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Ok. So, what you need to do at this point, is follow that wire back through the harness, doing two things. First, looking for any obvious damage to it, and 2nd, testing along the way for power in it. It is very likely that you will find a spot where that wire has managed to rub against something, and is cut either entirely through, or enough to have gotten wet and corroded, or short into something else, but it is also possible that you will find a plug the wire goes through, where it is losing power due to a bad connection in the plug.
Ok. So, what you need to do at this point, is follow that wire back through the harness, doing two things. First, looking for any obvious damage to it, and 2nd, testing along the way for power in it. It is very likely that you will find a spot where that wire has managed to rub against something, and is cut either entirely through, or enough to have gotten wet and corroded, or short into something else, but it is also possible that you will find a plug the wire goes through, where it is losing power due to a bad connection in the plug.
There is a surprise . . . . a nearly new car that was in a flood, and it’s having electrical issues. You are going to have no end of trouble with that vehicle. Everything you have mentioned I would expect is probably controlled by the body control module. That would be my first suspect, but just general corrosion in any one of a hundred different wiring connections could just as easily be to blame. I fear, you are in for a bunch of headaches with that vehicle.
There is a surprise . . . . a nearly new car that was in a flood, and it’s having electrical issues. You are going to have no end of trouble with that vehicle. Everything you have mentioned I would expect is probably controlled by the body control module. That would be my first suspect, but just general corrosion in any one of a hundred different wiring connections could just as easily be to blame. I fear, you are in for a bunch of headaches with that vehicle.
I’ve always been under the impression that lug nuts should be installed, and torqued to spec DRY with no lubrication.
However, removing the lug nuts to be certain that they aren’t seized on there tighter than tight is a good idea. So is removing the wheel to be sure it isn’t seized to the hub. If it is stuck, cleaning the hub area with a wire brush, and applying a bit of anti seize to the hub flange before reinstalling the wheel will help keep that from happening again.
While the wheel is off, you have a fantastic opportunity to properly inspect upper, and lower ball joints, outer tie rod end, CV boot, and the brakes.
Also check the condition of your belts (look for significant cracking or glazing on the side that contacts the pulley) and hoses (squeeze them, feeling for soft, mushy areas. The hoses should be firm, and should spring back to shape quickly when you release them) and replace anything that is suspect.
Have a free charging system / battery test done, and also check, and clean / tighten as necessary, the battery terminals.
I’ve always been under the impression that lug nuts should be installed, and torqued to spec DRY with no lubrication.
However, removing the lug nuts to be certain that they aren’t seized on there tighter than tight is a good idea. So is removing the wheel to be sure it isn’t seized to the hub. If it is stuck, cleaning the hub area with a wire brush, and applying a bit of anti seize to the hub flange before reinstalling the wheel will help keep that from happening again.
While the wheel is off, you have a fantastic opportunity to properly inspect upper, and lower ball joints, outer tie rod end, CV boot, and the brakes.
Also check the condition of your belts (look for significant cracking or glazing on the side that contacts the pulley) and hoses (squeeze them, feeling for soft, mushy areas. The hoses should be firm, and should spring back to shape quickly when you release them) and replace anything that is suspect.
Have a free charging system / battery test done, and also check, and clean / tighten as necessary, the battery terminals.
Could you describe for me the exact procedure you followed to test the socket for continuity? Also, exactly how you went about testing for voltage on the red / blk wire. I just want to make absolutely certain what your results mean before I give you an answer.
Could you describe for me the exact procedure you followed to test the socket for continuity? Also, exactly how you went about testing for voltage on the red / blk wire. I just want to make absolutely certain what your results mean before I give you an answer.
[quote=”dmpi1719″ post=114962]Also, the relay has 4 pins. The control pins are 85 and 86. Using a test light I confirmed that 86 is the ground. I connected the test light to a known hot point, and then connected it to pin 85 and when I turned the key to on it lighted.[/quote]
Ok, here is what happened when you ran this test. You had 12v + going into your test light. The other side of your test light was connected to pin 85, which connects to a small coil of wire (the windings of a small electro-magnet) and then to pin 86 which supplies ground, so your test light is getting the 12v+ that you’ve connected it to, and ground through pin 86, but you aren’t proving anything about pin 85 this way. Connect your test light to pin 85, and ground, and then turn on the key. IF the test light comes on then, you know you are getting a signal at the relay to power the fuel pump. In that case, you need to test your relay, and then verify the wiring between the relay and fuel pump. If the test light does NOT come on, then you need to check for issues between the relay, and the ECU.
[quote=”dmpi1719″ post=114962]The power side is 30 and 87. I also checked pin 87 and discovered it is always hot. I then tried jumping 30 and 87 to see if the pump came on but it did not. The jump wire (paper clip) got hot but no power to the pump.[/quote]
Ok, with this in mind, you need to look for problems in the wiring between the relay, and the fuel pump. Look for damage to the wiring harness somewhere. Disconnect the wiring at the fuel pump, pull the relay out, and test for resistance to ground on pin 30. With the fuel pump disconnected, there should be NO continuity to ground. If there is, find the short. If there isn’t, look at the wiring between that last connector, and the pump it’s self.
[quote=”dmpi1719″ post=114962]Also, the relay has 4 pins. The control pins are 85 and 86. Using a test light I confirmed that 86 is the ground. I connected the test light to a known hot point, and then connected it to pin 85 and when I turned the key to on it lighted.[/quote]
Ok, here is what happened when you ran this test. You had 12v + going into your test light. The other side of your test light was connected to pin 85, which connects to a small coil of wire (the windings of a small electro-magnet) and then to pin 86 which supplies ground, so your test light is getting the 12v+ that you’ve connected it to, and ground through pin 86, but you aren’t proving anything about pin 85 this way. Connect your test light to pin 85, and ground, and then turn on the key. IF the test light comes on then, you know you are getting a signal at the relay to power the fuel pump. In that case, you need to test your relay, and then verify the wiring between the relay and fuel pump. If the test light does NOT come on, then you need to check for issues between the relay, and the ECU.
[quote=”dmpi1719″ post=114962]The power side is 30 and 87. I also checked pin 87 and discovered it is always hot. I then tried jumping 30 and 87 to see if the pump came on but it did not. The jump wire (paper clip) got hot but no power to the pump.[/quote]
Ok, with this in mind, you need to look for problems in the wiring between the relay, and the fuel pump. Look for damage to the wiring harness somewhere. Disconnect the wiring at the fuel pump, pull the relay out, and test for resistance to ground on pin 30. With the fuel pump disconnected, there should be NO continuity to ground. If there is, find the short. If there isn’t, look at the wiring between that last connector, and the pump it’s self.
Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. Also check the master, lines, and slave for signs of leakage, BUT . .. . if it is shifting through all the other gears properly, I don’t suspect any issues with the clutch. Perhaps you need to be looking at the shift mechanism to make sure nothing is binding up, and then . . .at the transmission, since your problem is ONLY with reverse.
Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. Also check the master, lines, and slave for signs of leakage, BUT . .. . if it is shifting through all the other gears properly, I don’t suspect any issues with the clutch. Perhaps you need to be looking at the shift mechanism to make sure nothing is binding up, and then . . .at the transmission, since your problem is ONLY with reverse.