Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I have a good one. I was working in a tire and battery shop. Around 20 minutes before close somebody comes in with a bad battery. No prob, pop one in and call it a night. Needless to say, the battery hold-down was severely corroded and didn’t wanna budge. So everybody jumped on it so we could all get out of there on time. One guy put some penetration lube on it, that didn’t work. Then the other guy uses brake cleaner to clean of the lube. Then another guy brakes out the torch to heat up the bolt. It was going fine until a red hot piece of rust fell to the ground and caught the brake cleaner on fire. WOOSH. Remember the movie Backdraft? That’s what it looked like. I ran one way to get a fire extinguisher and another guy ran the other way to get one. We met at the middle and doused the car with that powder stuff. I thought I was literally going to suffocate.
We put out the fire, nothing burned except the brake cleaner. The lady that owned the car was in the waiting room which has a window into the shop and the battery bay is right in front of the window. She freaks out screaming bloody freaking murder. I’m trying to calm her down. She is inconsolable. Now get this one, she calls the cops on us! So we’re washing off all the fire extinguisher stuff off of the car, basically gave her a free car wash and engine bay wash. I’m still trying to calm her down. The car actually looked better than when it arrived. Then the cop shows up. He asks her what happened. She said we lit her car on fire. Then he asked us if we did it on purpose. I said of course not. He looked at the lady with a scowl on his face and said it wasn’t a police matter. The cop sounded like he was pissed because she was wasting his time. Inside I was like, Yeah right on, bitch.
Finally, we ended up giving her the battery for free and a 50 dollar gift card. We were supposed to close at ten but I didn’t end up getting out until like midnight because I had to count out the money and run the end of day reports. That was a crazy night!!!Did you check the battery? First thing you wanna do is make sure the battery is fully charged and working properly. Check the battery cables and make sure they are free of corrosion and tight. Before you go into wiring, start with the simple stuff.
For the heater, start with checking the coolant level. (Don’t open the radiaator cap unless the car is completely cool.) It could be air in the coolant system, a clogged heater core, clogged heater lines, a leak in or around the heater core,( check underneath the dash for leaks or a sweet antifreeze smell). For the belt squeaking, it could be a worn out belt most likely, check to see how tight the belt is and if it is cracked or frayed. Also if it is a serpentine belt, check to see if the belt tensioner is operaration properly,(it’s not frozen and has full range of motion). I’m at a loss for the vibrating problem. Altough, I would check the rack and pinion bushings than connect it to the frame.
P.S. you should never hold the steering will all the way to the end of its motion for more than a few seconds, it can damage the pump.Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the replies. Especially Eric, I know you are wicked busy and it really shows dedication to your subscribers that you take the time to answer most of the questions and still run your site. By the way, It’s a ’98 Nissan Sentra w/ a 1.6L DOHC. I live in New England and it was a Tennessee car, so I’m thinking maybe the stat didn’t get a work out like it does up here. I checked the coolant and it’s pretty full. It has the orange coolant. What is the name of that coolant? I’m gonna get it up to temp with the cap off and see it that fixes the problem. Like I said before, the thermostat is in a difficult location, so that would be me last option. I’ll keep y’all posted.
I know the drain back valve is supposed to hold the oil but eventually the oil will bleed out of the oil clearances. This is all hypothetical but I think it would be a good idea for my situation because some days I don’t drive my vehicle for a day or two straight. The preluber puts pressure into the system before it starts.
I’m also using a pair of non-slip sneakers I had while working in the food service industry. They are comfortable, but they don’t have a steel toe. They hold up pretty well as I was on my feet and walking around 99 percent of the time. I just don’t know if they’re up to automotive work.
