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In my experience, if there isn’t a bunch of oil inside the distributor, and the main shaft doesn’t wiggle all over the place, then it is unlikely that there are any problems with it. It is likely any problems you are having with it not running smoothly are elsewhere.
Yes, you can unplug the ABS computer yourself. I’d show you what it looks like, but I no longer have an ABS equipped Accord.
I ran my last Accord (’94) with the ABS disconnected (instead of pulling the fuse, I unplugged the ABS computer which is in the passengers side foot well, behind the kick panel) for a bit over 2 years. It doesn’t cause any harm, won’t lessen the life of the brakes or anything else, and is exactly the same as driving a non ABS version of the car.
The labor to install a new ABS pump isn’t terribly bad, in most cases less than two hours work, but finding a good pump is going to be a challenge. Buying used isn’t advisable, as failures in these pumps are pretty common, and with the age of these cars, finding new, or re-manufactured units is getting difficult, and they aren’t cheap. Add in the fact that you will still likely need that right rear wheel speed sensor, and it adds up to a pile of cash.
Great job with the video, almost like being there to pull the codes myself 🙂
That is flashing two codes. The first code is 4 – 4 and the second is 1 – 8. 4 – 4 is wheel sensor right rear. That isn’t a big deal. The second code is high pressure system. To the best of my knowledge, the only way to fix that is to replace the entire ABS pump. That is likely an expensive proposition.
The good news is, the ABS is kind of an add on for the 94 – 97 Accords. If you pull the fuse, the ABS light will go off, and the brakes will work exactly like a non ABS car would.
Have you checked for voltage, and ground at the fuel pump? That would be a decent place to start. The fuel pump circuit is pretty simple, which means pretty easy to troubleshoot. If the problems are related, then simply diagnosing the fuel pump will lead you to correct both problems. If they are unrelated, then at least you will have fuel, and you can move on to diagnosing the spark issue.
G101 is indeed on the thermostat housing. I believe if that ground has failed, your main relay won’t get ground, and won’t work. It is certainly worth checking it though.
I asked about the CV shaft because the reluctor ring is part of the CV shaft, and it is possible to get a non ABS CV shaft, and install it into an ABS car, which will cause that particular wheels speed sensor to not work. Changing the upper control arm / ball joint assembly, and inner / outer tie rod ends shouldn’t cause any problems, though the outer tie rod end is fairly close to the location of the wheel speed sensor, so it is possible that a slip with a hammer, pickle fork, or pry bar could cause damage to the sensor.
If you can, post that video up so we can have a look at it. Sometimes knowing what to expect helps you to understand what you are seeing. I’ve pulled ABS codes a few times on these cars, so I know what they look like.
Just to clarify, with the ABS light, you aren’t looking for short and long flashes. What you are looking for is one short flash, then a long pause, this tells you that the system is ready, then a series of short flashes which indicate the first digit of the code, then another pause, then another series of short flashes that indicate the second digit of the code. So, if there was a pause between the third flash, and the fourth flash, that would make your code 3-1, which would be the passengers side front sensor.
If the ABS light stays out as long as the car is still, and only comes on after the car is moving, then the issue is with one of the wheel speed sensors. However, the codes for those would be 4-1 4-2 etc.
If you have a multi meter, you can check the signal on each wheel speed sensor with the wheel jacked up, while spinning it by hand, and identify the one that is causing the problem.
I’ve never seen any code from a CD5 Accord that didn’t have 2 digits. Like perhaps you had 3 flashes, then a pause, then 1 flash?
Let me ask you this: When you first start the car, before you move it, does the ABS light come on for a second and then go out? If so, does it then come on as soon as you start moving the car?
There are two switches that control the fans. You will need to get a manual, or search online to find their locations. Try disconnecting them, one at a time, and see which one turns off the fans. Once you know which switch is the problem, replace it.
This sounds like it is just an old, tired engine. You might get away with running a bit higher viscosity oil for a while, which should allow the engine to build more oil pressure. This is just a crutch though, and in the long term, if you want to keep the vehicle, you will need to either rebuild the engine, or replace it.
Most of my experience with Honda engines is the 94 – 97 model, but I’m assuming that the 93 is pretty similar.
The distributor actually has several seals. One is internal. When it is leaking, oil leaks INSIDE the distributor, and eventually drips out from where the cap meets the distributor body.
That seal is no longer available from Honda, but can be found in the aftermarket. I know parts train sells it, and I’m about 99% certain that your 93 uses the same seal as the 94 – 97 engine. It is part number W0133-1640599 and sells for around 20 with shipping.
I have also seen the oil pressure switch (turns on the oil warning light) leak a lot of these engines. It is on the back side of the engine, between the block and the firewall, up above the oil filter. An oil leak there will generally run down the back of the engine, and drip off the back of the oil pan directly onto the exhaust system where it will burn off, and smoke like crazy.
The switch is readily available pretty much everywhere, and isn’t terribly expensive. My only warning is that the ones you buy from Auto Zone for like $13 are garbage, and are very likely to either leak again, or turn your oil light on for no reason, so you might want to buy from Honda, or at least get a good brand name from aftermarket, and not go with the Auto Zone piece. It should be pretty easy with a flash light to get under there and see if there is oil coming from that switch.
Mine was sticking very high, and very low. After a bit, I took notice of the fact that when I gave the engine full throttle, it would clean up and run great. At full throttle, it is in open loop, not paying attention to the O2. This strongly pointed me in the direction of something with the O2, it’s wiring, or the ECU.
From there, I unplugged the O2, forcing the computer into open loop, and the car ran fine like that. A little low on power from running too rich, but no issues with how it drove. At that point, I was pretty positive the problem was in that system. Knowing that it was probably a 20 year old O2 sensor, and it had an aftermarket extension on the wiring, I went for those two things first. Checked the wiring, and made repairs as necessary, though it didn’t appear that there was enough damage to the wiring to cause any shorts, but I made sure of it. That didn’t fix the problem, so I swapped in a new OEM O2 sensor, figuring that the one that was there wasn’t good, even if it wasn’t the problem. Turned out that was the whole issue.
There are ways to test the O2, and it’s wiring, but in general, I’d say if the O2 is more than a couple of years old, you probably aren’t wasting money to replace it with a new OEM unit, even if that doesn’t turn out to be your problem.
With the readings sticking high, or low for any real period of time, I would be suspect of the sensor though.
I can’t see any reason why the device you are using would have any effect on the readings, other than perhaps to impart a slight delay in real time displays.
I use a generic ELM bluetooth adapter with either my Galaxy note4 phone, or my Lenova tablet, and have not noticed any difference in readings between the two devices.
I had some crazy fuel trims on my Accord, going as high as +30, and as low as nearly -50 combined. Had NO check engine light, though I did have performance issues. Turned out to be a bad O2 sensor, so you might want to look at what that is doing when you get those changes in fuel trim.