Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I’m looking forward to seeing how this comes out. I know rattle bombs aren’t the most ideal way to paint a car, but if you are careful with them, I bet you can get a decent enough finish. I read a thread on a Honda forum where a young guy painted his car black with auto paint, and rollers. All I had to judge by were pictures on the internet, but from what I saw, it was at least a decent 20 foot car, and he kept his cost pretty low.
I’m looking forward to seeing how this comes out. I know rattle bombs aren’t the most ideal way to paint a car, but if you are careful with them, I bet you can get a decent enough finish. I read a thread on a Honda forum where a young guy painted his car black with auto paint, and rollers. All I had to judge by were pictures on the internet, but from what I saw, it was at least a decent 20 foot car, and he kept his cost pretty low.
Awesome information. I did the Honda ROH conversion about 3 years ago with a bearing / hub setup that I got from TAS auto. At the time, I was pulling the suspension apart to get the transmission out for a clutch job, and doing lower ball joints at the same time, so I went ahead and took the entire knuckle off the car, then replaced the bearing bolts with longer grade 8’s and pounded the hell out of them with the BFH to get the bearing / hub assembly off the car. I had no need to bother getting the bearing off the hub, since the conversion replaces the stock Accord hub with an Acura TL hub.
However, 3 years later, and 45k miles, and those TAS bearings are howling up a storm, so now I have to do that job again, and this time I have no need to tear things apart, so I was looking for an easy way to get it done. My first thought was one of those on the car presses they sell at Harbor Freight, but in order to use that, the CV shaft will need to be completely out of the way, which means separating the lower ball joints.
I had been wondering if I could sneak a slide hammer up in there just by pushing the CV shaft back as far as it will go, and just beat on it until it comes out. I hadn’t even thought about leaving the bearing bolted in at first, and pulling the hub that way. I suppose if I get the Harbor freight kit, pull the hub first, then the bearing, I could then use the kit to press the new bearing on, and I won’t have to mess around going to a shop at all.
Awesome information. I did the Honda ROH conversion about 3 years ago with a bearing / hub setup that I got from TAS auto. At the time, I was pulling the suspension apart to get the transmission out for a clutch job, and doing lower ball joints at the same time, so I went ahead and took the entire knuckle off the car, then replaced the bearing bolts with longer grade 8’s and pounded the hell out of them with the BFH to get the bearing / hub assembly off the car. I had no need to bother getting the bearing off the hub, since the conversion replaces the stock Accord hub with an Acura TL hub.
However, 3 years later, and 45k miles, and those TAS bearings are howling up a storm, so now I have to do that job again, and this time I have no need to tear things apart, so I was looking for an easy way to get it done. My first thought was one of those on the car presses they sell at Harbor Freight, but in order to use that, the CV shaft will need to be completely out of the way, which means separating the lower ball joints.
I had been wondering if I could sneak a slide hammer up in there just by pushing the CV shaft back as far as it will go, and just beat on it until it comes out. I hadn’t even thought about leaving the bearing bolted in at first, and pulling the hub that way. I suppose if I get the Harbor freight kit, pull the hub first, then the bearing, I could then use the kit to press the new bearing on, and I won’t have to mess around going to a shop at all.
A couple of days ago, I headed out to take the wife to work, and noticed that the clutch pedal was getting pretty close to the floor before the clutch released. I figured it was fluid loss, so when I got her to work, I stopped in WalMart and picked up some brake fluid to fill it up, I then went looking for a leak. It didn’t take long for me to spot quite a bit of fluid on the rubber hose beneath the air intake tube. I piked up a new hose from the parts store, then headed home and looked up this video, which I remembered watching a while back.
After going through the video, I went back outside and inspected the master cylinder up under the dash. Sure enough, there was some brake fluid there as well. Another trip to the parts store, and I came home with both the master, and slave cylinders.
Sure enough the video was right on the mark, the biggest problem I had was getting that stubborn cotter pin out. Mine came out in pieces, but with a pair of needle nose vice grips, and a pick, I did finally manage to get the bugger out.
The only other difficulty I had was with the line fitting down on the master. Mine was corroded on there pretty good, and even with a flare nut wrench, the corners were giving way before it finally popped lose. Took plenty of penetrating oil. One note, on ABS equipped cars, there is a control module there. Remove it, disconnect the three wiring harness plugs, and use a bungee or some string to pull the three plugs up toward the wiper arm and hold them out of the way.
Much thanks for the video, the whole system is new now, and all the old cruddy fluid has been flushed out and replaced with nice clean DOT3 fluid. Should have a couple hundred thousand more miles in it now lol.
A couple of days ago, I headed out to take the wife to work, and noticed that the clutch pedal was getting pretty close to the floor before the clutch released. I figured it was fluid loss, so when I got her to work, I stopped in WalMart and picked up some brake fluid to fill it up, I then went looking for a leak. It didn’t take long for me to spot quite a bit of fluid on the rubber hose beneath the air intake tube. I piked up a new hose from the parts store, then headed home and looked up this video, which I remembered watching a while back.
After going through the video, I went back outside and inspected the master cylinder up under the dash. Sure enough, there was some brake fluid there as well. Another trip to the parts store, and I came home with both the master, and slave cylinders.
Sure enough the video was right on the mark, the biggest problem I had was getting that stubborn cotter pin out. Mine came out in pieces, but with a pair of needle nose vice grips, and a pick, I did finally manage to get the bugger out.
The only other difficulty I had was with the line fitting down on the master. Mine was corroded on there pretty good, and even with a flare nut wrench, the corners were giving way before it finally popped lose. Took plenty of penetrating oil. One note, on ABS equipped cars, there is a control module there. Remove it, disconnect the three wiring harness plugs, and use a bungee or some string to pull the three plugs up toward the wiper arm and hold them out of the way.
Much thanks for the video, the whole system is new now, and all the old cruddy fluid has been flushed out and replaced with nice clean DOT3 fluid. Should have a couple hundred thousand more miles in it now lol.