We just went over this in class. He taught it a little differently. You have to wait until all the modules are in “sleep mode” like it says, but before you do this disable the driver door switch so it doesn’t turn on. Then wire you DVOM in series with the battery. That is, take the positive cable off and connect one end of the meter to the cable and the other to the positive terminal of the battery. Set the meter to milliamps. When the car is in sleep mode, the draw should be less than 50 milliamps. If not, go to the fuse box and start pulling fuses. When you pull them don’t put them back in, it may wake up the modules. Just make a note of where they go or lay them out in order. Keep and I on the meter and when the amps drop below the limit you know what circuit is causing the excessive draw.
I have to agree with WDHewson. If you can get a torch on a bolt or nut, It’s the quicket and best way to loosen a frozen fastener. Just be safe and remember you don’t need a roaring flame for most of the jobs. The acetylene torch can be your best friend, or your worst enemy depending on how you treat it.
This is a fraud. HHO is basically creating hydrogen gas by running electricity through water (electrolysis). Supposedly you can then use the hydrogen to power your car. Unfortunately the amount of power (electricity) you put in far exceeds the energy than you get out of burning the hydrogen gas. This is the Second Law of Thermodynamics. Energy has to be conserved, energy cannot be created nor destroyed, only converted from one form to another. When you convert energy from one form to another you lose efficiency. Yada yada yada, to sum it up it doesn’t work. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy_conversion_efficiency
Now, if you’re talking about a Hydrogen fuel cell that’s a whole different story. Technology is too expensive to retrofit to a car. Running hydrogen to use in an internal combustion engine is impactical, I think because where would you get it and how much would it cost. If you’re up to it, I think the best route to go is an LPG conversion. It’s practical, doesn’t cost that much (relatively), and you can find propane everywhere. To really take advantage of the propane though you should incread the compression ration which isn’t exactly easy without rebuilding the engine.I think LPG get lower gas mileage but it works out to be cheaper in the long run. LPG is also a lot cleaner for the engine and you can extend your oil change intervals.
Just keep your nose clean and don’t do anything that would get you pulled over. I’m not proud of it, but I drove without insurance way back when for about a year. I mostly drove it to work and I purposely did not drive it only unless absolutley necessary. If I was going out for fun I would get a ride or just stay home. It’s certainly a gamble you take, but when you have to work and you don’t have enough money to pay the rent and the insurance, guess what isn’t gettin’ paid. And I was definitely not gonna lose my job just cause I had no insurance. Then I would be homeless too. So I understand your predicament.
And jacobnbr1? is totally right. When you get ?license, you enter into a contract with the state. You give up some of your rights for the privilege of driving. This is why they can give you a breathalyzer and search your car with reasonable suspicion. So driving is a privilege and not a right. You have to play by their rules and if you don’t like it that’s fine, just hand over your license and you don’t have to play their game. That’s why if you refuse a breathalyzer in most states you automatically get your license suspended. Talk about guilty before proven innocent. But this has been challenge all the way to the Supreme Court, so whatcha gonna do? I guess ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
This is a fraud. HHO is basically creating hydrogen gas by running electricity through water (electrolysis). Supposedly you can then use the hydrogen to power your car. Unfortunately the amount of power (electricity) you put in far exceeds the energy than you get out of burning the hydrogen gas. This is the Second Law of Thermodynamics. Energy has to be conserved, energy cannot be created nor destroyed, only converted from one form to another. When you convert energy from one form to another you lose efficiency. Yada yada yada, to sum it up it doesn’t work. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy_conversion_efficiency
Now, if you’re talking about a Hydrogen fuel cell that’s a whole different story. Technology is too expensive to retrofit to a car. Running hydrogen to use in an internal combustion engine is impactical, I think because where would you get it and how much would it cost. If you’re up to it, I think the best route to go is an LPG conversion. It’s practical, doesn’t cost that much (relatively), and you can find propane everywhere. To really take advantage of the propane though you should incread the compression ration which isn’t exactly easy without rebuilding the engine.I think LPG get lower gas mileage but it works out to be cheaper in the long run. LPG is also a lot cleaner for the engine and you can extend your oil change intervals.