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I am a sticker for details, especially when we are talking about electronics.
I don’t recall the OP mentioning anything about WHICH PIN on that relay was getting power with the key off.
OP, where did you measure that 12V with the key off? Was it at the clutch hub, or at one of the pins in the relay socket?
Unless you all are reading that wiring diagram differently than I am, pin #2 on the compressor clutch relay is getting a constant 12V via fuse 1(20A)in the under hood fuse box. That 12V will be present with the key off. Pin #3 gets a 12V signal with the key in the on position via fuse #14 (10A) in the under dash fuse box. Though it doesn’t show the rest of the diagram here, I will assume that pin #4 is grounded when the AC switch is on. Pin #1 is 12V out to the compressor clutch. If there is 12V at pin #4 with the key off, then there is a problem. 12V at pin #2 with the key off is normal though.
I am a sticker for details, especially when we are talking about electronics.
I don’t recall the OP mentioning anything about WHICH PIN on that relay was getting power with the key off.
OP, where did you measure that 12V with the key off? Was it at the clutch hub, or at one of the pins in the relay socket?
Unless you all are reading that wiring diagram differently than I am, pin #2 on the compressor clutch relay is getting a constant 12V via fuse 1(20A)in the under hood fuse box. That 12V will be present with the key off. Pin #3 gets a 12V signal with the key in the on position via fuse #14 (10A) in the under dash fuse box. Though it doesn’t show the rest of the diagram here, I will assume that pin #4 is grounded when the AC switch is on. Pin #1 is 12V out to the compressor clutch. If there is 12V at pin #4 with the key off, then there is a problem. 12V at pin #2 with the key off is normal though.
I’ll give a third to using a pry bar to just move the drive shaft forward a bit. The yoke has some room to move into the tail of the transmission. That bit you move it forward should give you enough wiggle room to finish getting those bolts out.
I’ll give a third to using a pry bar to just move the drive shaft forward a bit. The yoke has some room to move into the tail of the transmission. That bit you move it forward should give you enough wiggle room to finish getting those bolts out.
If you don’t remember the last time you changed the fuel filter. . . I would go ahead and do that. It may or may not be the problem but often fuel filters are A problem, as they get overlooked, so it isn’t a bad idea to rule that out.
If you don’t remember the last time you changed the fuel filter. . . I would go ahead and do that. It may or may not be the problem but often fuel filters are A problem, as they get overlooked, so it isn’t a bad idea to rule that out.
I don’t have a manual for the ’93 handy, but I do have a ’94 manual, and the wire colors in the distributor are the same, so I am guessing that the testing procedure is the same. Are you absolutely certain you know how to use your volt meter?
Test between the battery terminals and make certain that you are getting 12 volts. Also test between the positive battery terminal, and what ever you are using for body ground when testing the distributor, and make certain you are again seeing a full 12v. That “body ground” has to be clean metal on the engine or body. If there is rust, oxidation, paint, etc. then you will not get an accurate voltage reading.
With cap and rotor removed, and the wiring disconnected from the Ignition Control Module. Between the blue wire and ground, you should get full battery voltage (12V). If there is not 12v there, you either have a bad coil, or a break in the blue wire between the ignition coil, and the Ignition Control Module. Test the blue wire for continuity, then test the ignition coil.
Between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground you should get 12v. If not, check for continuity in the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch, and the Ignition Control Module.
Some of those tests don’t sound right at all to me though. You should test, in this order:
1 BLK/YEL to body ground for 12v
2 BLU to body ground for 12v
3 continuity in the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and ICM
4 continuity in the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICMIf all tests are normal, then the ICM has failed.
I don’t have a manual for the ’93 handy, but I do have a ’94 manual, and the wire colors in the distributor are the same, so I am guessing that the testing procedure is the same. Are you absolutely certain you know how to use your volt meter?
Test between the battery terminals and make certain that you are getting 12 volts. Also test between the positive battery terminal, and what ever you are using for body ground when testing the distributor, and make certain you are again seeing a full 12v. That “body ground” has to be clean metal on the engine or body. If there is rust, oxidation, paint, etc. then you will not get an accurate voltage reading.
With cap and rotor removed, and the wiring disconnected from the Ignition Control Module. Between the blue wire and ground, you should get full battery voltage (12V). If there is not 12v there, you either have a bad coil, or a break in the blue wire between the ignition coil, and the Ignition Control Module. Test the blue wire for continuity, then test the ignition coil.
Between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground you should get 12v. If not, check for continuity in the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch, and the Ignition Control Module.
Some of those tests don’t sound right at all to me though. You should test, in this order:
1 BLK/YEL to body ground for 12v
2 BLU to body ground for 12v
3 continuity in the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and ICM
4 continuity in the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICMIf all tests are normal, then the ICM has failed.
Brakes first and foremost. It won’t matter a hill of beans what kind of mileage the car gets if you kill yourself in it.
Bad fuel economy can be any number of things. I picked up nearly 8 miles per gallon by fixing a stripped out exhaust manifold stud hole.
Once you have taken care of the brakes, check (and replace if necessary) the air filter, spark plugs, cap / rotor (if you car has them) and wires. If there are any diagnostic codes, find out what they are, and fix what needs to be fixed. Once that is all done, report back on what your mileage is.
Brakes first and foremost. It won’t matter a hill of beans what kind of mileage the car gets if you kill yourself in it.
Bad fuel economy can be any number of things. I picked up nearly 8 miles per gallon by fixing a stripped out exhaust manifold stud hole.
Once you have taken care of the brakes, check (and replace if necessary) the air filter, spark plugs, cap / rotor (if you car has them) and wires. If there are any diagnostic codes, find out what they are, and fix what needs to be fixed. Once that is all done, report back on what your mileage is.
Man, it has been a while since I worked on a carbed engine lol. Lemme blow some of the dust off my memory and see if I can help you with this one.
If I recall correctly, you don’t want PCV at idle, you want it above idle. Manifold vacuum will be highest at idle, giving you a signal then. So, I’m going to say that PCV should be attached to a vacuum port that is above the throttle blades in your carb so that it is getting vacuum only when the throttle is open.
Man, it has been a while since I worked on a carbed engine lol. Lemme blow some of the dust off my memory and see if I can help you with this one.
If I recall correctly, you don’t want PCV at idle, you want it above idle. Manifold vacuum will be highest at idle, giving you a signal then. So, I’m going to say that PCV should be attached to a vacuum port that is above the throttle blades in your carb so that it is getting vacuum only when the throttle is open.
Get a helicoil kit. Drill them out to the proper size for the helicoil, tap new threads, place inserts, and bolt it back together like normal.
Get a helicoil kit. Drill them out to the proper size for the helicoil, tap new threads, place inserts, and bolt it back together like normal.
I picked up a new torque wrench today, set it to 80 lbs / ft, and went over the lug nuts on my car. Several of them were below the 80 mark, even though my old wrench had been set to 85 the last time I torqued them. That is confirmation enough for me that the wrench was indeed out of calibration.
With having to do the wheel bearings soon, and needing to remove the rocker assembly to do plug tube seals, I am very much glad I went ahead and go the new wrench. I hate to think of the carnage that might have happened had I torqued that rocker assembly down with the old wrench :ohmy: