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Test battery voltage with the engine running. I suspect you will find something significantly higher than the 14 or so volts that should be there. At that point, I would say have the alternator tested OFF the vehicle to determine if the problem is the alternator it’s self, or a wiring issue caused by the radio install.
You know the motor mount is bad. It may, or may not have anything to do with the problem at hand, but I would go ahead and take care of that.
Is it possible that it IS a bearing, but not the wheel bearing? Perhaps you are hearing a bearing in the transmission beginning to fail?
You need to do a parasitic draw test. There is a circuit in your car that is drawing more power than it should when the car is off. The parasitic draw test will help you to determine which circuit the problem is in, then you can troubleshoot the circuit and figure out exactly what is causing the problem.
I’m a bit confused, did the flange break off the catalytic converter, or did it break off the pipe BEHIND the converter?
Tin can = not worth the effort it takes to put it in there.
For a quick repair, I would try to find a short bit of pipe just a bit smaller around that the existing one that you can beat into it, then I would weld the flange back onto that new bit of pipe, and bolt it all back together, with a wide band style clamp holding the old pipe onto the new bit that you beat into it. Of course, this requires having access to a welder, but it is probably about the best temporary fix you can do on the cheap.
I don’t see anything in your description that screams out failing transmission to me.
The hesitation when accelerating could be a problem, but it doesn’t necessarily mean the transmission is failing. I might be tempted to drain the fluid, and change the transmission filter, then refill with OEM fluid. I might also think about testing the shift solenoids which could cause that issue.
As for the vibrations, I would be more inclined to inspect the steering components for excess play, and the CV joints, which can cause all kinds of shaking when they are loose enough. Might not be a bad idea to give the engine mounts a good once over too, looking for torn / rotted rubber.
I would certainly suggest diagnostics and making certain that you KNOW what the problem is before spending money rebuilding / repairing / replacing the transmission.
It sounds to me like a vacuum leak.
Honda engines do a pretty good job of compensating for extra air, but I’ve had many an engine run like complete but at idle, including stalling and failing to start due to large vacuum leaks, and this is exactly what your problem sounds like.
With the MAP sensor, the computer SHOULD be able to compensate for any extra air. I think, at this point I would want to verify proper, and consistent fuel pressure / flow, and then I might want to get a scan tool that does real time, and see if I could get a look at what is going on there.
You are quite welcome. Honestly, once you’ve done all the work to get the transmission loose, pulling it out isn’t that difficult.
The lead up work is significant though. You need to disconnect both lower ball joints, remove both drive shafts, remove the radius rod from the transmission side of the car (passengers side on 94 – 97’s) remove shift cables, unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and it’s hose / pipe and move it out of the way. You also need to remove the transmission mount, and part of the rear engine mount, as well as the starter and distributor. Plenty of stuff has to come apart!
Yes, that is the plan.
It has gotten pretty cold up here in New York the past week or so. I have no interest in going that far inside my engine working outside in 30 degree weather. The mechanic will install a new oil pump, then do the timing belts, water pump, and tensioners, and I should be good for another 90k miles 🙂
I’ve never done the job on a 2000, but done 94 – 97, and I don’t think it is significantly different. In order to replace the pressure plate, the transmission needs to come completely out of the clutch assembly, which means pulling the trans down and out of the car. This is the only way you have enough room to get to all the bolts that hold the pressure plate in place. Sorry, I know that wasn’t the answer you were hoping for, but it is the way it works.
Check fluid level, and see if there are bubbles in the reservoir indicating air getting into the system. If all is ok there, it is likely normal noise. Best advice I can give is to try not to hold the steering at the lock.
I’ve heard back from my mechanic. Indeed the timing belt had jumped teeth, approximately 5. Luckily, no damage was done to the valves. He has had the engine running, and says it runs fine.
He also says that the timing belt had been replaced at some point in the past. The problem apparently is that one of the bolts for the tensioner was sheered off, perhaps when the belt was replaced, or maybe something that happened later. Eventually, the tensioner slipped, and let the belt slacken up, and then the belt skipped teeth.
The biggest problem now I guess is that there is a broken bolt in the aluminum oil pump housing. Looks like the plan of attack is to replace the oil pump, new timing set with tensioners, and water pump, and put it all back together. Gonna cost me a few pennies, but a lot better than having bent valves!
After double checking all of my work, and taking a shot at the crank pulley bold with my impact gun (fail fail fail) I decided that November was not the time of year to be messing around with a job like this outside in New York. I had the car towed into a nearby, trusted mechanic a week ago. I just called now, looks like the head honcho there was working on it, but he’s out of the shop until later tonight, and no one else knows exactly where things stand, so I’ll call back later, and hopefully have some kind of update here shortly.
I took the crank through a full 360 degrees, when TDC mark on the crank pulley lines up, the cam is off by approximately 4 to 5 teeth, or it is off by nearly 180 degrees, so I saw it at both TDC of compression, and TDC of exhaust.
Before I dug into the cam timing, I though I had flooded it. I pulled the main relay, and cranked the hell out of it, then plugged the main relay back in. I got it to cough once, and then nothing. I pulled the plugs, they did smell of fuel, but they weren’t wet with it. I used a small magnetic parts tool to probe the cylinders, it didn’t come back wet either.
The cam timing / timing belt was pretty much the end of my troubleshooting. I first checked spark, then fuel pump priming, resoldered the main relay as that is such a common problem. I verified good fuel pressure at the fuel rail, and I then pulled an injector plug, and verified reference voltage, and injector pulse. I even tried starting it on a squirt of starting spray, which also failed to produce anything.
I can post up some pictures tomorrow, but I am pretty certain of the mechanical timing being off. I am also certain it was not that way when I shut the car down, as the engine was running smoothly, so it pretty well had to have happened when I was trying to start it after the bearing job was done.