a mechanical one a fuel pressure tester is pretty cheap for that(I bought my lower pressure fuel tester for like $20 bucks).
Sears has them and harbor freight has a pretty nice set for pretty cheap.Awesome! Gotta wait for the guys to get off work till we can go out there and take a peek and probe at it today..might be able to borrow one instead of having to buy it as well (with any hope) But it’s nice to know that if I have to get one I’m not looking at a high cost considering Harbor Freight is just around the corner and so is sears. Would not have even thought to look at H.F. for one. (buy most of my tools there already)
And yes, it is a mechanical pump I do believe, To be certain I’ll have to pull out my handy little Service Manual though.
Quoted From yarddog1950:
When you say it has “stopped turning all the way over”, what do you mean? When you engage the starter, do you hear the starter turning the crankshaft less than one full turn, or does the starter turn the crankshaft again and again and the engine does not start?
It just turns constantly but never fully fires, We think we have diagnosed the problem, Timing belt is very loose and skipping.
Pain to replace from the looks of it too, belt runs right next to an engine mount and such..so..I’m gonna be having some FUN the next few days! LOL
I would also recommend looking at your timing belt and seeing if it’s loose and such of the nature, I have a 1989 Honda accord that was doing the same. Seems that we found that to be the problem on mine.
Quoted From Rodger T:
I’ll try and get us started here.
When you say it randomly won’t turn all the way over… any patterns at all? i.e. after sitting all night, after warmed up, etc. How often? Most of the time, every other time, once or twice a week?
Just after I worked on it it will not turn over fully. cranks, etc. as normal. Been working on it for 4 days, has sat for a month now till I could have the time to put on the new parts it needed.
We have taken a closer look at it and realized the timing seems off..gonna try adjusting that tomorrow. Also have another guy coming to look at it to get 3 heads together on the whole process.
Being used to working on classic American cars the whole foreign thing .just throws us..lol
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
“getting fuel” Did you use a fuel pressure tester?
Just cause it’s getting fuel to the engine does not mean it has enough pressure.
Did you check out the cap and rotor yet?
Is the rotor spinning freely when the engine is cranked over?Don’t have a fuel Pressure tester, but yes to all the other above, not sure the fuel actually maintains pressure, it’s a carb’d engine. though. I’m still just a shade tree mechanic as far as these things go.